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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / December 2006Cummins engine light question
2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 I just got back from a trip. The mileage was 7300 before the trip, now it is 7600. I KNOW the oil was to be changed before the trip, but it didn't happen. I was in temperatures that ranged from 1 degree to 35 degrees. I used the plug in block heater at night. The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. That little pale light that looks like an engine. Is this from not changing the oil (and how does the engine tell this?), or something else. We left to come home, and the temperature was about 20 degrees F. The instrument indicated that the water temp was about 180 or even a little less. I am reading about the coverings of the radiators that are used in cold weather. By the time we reached Vegas, it was about fifty, and I thought the light would go off if it was due to low engine temperature. The light didn't go off. Are these radiator blockers really necessary? We range in a wide band, living in Las Vegas, and traveling up to Southern Utah regularly. I would use it only when going up to the cold climate. We will be moving there soon, so will have more opportunities to use it regularly. I am going to change the oil tomorrow. I PROMISE! And I'll check all the thinguses that I can check. Heck, I'll even read the manual to see what they say about the blankets in front of the radiator. I actually did read the manual regarding the block heater, and recall mention of the intentional radiator obstruction, but IIRC, the manual does not go into real detail on it. Can the engine light come on if the temp is too low? Shouldn't it go off when ambient temp is over 40 F? Help appreciated. Thanks. Steve > 2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Steve Here is what I would do. Find out exactly what turned the light on and not leave it to speculation. Go to an Autozone if you have one and ask them to use their house code reader to read the OBD II codes (the big assumption here is that these bigger rigs have on board diagnostics - I have a hard time imagining that they would not...). Then go here to find out what the code means: http://www.obdii.com/codes.html These codes are universal for all makes. You can also get a code reader for maybe $75 or so and have it always (and become the favorite guy in your neighborhood for when things go wrong, lol) Once you know what is causing this light to come on you can begin to discuss what to do. Otherwise it is like going to a doctor and saying that I have a pain and offering no other clues. ;-) Tomes >> 2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 >> [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > that I have a pain and offering no other clues. ;-) > Tomes Thanks a bunch. I know that electrical test equipment will save a lot of time and money. I just fixed my two year old oven for $62, and they wanted $379. I read the error codes and followed the tech guide that was hidden under a panel. I shall start shopping tomorrow. Any brand names you like more than the other? Steve > The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. Cynical Mode: ON The [Check Engine] light is rarely anything more than an indication that your friendly Mr. GoodWrench, DodgeWrench or FordWrench needs to make a boat payment. When the [Check Engine] light comes on, it indicates that the onboard computer has set a code. That code usually indicates the failure of some obscure, miniscule component of the emissions control system. (Thank-you, Big Brother) While the new vehicle warranty of many vehicles is 3-years/36k miles, the [federal agency du jour] mandated that the emissions control system(s) of all new vehicles are covered for 50k miles. This was one of the prime drivers behind the introduction of the dreaded Check Engine light. If the vehicle runs OK otherwise, and all fluid levels are OK, you probably have little to worry about. Changing the oil will probably NOT reset the light. Only a trip to Mr. [Whomever]Wrench will accomplish that. Good luck. You probably don't need it.  Signature:) JR >> The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. > [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > luck. > You probably don't need it. I didn't say that I drove 185 miles from the time I first saw the light. I DID keep an eye on the oil, water temp, and electric gauges, though. This is my new puppy, and I don't want to hurt it by doing something stupid. I like Tomes' idea of buying a code reader. I am lucky, though, that my mechanic is a 20 year friend, and he will tell me if it is something I should fix myself or bring it in. He once put in a set of king pins on a Ford truck I had when Big O quoted me $800 "for everything" including tie rod ends that I didn't need. Total cost .............. $130. He's like that. Just fixes what needs it. Tells you if you need something soon, and tells me when I need to get off the couch and do it myself. Steve >>>The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. >> [quoted text clipped - 39 lines] > > Steve Steve, Keep this man a a friend. The best thing to do is to find out what you can do for him so he has the time to help you. Next thing. Get the OBDII reader, I have a 39$ cheapy that does work and a really nice set that plugs into my laptop and gives me back all kinds of information - it wasn't cheap. I use both. I do not remember the Dodge truck IP specifically, but many vehicles have two (2) annoying little lights. One is the MIL - maintenance indicator lamp- It idicated that the engine control unit doesn't like something (anything that it can) that it is seeing. The other is the periodic service indicator. This is the one that says "Change the oil- etc....) Make sure you know which it is. Good luck guy > Changing the oil will probably NOT reset the > > light. Only a trip to Mr. [Whomever]Wrench will accomplish that. Good [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Steve I have an OBDI analyzer that will read AND reset trouble codes. It will also operate with the engine running to read the sensor data on the OBDI bus. It cost less than $200. It's an Actron CP9145. Note that it cannot decode proprietary codes, only the Gov't required codes. I'd bet if it is an OIL CHANGE DUE alarm, it is reset with some complicated sequence of key on and some button or buttons on the dashboard. READ the instruction book VERY thoroughly or ask your dealer. I strongly disagree with the poster indicating that a sensor malfunction is not something you need to fix. The engine controls on computer controlled engines RESPOND directly to these sensors. If you do not CARE about the mixture your engine runs with, disregard a malfunctioning oxygen sensor; let the thing carbon up, wreck your catalytic converter, and get lower fuel mileage...or fix it. When you KNOW what the problem is, you'll have Mr Goodwrench doing only what is necessary, not paying for his kids braces on your pocketbook....or you can buy the sensor and replace it yourself. In MA where we live, an engine malfunction light is automatic rejection at inspection time too.... HTH, Barrie B > I have an OBDI analyzer that will read AND reset trouble codes. It will > also operate with the engine running to read the sensor data on the OBDI > bus. It cost less than $200. It's an Actron CP9145. This is an OBD II reader unit. > 2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Steve Try reading the Owner's Manual: in the back of it there's a Diagnostic Checklist. To get the "codes" you don't need a specialized reader - just cycle the ignition key from OFF to ON 3 times [without starting the engine] and any "codes" will be displayed where your Odometer reading is normally shown. [Right below the Speedometer - not on the overhead console! <G>] BTW - you might want to pick up one of these: http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DFSM06_CD just in case. Not only does it contain the codes, it tells you what to fix and how to fix it. >> 2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 >> [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > only does it contain the codes, it tells you what to fix and how to fix > it. You da man, Ram! Thanks. Steve > To get the "codes" you don't need a specialized reader - just cycle the > ignition key from OFF to ON 3 times [without starting the engine] and any > "codes" will be displayed where your Odometer reading is normally shown. > [Right below the Speedometer - not on the overhead console! <G>] Used to be most/all vehicles had similar procedures. I wish there was a scanner-free code retrieval procedure for my truck. Since OBD II came out, most vehicles now require a scanner, which at least is partially standardized. These days they're cheap, too; $50 at Harbor Freight or on eBay. > BTW - you might want to pick up one of these: > http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DFSM06_CD just in case. Not > only does it contain the codes, it tells you what to fix and how to fix it. Check your local library and see if you can borrow the dead tree edition. I have the service manual for my GMC out from the library right now. >2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. That little pale >light that looks like an engine. I do not know these motors at all, but some have service reminder lights that come on to remind you of a pending service visit (major tune up, oil changes, etc.) any frequency can be programmed by the manufacturer to have the light come on. If there is not a separate engine service light it could just mean that it is due for a scheduled oil change or such... just thinking out loud. From Randy & Val 1990 30' Rexhal Airex > 2006 Dodge Cummins 2500 > [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > > Steve It's under warranty. Take it to the dealer. Signature/home/phranc/signature >The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. That little pale >light that looks like an engine. Is this from not changing the oil (and how >does the engine tell this?), or something else. We left to come home, and I'd be really suspicious since it came on at exactly 7500 miles. I can't speak for your diesel but my Honda CRV turns on the "service engine soon" light at preprogrammed oil change times. The manufacturer recommends changing oil every 10K miles and every 10K miles the service engine soon light comes on. I change oil every 5K miles but that darned light still comes on. Jon Signature==================================================== Jon Griffin Yuma,AZ Olds, AB http://www.om-im.org ==================================================== I got the thing to work by turning it on and off exactly three times. When it works, there are a series of dashes, a five to ten second wait, then the word "done". After that, the light still stays on. No error codes. The book says there's an onboard diagnostic system, but it sternly warns that only factory certified high dollar repair geeks should attempt to use them. We'll see. Steve > I got the thing to work by turning it on and off exactly three > times. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > warns that only factory certified high dollar repair geeks should > attempt to use them. Just a suggestion. On some engines, disconnecting the battery for several minutes with reset the computer. The only drawback to this that I've noticed when I did this is, one of my vehicles programmed how each driver drove it, so it took a couple of days driving for it to relearn so it operated smoothly again. Tom J >> I got the thing to work by turning it on and off exactly three times. >> When it works, there are a series of dashes, a five to ten second [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Tom J Went and got the filter and oil today, and they say Pep Boys will run a diagnostic for free. I do believe I'll get a reader for my own satisfaction. If it bugs me, I'll just take it in and have warranty look at it. Steve > Went and got the filter and oil today, and they say Pep Boys will run a > diagnostic for free. I do believe I'll get a reader for my own > satisfaction. This sounds like a GREAT opportunity to get a <drum roll> NEW TOOL!! > If it bugs me, I'll just take it in and have warranty look at it. I may have implied it could be OVERLOOKED but, personally, it would be me for sure. Good luck. Let us know if you get the tool. Signature:) JR >> Went and got the filter and oil today, and they say Pep Boys will run a >> diagnostic for free. I do believe I'll get a reader for my own [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > for > sure. Good luck. Let us know if you get the tool. I am researching them as we speak. I think I will call my mechanic first and ask him. He's a Snap-On man, and I think I know which one he will suggest. But, he will probably be able to give me some alternatives. Steve >I got the thing to work by turning it on and off exactly three times. When >it works, there are a series of dashes, a five to ten second wait, then the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Steve Steve - that is one way of displaying error codes (like RAM noted). You did a good thing by trying that. Perhaps you don't need a reader after all. Read the series of dashes. It might be, say, a one, then a nine, then a five. That would translate into code PO195, which when we look it up would be Engine Oil Temperature Sensor Malfunction. It will be a three digit code. Let's see what this does for us. Regarding the code reader, I am getting one for Christmas (ummm, that ought to be _will_ be getting one...) and I ended up choosing this one: http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9145-AutoScanner-Diagnostic-Post-1996/dp/B00020BM 2S/sr=8-2/qid=1165281222/ref=pd_bbs_sr_2/105-3713261-7685253?ie=UTF8&s=automotiv e This one has more features than the regular guy likely needs, but I have a Jeep TJ with 78K miles and a Sienna with 188K miles, and they are at the point where I think I will be doing some investigative diagnostics (looking for things before the idiot light comes on). This one does that sort of thing. A simpler one that only reads the codes and then clears them if you want is the 9125 model and I saw it at Autozone today for I think $69. http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9125-PocketScan-Diagnostic-Post-1996/dp/B0007LEG2 K/sr=8-4/qid=1165281992/ref=pd_bbs_sr_4/105-3713261-7685253?ie=UTF8&s=automotive I think that this will likely do. The 9145 above is on sale with an additional small print discount for $168 (enter promotional code ILW7MGWS). Normally $300 [plus tax] in the store, I went for that. I almost settled for the cheaper one, but discussions I had on both the Jeep and the Toyota NGs convinced me to do what I did. I easily could have gone either way. Come back to us to tell us what the dashes say. Then the ones who might actually know about the mechanics of stuff can begin to help. Tomes > The engine light started coming on right at 7500 miles. That little pale > light that looks like an engine. Is this from not changing the oil (and [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > we reached Vegas, it was about fifty, and I thought the light would go off > if it was due to low engine temperature. The light didn't go off. There is nothing you did that hurt your engine. Dodge has this little annoying system to remind you to take your vehicle in to have some scheduled maintenance done. My 1987 Caravan would turn this light on every 50k. The dealer told me there is a little reset switch next to the speedometer to reset the light so I did it myself. My 1995 Dodge Ram 3500 turned it's light on at 60k. I had to take the damn thing in anyway to have them replace the anti-lock brake sensor for the second time so I told them to reset the light. DH >There is nothing you did that hurt your engine. Dodge has this little >annoying system to remind you to take your vehicle in to have some scheduled [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >replace the anti-lock brake sensor for the second time so I told them to >reset the light. On my Honda there is a small knob near the speedometer that you use to adjust the brightness of the dash lights. When the 'service engine light' comes on you press in on this knob while turning on the key and hold it in for a few seconds. Jon Signature==================================================== Jon Griffin Yuma,AZ Olds, AB http://www.om-im.org ==================================================== >>There is nothing you did that hurt your engine. Dodge has this little >>annoying system to remind you to take your vehicle in to have some [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Jon If someone knows the secret solution for the Dodge Cummins turbo, I'd appreciate being let into the club. I'm sure it's something simple. But from reading the manual, one would think it takes a highly educated tekkie with all manner of equipment to fix this mechanism. Steve >> On my Honda there is a small knob near the speedometer that you use to >> adjust the brightness of the dash lights. When the 'service engine [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Steve Thanks, Jon. I tried it, and got a series of codes, which I shall post in a new thread. I owe you one. Steve > But from reading the manual, one would think it takes a highly educated > tekkie with all manner of equipment to fix this mechanism. As I suggested the other day: get yourself a copy of the Service Manual! <G> The CD/DVD edition is cheaper and, if you want hard copy to have at hand, you can print off just the part you need instead of lugging a couple of thousand sheets of paper... <VBG> Unfortunately, the setup on the 2005s is a bit different from my 2003 since the PCM was eliminated and its functionality merged into the ECM. Otherwise, I'd have quoted from my copy. >> But from reading the manual, one would think it takes a highly educated >> tekkie with all manner of equipment to fix this mechanism. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Otherwise, > I'd have quoted from my copy. Yeah. I was reading a Google article today from a guy who had a 2003. He said what he did to get the engine light to go off was to start it, put it in reverse, go a few feet, put it in drive, drive a few feet, then put it in park and shut it off. Repeat three times, and on the fourth time, the light would go away. Well, I tried it. Good thing I was on private property, or the neighbors would have called me in for drunk driving. Steve |
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