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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / September 2006

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Pink Stuff Dillution?

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Dan Listermann - 18 Sep 2006 21:20 GMT
Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see that
standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
Sunseeker a couple of times a month all year round so the cost of pink stuff
is a consideration.  How much can this stuff be diluted and still be
effective at zero?   Since the Sunseeker has an arctic option, I won't need
to have stuff in the holding tanks.  I intend to use the stuff as a water
rinse, blowing it out after it displaces the water and recollecting it. This
way my losses per winterization should be limited a bit more than the need
to protect the three traps.  Am I barking up the right tree?

Dan
Will Sill - 18 Sep 2006 22:32 GMT
I see where "Dan Listermann" <dan@listermann.com> contributed:
>Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see that
>standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>way my losses per winterization should be limited a bit more than the need
>to protect the three traps.  Am I barking up the right tree?

Wrong tree.  If you winterize properly, it will cost you less than $5.

To winterize *most* rigs the right way:

DRAIN water tank & water heater

BYBASS water heater

CONNECT pump inlet via hose to jug of pink stuff (use tee/valve)

PUMP AF into pipes 'til it comes outa faucets (and shower, toilet)

DUMP holding tanks

For more detailed, illustrated winterizing information see
Les Doll's Painless Winterizing, at The RVer's Corner,
<http://www.rverscorner.com/articles/painless.html>.

In very mild climates you can get away without winterizing at all.
Some get by using compressed air, a few by just draining.   But
if you want to be fairly sure of NEVER having to fix split plumbing
parts, the above system is as easy and foolproof as we know about.

NOTE:   When "un-winterizing", flush the pipes with water BEFORE
placing WH bypass valves back to normal.

Will Sill
The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill
MoParMaN - 18 Sep 2006 23:15 GMT
> Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see
> that standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Dan

I thought this thread was about the shitty Cincinnati Chili with cinnamon in
it>>>>>>

BARF,,BARPH,,,

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MoParMaN---Remove Clothes To Reply
--SCUD Coordinates 32.61204 North: 96.92993 West--

William Boyd - 19 Sep 2006 02:24 GMT
>  
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
>  

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BILL P.
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Me
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Jon Porter - 19 Sep 2006 03:29 GMT
>> Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see
>> that standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> than the need to protect the three traps.  Am I barking up the right
>> tree?

My own experience with blowing water out of the pipes is that something
always remains.I'm in the middle of the state and I don't dilute the stuff
at all. Cost is not a real factor with the pink stuff for me because it can
be had for under $4 per gallon. In my case, it takes less than a gallon to
fill the pipes. Your trailer might only need a gallon, surely less than two
to fill the pipes. The pink stuff is very cheap insurance, and because the
cost is so little I don't consider it worth the bother of trying to save for
reuse.

One factor to consider in reusing the saved stuff is contamination,  which
is something that you definitely don't want in your plumbing. Diluting with
water could contribute to that (bacteria growth), and dilution would
increase every time you run it through the plumbing because the pink stuff
displaces the water that is still in there.
Signature

Jon
JPinOH

William Boyd - 19 Sep 2006 14:45 GMT
>>    
>>
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>displaces the water that is still in there.
>  

There are several things that can be obtained in the performance of
winterization. Some of them are shown here.
http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalog/page?index=A&pageNext=TRUE&dealerId=7&page
Num=387


The water heater by pass is a must, and completely draining it is also
necessary. I use the air blow-out first,
just to get the water out of the system. If the temperature is just
expected to be threatening the freezing point,
that is all I do for the fresh water system, provided I intend on
keeping heat on the rig. I insure all black and grey tanks are drained,
then I add enough of the pink stuff to get it down to the dump valves.
Instructions on my brand of the pink stuff said do not dilute, and it is
good to -50.
If I were to completely winterize, I would blow the water out of the
system and use the water pump and siphon kit to pump the pink stuff in
to the system. By blowing the water out it saves on the amount of
antifreeze required, and insures you do not dilute it.
If all the water is blown out of the system, you may need some help in
priming the pump to pick up the pink stuff.
There is one line that has been neglected in all the procedures for
winterizing. That is the supply line between the tank and the pump. In
most cases the quickest way is to insure the tank is empty, drain valve
open, disconnect the line from the pump and blow air in it. Note a small
amount of water will come out the tank drain.
If you have a filter in your system I would remove it. Unless you use
the air blow out, the water in the city water connector will stay in
that line and freeze.

The best way is to go SOUTH with the BIRDS!

Signature

BILL P.
Just
Me
&
DOG

Dan Listermann - 19 Sep 2006 13:55 GMT
> I thought this thread was about the shitty Cincinnati Chili with cinnamon
> in it>>>>>>
>
> BARF,,BARPH,,,

Cincy Chili screams "HOME" to me!

Dan
Steve - 18 Sep 2006 23:38 GMT
Thanks to you, I know expect a record cold spell in Cincy this year :P~

If you really plan on using the rig during the winter, skip the pink stuff.
Buy a blow-out plug ($1.98 from CW). You can hook up your tire pump
(electric is recommended) and blow all the water out of the lines. When you
want to fire the camper back up, no flushing is required, just turn on the
water and go. Be sure to open all the drain lines (the red and blue capped
tubes hanging out from under the RV) and also drain the hot water heater by
removing the anode rod. You should also buy a jug or two of the pink stuff
to poor in the drains so the traps don't freeze.

Steve

P.S.: now I know who ownw the Sunseeker I see on I-275 every once in a
while.

> Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see that
> standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Dan
Jon Porter - 19 Sep 2006 04:05 GMT
> Thanks to you, I know expect a record cold spell in Cincy this year :P~
>
> If you really plan on using the rig during the winter, skip the pink
> stuff.
> Buy a blow-out plug ($1.98 from CW). You can hook up your tire pump
> (electric is recommended) and blow all the water out of the lines.

I tried that once. A half hour later, water was still spitting and spraying
out of the faucet. No way was compressed air ever going to remove all of the
water.

The way I set up my Class B, winterizing takes about ten minutes. I set the
bypass at the water heater and over the bypass at the water pump for the
siphon hose. That siphon is a kit that installed between the water tank and
the pump. A turn of the lever selects either one. The end of the siphon hose
goes down into the jug of pink stuff. Turn on the pump, open each faucet in
turn until the pink stuff comes out, and make sure to operate the toilt
flush as well.

All done, and I've used 3 quarts of pink stuff.

I then open up the low point drains to let the pink stuff out because it has
done it's job, which is to displace the water in the pipes. Ne need to leave
it there and it makes unwinterizing a snap because all I need to do is fill
the water tank. A cup full of pink might come out of the faucet the first
time it's opened up.
Signature

Jon
JPinOH

--
Jon
JPinOH

Dan Listermann - 19 Sep 2006 13:58 GMT
> P.S.: now I know who ownw the Sunseeker I see on I-275 every once in a
> while.

Not me just yet.  We just picked it up Thursday!

Dan
HD in NY - 19 Sep 2006 01:07 GMT
> Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see that
> standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Dan

Pink stuff is so cheap and so little is required to winterize, I see
no reason to try and collect the diluted stuff for reuse. JMHO.
Hugh
Kevin - 19 Sep 2006 01:14 GMT
Cincy weather is unpredictable at best!!! Head to Wally World and buy a few
gallons of anti-freeze. That cost versus new faucets or lines or valves will
be worth it! Just like changing the oil in your engine, it's cheap
insurance! Unless, of course, you just enjoy making life hard on
yourself........

> Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see
> that standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Dan
dmartin@newarts.com - 22 Sep 2006 12:21 GMT
> Here in Cincy it rarely gets much below zero degrees Fahrenheit.  I see that
> standard pink stuff is good for 25 below.  We expect to use our new
> Sunseeker a couple of times a month all year round so the cost of pink stuff
> is a consideration.  How much can this stuff be diluted and still be
> effective at zero?

25 below zero is 57 degrees below freezing. Zero is 32 degrees below
freezing (a little more than half as much freezing point depression).
Therefore a ratio of a little less than 1:1 should be sufficient to
protect down to zero. You'll be safe with 2 parts pink + 1 part fresh.

I wouldn't bother because the stuff is pretty inexpensive & you'll
likely need less than a gallon.

I find it easier to buy a jug of pink stuff when I need it rather than
to recover and store it for re-use. I actually set up a few containers
for recovery and storage but actually doing the recovery and storage
was more of a pain than just stopping at Walmart.
Dan Listermann - 22 Sep 2006 13:49 GMT
> 25 below zero is 57 degrees below freezing. Zero is 32 degrees below
> freezing (a little more than half as much freezing point depression).
> Therefore a ratio of a little less than 1:1 should be sufficient to
> protect down to zero. You'll be safe with 2 parts pink + 1 part fresh.

These things are probably not linear.  I suppose a little test is in order.

> I wouldn't bother because the stuff is pretty inexpensive & you'll
> likely need less than a gallon.

At $4 a throw, this would be true if I were to only winterizing a few times
a year.  I expect that we will use the motorhome about twice a month just
about all year round so this could add up.  And then there is the bother of
buying and stocking to consider.
dmartin@newarts.com - 23 Sep 2006 20:47 GMT
> > 25 below zero is 57 degrees below freezing. Zero is 32 degrees below
> > freezing (a little more than half as much freezing point depression).
> > Therefore a ratio of a little less than 1:1 should be sufficient to
> > protect down to zero. You'll be safe with 2 parts pink + 1 part fresh.
>
> These things are probably not linear.  I suppose a little test is in order.

Actually, I made a graph. These things tend to be linear when plotted
as ratios rather than percents. See: http://www.newarts.com/antifreeze/

In my message I hedged quite a bit by saying 2 parts pink to 1 part
water & 50:50 is ok according to the data.

Dave

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