 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / April 2007110V wire going to our water heater, but no way to use it.
While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to store a 50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire attached to the water heater. As far as I know, there is no element in the heater and obviously no way to operate it. It is strictly propane. The unit is a 06 Forest River Sunseeker C-class. Where do the elements go in / stick out ? Maybe it is two way and I just don't know it yet. >While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to store a >50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire attached to the >water heater. As far as I know, there is no element in the heater and >obviously no way to operate it. It is strictly propane. The unit is a 06 >Forest River Sunseeker C-class. Where do the elements go in / stick out ? >Maybe it is two way and I just don't know it yet. Exactly where is the wire attached to the water heater? Can you see or access the other end of the cord? If so, is there a 110v plug attached to it? Is it plugged in somewhere, or is there an outlet nearby where you COULD plug it in? If the drain plug has been replaced by a Hott Rod or Lightning Rod add-on heating element, all you have to do is to plug in the other end of the cord to 110v and you have auxiliary 110v heat for your water. GB in NC > While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to store a > 50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire attached to the > water heater. As far as I know, there is no element in the heater and > obviously no way to operate it. It is strictly propane. The unit is a 06 > Forest River Sunseeker C-class. Where do the elements go in / stick out ? > Maybe it is two way and I just don't know it yet. If it's like mine, it has a box on the side of the heater. There is a rocker switch on top of the box. Hugh >> While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to store >> a 50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire attached to the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > If it's like mine, it has a box on the side of the heater. There is a > rocker switch on top of the box. There is a box on the side of the heater, but I didn't notice a switch. I don't know where the other end of the wire is attached. The drain plug is where the anode rod is and there is no element that I can see there. I am starting to think that it automatically converts to 110v when available. This could be an issue with the inverter. >>>While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to store >>>a 50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire attached to the [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > I am starting to think that it automatically converts to 110v when > available. This could be an issue with the inverter. Check the top of the box, see if there is a kinda flat button there. If there is, see if it will rock back and forth. Ours is marked on and off but you can't see the lettering because it's too far in under the cabinet. Our heater is in the front curbside sink cabinet. I can see the plug though. Hugh >>> While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to store >>> a 50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire attached to the [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > I am starting to think that it automatically converts to 110v when > available. This could be an issue with the inverter. I am not aware of any two-way water heaters that automatically switch over. Check inside the RV's bathroom and kitchen and look for a switch in either place for the water heater. It should be near the LP water heater switch, but not always. If there is no rocker switch on the box near the water tank, look for a little red button. Some brands have a little button near or on the tank that has to be activated before the heater will work on 110. Push the little button. You might also have to use an inside switch like the one mentioned in the first paragraph. Most towables built within the past 5-10 years have two-way water heaters.  SignatureJanet Wilder Bad spelling. Bad punctuation Good Friends. Good Life Looking at the manual, I eventually found a small switch on the outside of the heater that evidently turns the electric element on. Thanks for the help! Dan >>>> While snooping around inside some cabinetry looking for a place to >>>> store a 50 ft. power cord, I noticed that there was a 110V wire [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Most towables built within the past 5-10 years have two-way water heaters. It's buried behind something else any you can barely get your finger to it, right? that's the way the one in my FR is. SignatureSteve Barker > Looking at the manual, I eventually found a small switch on the outside of > the heater that evidently turns the electric element on. Thanks for the > help! > > Dan > It's buried behind something else any you can barely get your finger to > it, right? You bet! That is why I never noticed it before. How about the drain? Ours was the anode rod. I had to buy a special socket to remove it and then it is a pain to put back in because of the dificulty of catching the thread with the weight of the rod cantilevered out there. I ended up adding a "T" to the hole with the anode rod going back into the heater and a valve for draining coming from the stem. A lot of things on our unit tells me that Forest River seems to think that their units will only get winterized once annually. > that's the way the one in my FR is. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> >> Dan I use a half inch drive socket and extension, seems to work for me. 'course I've only done it 3 times so far. SignatureSteve Barker > How about the drain? Ours was the anode rod. I had to buy a special > socket to remove it and then it is a pain to put back in because of the [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > A lot of things on our unit tells me that Forest River seems to think that > their units will only get winterized once annually. I had to buy a 1 1/8" socket to get it out. If I had not installed the valve, I would have bushed the hole to accept a smaller anode rod. Why didn't FR put on in to begin with? >I use a half inch drive socket and extension, seems to work for me. >'course I've only done it 3 times so far. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >> A lot of things on our unit tells me that Forest River seems to think >> that their units will only get winterized once annually. >I had to buy a 1 1/8" socket to get it out. If I had not installed the >valve, I would have bushed the hole to accept a smaller anode rod. Why >didn't FR put on in to begin with? Apparently FR doesn't use Atwood water heaters, they don't need an anode rod! "Aluminum clad tank - Less weight and the cladding eliminates the need for an anode rod." http://www.atwoodmobile.com/Products/water/elecignt.cfm Ron >>I use a half inch drive socket and extension, seems to work for me. >>'course I've only done it 3 times so far. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >>> A lot of things on our unit tells me that Forest River seems to think >>> that their units will only get winterized once annually. >> I had to buy a 1 1/8" socket to get it out. If I had not installed the >> valve, I would have bushed the hole to accept a smaller anode rod. Why >> didn't FR put on in to begin with? Forest River doesn't make the tank. It's made by Suburban. > Apparently FR doesn't use Atwood water heaters, they don't need an anode > rod! > "Aluminum clad tank - Less weight and the cladding eliminates the need for > an anode rod." The Atwood tank will have to be completely replaced as the tank is sacrificial. Atwood tanks have to be flushed periodically, too. The nut that drains the Atwood is a piece of plastic. If you try to get a grip on it to drain the tank, it is highly likely to break. Don't ever try to open the nut on an Atwood without a spare! Janet, who had an Atwood and two Suburbans and prefers the Suburbans for reliability. SignatureJanet Wilder Bad spelling. Bad punctuation Good Friends. Good Life > How about the drain? Ours was the anode rod. I had to buy a special socket > to remove it and then it is a pain to put back in because of the dificulty > of catching the thread with the weight of the rod cantilevered out there. I > ended up adding a "T" to the hole with the anode rod going back into the > heater and a valve for draining coming from the stem. That anode rod will have to be replaced periodically. It's "sacrificial" meaning that it will deteriorate rather than the insides of the water heater from minerals in the water. They are inexpensive and it's a good idea to have a spare on hand. It's also a good idea to check it wither before or after winterizing and once again during the camping season. SignatureJanet Wilder Bad spelling. Bad punctuation Good Friends. Good Life It is still there and will be replaced when necessary. The valve is at 90 degrees to the rod now. You are right, I should probably keep a spare around. >> How about the drain? Ours was the anode rod. I had to buy a special >> socket to remove it and then it is a pain to put back in because of the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > also a good idea to check it wither before or after winterizing and once > again during the camping season. > > [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >their units will only get winterized once annually. > That is a bum rap, Forest River does not manufacturer the water heaters and there are only a couple of brands out there. I know of nothing they do or construct in a different manner from other manufacturers, as for winterization. They normally come equipped with a water heater bypass system and low point drains. The only thing they do not normally have is a siphon valve for injecting antifreeze (the pink stuff) in the water system, but few do furnish that. If you have the correct 1.1/16" socket and a short extension for removing and replacing the anode rod it works very well. Should always put fresh Teflon tape on the threads. Never allow the pink stuff to get on the anode rod, it will deteriate it in a hurry. The Anode rod should be checked at least once a year for possible replacement. > > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > SignatureBILL P. Just Me & DOG -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com The low points required pliers to remove the caps so I replaced them with plastic ball valves. The water heater by-pass' access was through a drawer hole and operating the valve caused me to mess up the bathroom's heater hose because the valve was touching the hose and I could not see the valve and operate it at the same time. How much does a anti freeze by-pass cost to have installed at the factory? Not much. I am unsympathetic to anyone who designs a unit that has to have a 1 1/16" threaded hole for a drain when I installed a proper valve in only a few minutes. Our 22 year old Toyota Dolphin had a proper valve. I love our unit, but there are a bunch of things that FR could have done for very little extra expense to have made it a whole lot better. >>>It's buried behind something else any you can barely get your finger to >>>it, right? [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >>>> >>>>Dan >The low points required pliers to remove the caps so I replaced them with >plastic ball valves. > Mine came with the ball valves. >The water heater by-pass' access was through a drawer hole and operating the >valve caused me to mess up the bathroom's heater hose because the valve was >touching the hose and I could not see the valve and operate it at the same >time. > I was not aware one had to look at a valve to turn it a 1/4 turn. >How much does a anti freeze by-pass cost to have installed at the factory? >Not much. > Considering there are other ways to inject the pink stuff in the system and few manufacturers provide the siphon valve in the system. I believe that is what you are referring to. The only bypass I know of is the water heater and that consists of one valve to operate. http://www.go-rv.com/coast/do/catalog/page?dealerId=7&pageNum=361 >I am unsympathetic to anyone who designs a unit that has to have a 1 1/16" >threaded hole for a drain when I installed a proper valve in only a few [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >very little extra expense to have made it a whole lot better. > SignatureBILL P. Just Me & DOG -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com > I was not aware one had to look at a valve to turn it a 1/4 turn. You have to find it blind. > > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Well I shine my flashlight on it and see where it is then turn the light off and reach in it's direction until I feel it, then turn it, nothing difficult about that. SignatureBILL P. Just Me & DOG -- Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com >>>I was not aware one had to look at a valve to turn it a 1/4 turn. >> [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > off and reach in it's direction until I feel it, then turn it, > nothing difficult about that. Perhaps I am just not up to your speed yet . . . Looking at the by-pass valve today, I see that I can remove it and put it in backwards, operating lever toward the heater side of the pipe, which will put it in a position that I can get to easier and be less prone to damaging the heater duct. I will do this when repairing the duct. >>>>I was not aware one had to look at a valve to turn it a 1/4 turn. >>> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Perhaps I am just not up to your speed yet . . . Done! It is far easier to find and use with the operating lever on the heater side of the pipe. Now on to the repair of the duct. > Looking at the by-pass valve today, I see that I can remove it and put it > in backwards, operating lever toward the heater side of the pipe, which [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> >> Perhaps I am just not up to your speed yet . . . |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.