A very high percentage of lighting problems I have seen has come down to a
bad ground.  Start there.  If that ain't it, good luck.

Steve

I see where Eddie <hawaii-50@sbcglobal.net> contributed:

Steve is probably right - bad grounds account for the vast majority of
trailer lighting troubles, and if ALL trailer lights are dim, that's
the best guess.  Test the idea by connected a jumper cable from
trailer frame to your truck frame.  

You might well be pulling more current that the tail light circuit can
handle, though. I can't tell exactly what the "Trailer Light Power
Module, part #13493" is, but you don't need it.  Your trailer SHOULD
have a charging line, a fairly heavy wire whose main purpose is
charging the trailer battery.  If so, all you need is an inexpensive
12v relay  and the help of someone who knows enough about dc wiring to
install same.  It can be installed in the tow vehicle wiring or the
trailer - either way all it does is use the tail light voltage to pull
in the relay - the current to run the lights comes from the charging
line.

We have found it necessary to do that with several trailers over the
years -  usually because the tow vehicle taillight wiring or switch
was overloaded by adding all the trailer lights.

Will Sill
The Curmudgeon of Sill Hill

I agree with the other poster, bad ground, or ground wire isn't large
enough to handle the load. Make sure each light has a "good " ground.
Also check the ground on the tow vehicle to make sure it is of proper
size and is getting a good ground to the battery. The tow vehicle may
have numerous grounds to the battery via the frame. Each connection
must be clean and getting contact.

An easy way to narrow down where the problem is, is to hook your tow
vehicle to another trailer and vice-versa. This should tell you where
to start.

Replacing the flasher will only affect the turn signals and four ways,
not the brake or running lights.

Good Luck,

Hank

Check the ground first.

Find the problem not patch it with a questionable device.

Michelle P

If your Club Wagon didn't have a "tow package" you will need a heavy duty
flasher, but that won't solve your dim lights problem.  The Trailer Light
Power Module sounds like a relay setup to me.  It's my impression that most
modern vehicles already use a relay to power the lighting circuit.  Halogen
headlights draw way too much power to run through a switch.  So, every dim
trailer light problem I have ever had was cured by working on the grounds.
Paul Johnson

Eddie,

I agree with all of the responses, ground issue.  I had the same issue
while towing my Maxima behind my motherhome.  Here's what I found.  It
was definitly a ground issue, but it wasn't a broken or loose wire
causing the problem.  On my 7 pin (male) plug I found that the pin for
the gorund had colapsed together.  If I looked at my connector, the
male pins are kinda split in half.  What ended up happening is that
the split pieces were pushed together.  I ended up taking a flat blade
screw driver and seperating the pins a little.  This allowed both
peices of the pin to make good contact with the female pin. I did this
to all of the pins and now I have a solid connection and a good
ground.  My lights now come on bright.  This is now part of my
periodic maintanence.  Hope my description is clear and helps.

-paul

With that many lights, you don't need a "booster" you need heavier wiring.
Also, you'll probably burn up the truck wiring with that many if the truck
is fairly new.  You need a constant battery feed to the trailer with a 10ga
wire, then use a relay system to trigger the trailer lights off that feed.