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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / October 2006

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To paint...or not to paint...that is the question!?

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temp@texter.org.uk - 24 Sep 2006 04:01 GMT
OK....as most stories go, this one started out pretty good! But quickly
went down hill!

I've ( been coerced into ) started an Class B RV renovation project.
For the most part, I have things under partial control, mostly.

Now comes the body. I have been spending weeks trying to find a website
that can show me RV paint jobs that are a little more exciting than
"white with the pretty decal in the side", or "white with the solid
bottom color", or "white on white with white detailing"!!!!!!!!!

Someone, somewhere has to have a beutiful RV painted some other color
than WHITE!!!!

Being from Arizona, I know why light colors are prefered. But that's
why AIR CONDITIONING WAS INVENTED!!!

Can anyone tell me where to find examples?

BTW....if "silver" is nothing but "dark white", if that's the best ya
got...please don't bother!

Thank you for your help

:)
b b - 24 Sep 2006 16:54 GMT
> Someone, somewhere has to have a beutiful RV painted some other color
> than WHITE!!!!
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> BTW....if "silver" is nothing but "dark white", if that's the best ya
> got...please don't bother!

I would NEVER want an RV painted other than white.  I look at the
difference between the white top sides and the pale blue lower storage
panel doors of my 99 Seabreeze one year after waxing.  There is just no
comparison between the amount of oxidation nor the effort required to
bring the two colors back to a gloss...the blue looks MUCH worse to
start, takes three times the effort to wax, and the blue never looks as
good afterwards either.

There may be a good reason the majority of coaches continue to be
painted "boring" white....

But now that you know you're free to decide for yourself...  :-)

My opinion,
Barrie B
Don Bradner - 24 Sep 2006 22:58 GMT
>Can anyone tell me where to find examples?

Are you only looking for Class B examples? Lots of Class As and bus
conversions are painted every which way you can imagine. You can see
mine here: http://www.arcatapet.net/travel/images/montana/p5132757.jpg
Signature

Don Bradner
donb (not don) at arcatapet.com
Posting today by Satellite from
Kutztown, PA

RAM³ - 25 Sep 2006 04:16 GMT
temp@texter.org.uk wrote in news:1159066894.375643.184520
@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com:

> OK....as most stories go, this one started out pretty good! But quickly
> went down hill!
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
>:)

What are your favorite colors? Use those!

Silver, BTW, as a "color" is exemplified by polished Chrome. (An excellent
top-of-the-roof color!)

Unless you're renovating solely with an eye to resale, let your imigination
run wild - just remember that "everyone" will associate it with YOU. <G>
temp@texter.org.uk - 26 Sep 2006 10:21 GMT
Thanks for the comments!

Oxidation was first on my mind. My metalic-light-blue truck didn't fair
the Arizona desert well. However, $100 to a body shop soon had the
paint looking better than new. I think I could handle an expense like
that every 8-10 years.

As for favorite colors. Now there's a can of worms! Somehow managing a
decent color scheme using blue's and maroon's (my favorites) with
green's and blacks is within the normal powers of a re-sprayer! I'd
need guru like Chip Foose!

Now there's and idea! "Overhaul my RV!"

In the mean time, I'll keep looking ;)
Randy G. - 27 Sep 2006 00:53 GMT
>Thanks for the comments!
>
>Oxidation was first on my mind. My metalic-light-blue truck didn't fair
>the Arizona desert well. However, $100 to a body shop soon had the
>paint looking better than new. I think I could handle an expense like
>that every 8-10 years.

I am about to 'paint' the roof of my '90 almond Airex... white.

But I have been wanting to re-stripe it. What I did to help decide on
stripe colors was to take a photo of the RV and in photoshop I removed
the stripe but first I made a copy if it in another layer. Now I have
the image where I can easily change the different stripes to other
colors to see what it would look like. Try that and see what you like
for yourself.

 From Randy & Val
1990 30' Rexhal Airex
dmartin@newarts.com - 28 Sep 2006 04:01 GMT
> OK....as most stories go, this one started out pretty good! But quickly
> went down hill!
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> Someone, somewhere has to have a beutiful RV painted some other color
> than WHITE!!!!

I recently painted my camper Woodland Green (34094)  to blend with the
eastern forests where I camp.
http://www.newarts.com/images/GreenCamper.jpg

While this paint looks very dark it is not as far as absorbing solar
radiation is concerned.

The common wisdom about dark colors getting hot in the sun is generally
true but there are exceptions that have to do with details of
absorption and emission in parts of the sun's spectrum we can't see.
Trees for example don't get hot in the sun; they reflect the sun's
infra-red radiation rather than absorb it.
See: http://www.newarts.com/images/ISU-IR.jpg

The above is a link to an Infra-red photo of the Iowa State University
campus in sunlight. Notice that the trees are bright, indicating they
are reflecting the sunlight; the roof on the tower is dark because it
is absorbing sunlight (it looks light green to a human eye.)

See: http://www.shepherdcolor.com/innovation/ this website describes
some pigments that look dark to us but don't heat in the sun.
temp@texter.org.uk - 03 Oct 2006 23:36 GMT
> I recently painted my camper Woodland Green (34094)  to blend with the
> eastern forests where I camp.
> http://www.newarts.com/images/GreenCamper.jpg

That is definately an intresting paint scheme! Although, being
ex-military, a "militaristic" look is not for me.

I have found several "non-white" scheme around the internet. Most on
class A models which , I think anyway, would look nasty on a class B.

I took Randy's advise and "created" a silhouette in Powerpoint to get a
"box" drawing of my motorhome. I then imported this into PaintShop Pro
and then used the "Fill" to set to gradient. Not exact, but it's been
very helpful deciding on colors.

You can see the "finished" version here
(http://www.texter.org.uk/cars/cars3.htm) if your interested.

Thanks again for everyones reply's and idea's! :)
Randy G. - 05 Oct 2006 05:56 GMT
>> I recently painted my camper Woodland Green (34094)  to blend with the
>> eastern forests where I camp.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>You can see the "finished" version here
>(http://www.texter.org.uk/cars/cars3.htm) if your interested.

That is quite a story you have penned, and what a nightmare! And I
thought I had problems! I just spent two  weeks scraping very hard
roof fibered sealing mastic off the roof of my 30 foot class A
motorhome! I had it easy!

re: your color scheme- I would suggest arranging it so that the middle
grey tones do not cross the rear like that. In a fog or during
twilight it will make your vehicle more difficult to see.

I hope you serve a big plate of whupass (as we say here in the place
from whence your instruments came) to the w.nker who sold it to you!

       Randy "" G.
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
Todd - 09 Oct 2006 05:31 GMT
> re: your color scheme- I would suggest arranging it so that the middle
> grey tones do not cross the rear like that. In a fog or during
> twilight it will make your vehicle more difficult to see.

Never thought of that! A solid back end would also be easier to paint!

I've modified the scheme and updated the website. Thanks for the tip!

BTW...I have been reading several people "rubbering" the top of there
motorhome's. Can you tell me why you would want to do that?
Randy G. - 12 Oct 2006 04:51 GMT
>> re: your color scheme- I would suggest arranging it so that the middle
>> grey tones do not cross the rear like that. In a fog or during
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>BTW...I have been reading several people "rubbering" the top of there
>motorhome's. Can you tell me why you would want to do that?

You probably would not! Newer motorhomes are coming with a one-piece,
butyl rubber roof. It comes in various lengths and is applied with a
special mastic. Once sealed it can be coated/painted/treated with
special stuff made for butyl to preserve it. It can last 15-20 years
or so if properly cared for, so I hear. On the other hand, I have seen
many that were beginning to delaminate/bubble. We were parked next to
a beautiful DP and when I got up on my roof to take some panoramic
pics I counted five or six bubbles in it. They are easy to install for
the manufacturer and a replacement for the owner will run about +/-
$800-900 USD for the materials, depending on length and width, etc.

If I were to go that route I would consider a one-piece aluminum sheet
roof. Last I checked, aluminum does not dry out or rot!  ;-)

Speaking of roofs.... I finished prepping mine today for coating! I
have about 60 hours of labor undoing what the idiots did with the
fibered mastic. And then I spent quite a few hours repairing what a PO
did- when there was a leak they tightened screws until they stripped,
then when it leaked again they installed larger screws, and when those
stripped or leaked they drilled more holes and installed more screws.
I was able to get enough of them to bite using plastic screw anchors
and used enough butyl to hold me for a year or two (or more), but
there is one corner that will need a fiberglass mat patch to give the
screws a place to bit. Without pulling off cabinets in the interior
there is no way to get to the back of the panel to add material for
the screws to hold on to from the inside.

While I was at it I also routed the antenna lead for the Winegard
correctly (through the base of the mount). They had it draped over to
the corner of the roof and through a drilled hole. They covered the
hole with a flat piece of aluminum with a hump to fit the wire, and
then used four screws to hold it to the roof with butyl underneath and
fibered roof mastic over all that. Of course, this was in a corner
where water gathers, and you can guess the rest. Not only was the
lead-in unsightly, it was begging to catch a branch and rip itself out
of the roof. They also used a coax connector mid-wire which is not
supposed to be done because of the signal amplifier.

Also installed the new black-water-tank/toilet roof vent. The old one
was just the vent base with a cap, but there was no riser off the vent
pipe. It ended just below roof level with a gap between the pipe and
the roof which could allow fumes into the motor home.

Some people just shouldn't own tools! And the owners of the shop that
did this roof job should keep their hands in their pockets and not use
any tools in there, either!  Idiots!!

TIP: when patching roofs (or anything else) you should not place a
hard or stiff mastic in areas that will flex and NEVER over surfaces
coated with butyl or any other non-hardening or highly flexible
sealant. Rubbery goes ON TOP OF stiff stuff!

But at least the interior will be dry now when it rains! I hope...

       Randy "" G.
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com
Todd - 16 Oct 2006 17:25 GMT
Sounds to me like you have your hands full with your own project!

It also sounds like I want to stay far away from a "rubber roof",
although I'm still not clear why you'd want one?

I suppose if your up there "storing cargo", a rubber roof would be more
durable. Fortunatley my motor is small enough not to worry about
something like that. :)

BTW...I had to remove the TV antenna from mine as well. I replaced it
with an internal wide band antenna normally used on light aircraft. It
wasn't that expansive (refurbished part) and receives a wider range of
signals (even WIFI freqencies!). I put it in the fibreglass
roof-dome-thing for better reception. Works great! Benefits of being an
aircraft mechanic!

Todd
Randy G. - 17 Oct 2006 19:58 GMT
>Sounds to me like you have your hands full with your own project!

Not any more... I am done! Finished the roof including sealing all the
screw heads, and am now working my way down the sides sealing all the
various possible leak points.

>It also sounds like I want to stay far away from a "rubber roof",
>although I'm still not clear why you'd want one?

I don't think anyone would add one. I think the manufacturers use them
because they are cheap (or easy) to apply during manufacturing. I have
seen one-piece aluminum roofs- done much the same way but using
aluminum instead of the butyl roll stuff.

 From Randy & Val
1990 30' Rexhal Airex
 
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