I got it for $9000 with less than 70,000 miles on it. The owner
originally had it for something like $13,900 I think, and by the time
we looked she had dropped it to $10,000. There was nothing else
available around there parts that compared to size/mileage/quality.
But because of all the things I found with it (that she apparently
didn't know about as well) she took the 9. She was pleased and we were
happy- well, my wife was happy, and I am told that's how I felt about
it.  ;-)  She had just had an accident that was her fault and totaled
her car, and so she was happy to sell the RV because she didn't have
the space to store it and needed the cash.

Before I went to look at it we did some research on the older Rexhall
rigs and so I knew about the construction techniques they used. If
this had been one of the lesser, wood-framed rigs I would have not
purchased it. We have not put all that much into it as far as cash
goes, and I do have the time at hand to do the labor, so over all I
think we did OK, and at this point I know this thing pretty darn well.
I really didn't go into detail about inspecting one, but maybe I
should add what little I know about that to the pages. One thing for
certain, no matter how carefully you look, there will be things you
miss, the number of which will be directly proportionate to the age
and miles on the rig. I would highly recommend bringing a creeper and
a very bright flashlight and inspecting the undersides very carefully.
Look up in all the nooks and crannies, particularly in the area where
the sides meet the floors, as it were.

We started out thinking we could get what we wanted for about
$2500-4000. Shows how stupid I am!  ;-)

We did see some in the "economy range" of purchasing power, but they
were pretty well used up and neglected, or too small for us. Since we
travel with two German Shepherds, the extra room of a 30 is really
nice.

Tomorrow I install the Firestone Coil-Rite air bags to the front coils
and will have air all the way around! It has air shocks on the diff,
and it has a tag axle with air suspension as well.

If you have any questions I would be glad to help out if I can...

 From Randy & Val
1990 30' Rexhal Airex

In regards to the winegard, you can download the PDF of the
installation manual from the WInegard website which will give you some
clues as to how it works and where it can leak.
Try the RV-3095 manual if you are not sure what you have:
http://www.winegard.com/manuals.htm#mobile_ant
The pictures of all the parts is marginal at best, but it does detail
the removal of the elevating shaft.

If it is leaking down the center elevating shaft (the
raising/lowering/aiming interior bit), there is a rubber seal on the
shaft at the top side. The PDF explains how to access this. If it is a
general leak, then the best thing to do is remove the entire antenna
from the roof, check the shaft seal on the operating shaft thingy (it
can be removed without removing the mounting plate from the roof,
though), reseal the base with butyl putty tape, then apply something
like C10 or Proflex RV to the screws and the edge around the base as I
did. The tape will be thicker than you need, and if it is cold and not
pliable, do not tighten the screws too much to start. It might take a
few hours, or even a day or two) for the tape to flatten enough for
the mount to seat. Be careful not to strip out the screws.

I cannot reason why anyone would not use the built-in feed for the
antenna lead in.. Oh.. wait... Maybe the same idiots who resealed my
roof installed it..? That would explain it!  ;-)

be aware that you are supposed to lubricate the center shaft seal, the
elevating gears, and the rotating portion (at from the top, I think)
with spray silicone on a regular basis. it has probably been
neglected, and doing so might just solve your leak.

Yes, I eliminated the coax connector that was mid-span on the wire. I
just got a long enough piece of coax to be able to run it from the
antenna, through the shaft, down through the base, and all the way to
the amplifier. And yes, I had to pull off some trim to run my antenna
backwards to gain access to the side of the home where there is room.
My home is built with a 1" square tubing framework throughout,
including the ceiling, and the cabinets are screwed in to that, so
there was no way through the cabinets- I had to go around.

And maybe even more amazing, the fools who ran the antenna just left
the original Winegard boots on the cable even though they were not
using them, so I just sprayed them with a bit of silicone and used
them to seal the new run of wire. One boot on the amplified head and
another on the pass through on the base They also show push-on
connectors on the amplifier, but screw on connectors work as well.

The old hole... As I remember, I put in a piece of cardboard or
something to create a base and used auto body repair filler (Bondo) to
fill over it. Most of the smaller defects in the roof I used spot
putty (a solvent base putty that self dries and comes in a squeeze
tube. Very handy stuff!). You cannot see the repair at all through the
roof coat.

I believe that you will find that the Pro-flex brushable is intended
for spot repairs only (I talked to their chemist). They did not
formulate it for large areas.

Butyl tape has to be secured. It is for going between two other
things, like between the roof and the screwed down base of the
antenna. There is good and bad concerning butyl. For example, I chose
not to use it between the roof rack and the roof since the non-drying
nature of butyl leaves it flexible and so it allows movement. The
movement would allow the screws to work loose, thus causing a leak. I
screwed the rack directly onto the roof, then sealed the screws as
well as the perimeter of the mounts with C10. Butyl tape is good for
areas that you know for sure are going to move around no matter ho
well secured they are (like at the cab to roof joint).

Remember that I am somewhat new to this stuff, and some of my repairs
may not hold either, so consult a pro before doing anything like this
as it will save you problems later. Of course, every time I went into
the local RV store and told them what I was going to do they would
sell me something, then when I went back with pictures of what I did
they would tell me, "Oh.. Well, I would have done it this way
instead." SO my attitude is at this point that I have the choice of
taking their information, buying their goods at retail prices, and
screwing things up, or I can buy on the Internet based on my best
information gathered and screw it up myself without their help.  ;-)

The Proflex caulking is really great stuff, and if it lasts as long as
they way is worth every penny. You can get it directly from their
website and the price is quite good and they charge reasonable
shipping as well.

I hope I answered all your questions. I spent about 4 hours today
installing the Firestone Coil-Rite air bags in the front springs today
and am quite exhausted...

 From Randy & Val
1990 30' Rexhal Airex