I have a Class B and have a 12' high door (which requires a 14'
ceiling). That is not high enough for some Class A and C RVs, but AFAIK
it will handle most any Class B with ease.

The door is also 12' wide, but there's additional room on each side once
the vehicle is in the stall. (It's part of a three-stall, undivided
garage.) The RV stall is 36' long, but since my van is only 19' that
gives me lots of room for a worktable and power tools in front of it.

I will never want an RV bigger than maybe a 22' Sprinter van, so this is
plenty big for my needs. The one thing I can tell you is that you may
well need more space than you allow for, so aim big.

Concerning hookups, again, my maximum need is for 30 amps, so I have a
hookup for that. If you're going to go with a big Class A you may as
well put in 50 amps. I will never need that much, especially in my
garage. It's heated and air conditioned, so I don't need to run the a/c
in my van (although I could actually run it on 15 amps if needed). I
have a water faucet close by too, for ease in filling the tank in bad
weather.

I also have an engine exhaust hose that I can run through a specially
designed (by me <g>) opening in the wall, in case I need to run my van
engine (or a car engine) for whatever reason. And I have a large,
variable-speed exhaust fan mounted high on a wall for ventilation if
needed. Open windows, turn on exhaust fan, fresh air flows through
garage. Nice....

HTH.
GB in NC

Hi,
A bay with a 14 high by 12 foot wide door, 55-60 feet in length and
16-20 feet wide inside will hold almost any RV made.

Class A's most will need a 14 foot door as they are close to or over 12
feet high. That's probably 16 foot ceiling or more, so the antenna's can
spring back up :)  Most large 5th wheels are also 12 feet or higher.
Most Class C's will be 11 to 12 feet high. Travel trailers top heights
are around 11 to 11 1/2 feet or so.   If you are planning on any of
these then a 14 foot door would be best.  There are smaller ones of
these of course and smaller popup and hybrids too.

As far as hookups go if you are going to build something that big
might as well put in a drain for your RV septic, a water supply and a 30
or 50 amp electrical service.  A pit to get under it to work on or a big
lift would be nice but the lift would probably require a 25 foot ceiling
for some of them if you want a walk under lift.

Most folks start off small and end up getting bigger RV's.  You might
want to really look at what type of an RV you want before building a
garage for one.  Of course you can just add the bay I mentioned above
and don't worry about it :)  In other words to know specifically what
you need you need to know what you intend to buy...

Take care and Happy Campin...

Only a nambypamby would let someone park a vehicle in their work shop.
The bigger the garage, the bigger the workshop. That's just the way it is.

Most people have a budget or some other glitch that keeps them from
building the perfect workshop/garage ( zoning/building codes). Knowing
this, only you can make that determination.

After honestly assessing your desire and ability, only then can you
decide what to do.

If you talk to others that have done this, you will find that there is
always something they didn't do or should have done. Bottom line is you
can't build it big enough the first time or add too much extras. A lift
or pit is an excellent idea but usually not practical for the majority
of us RV'ers.

Good luck, but remember that whatever you do, it won't be perfect.

Hank <~~~didn't build big enough :-)

my dream garage has at least a 20' ceiling, 15' doors, is 60' long,
15' wide and has a circular drive allowing me to pull thru with the
toad attached.  it would have all 3 hookups plus a workbench and a
mechanic's pit.  the pit may be a bit of a stretch but it would be
nice.  

73,
rich, n9dko