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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / September 2007Ford Recall 05S28 (Speed Control Deactivation Switch)
I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on the Ford Class A Motorhome Chassis with a 6.8L Ford Triton V10 engine. The following photo is of the top of the engine. Is the Speed Control Deactivation Switch visible/accessible from this vantage point. If yes; can and will someone please point it out? TIA. http://home.mindspring.com/%7Etomcom/V10/6.8L_Ford_Triton_V10.jpg >I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on the Ford Class A Motorhome >Chassis with a 6.8L Ford Triton V10 engine. The following photo is of the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > http://home.mindspring.com/%7Etomcom/V10/6.8L_Ford_Triton_V10.jpg It is not visible in that picture. The cruise control recall part is physically plugged into the Master Cylinder. The recall is an electrical device, and there is a connector on the master cylinder. You unplug the vehicle wiring from the master cylinder, the recall part plugs into the connector then the vehicle wiring plugs into the recall part. Thanks Jeff. I believe that I found it. On my rig it is located inside the front access door about 12" under and slightly to the left of the master cylinder. See the following photo: http://home.mindspring.com/%7Etomcom/V10/Speed_Control_Deactivation_Switch.jpg I'm going to let a Ford service center validate this, but I wanted to know so that I can document it's location. In the meantime; I have removed the positive cable from the chassis battery. Thanks again. >> I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on the Ford Class A >> Motorhome Chassis with a 6.8L Ford Triton V10 engine. The following [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > plugs into the connector then the vehicle wiring plugs into the recall > part. I still think you have failed to find the part. I did own a '95 Bronco, and I currently own a '97 F150, both of which had this recall done. The Recall Part should be phisically connected to the master cylinder. Having said that, the master cylinder has a pressure switch that looks something like the switch in your picture. You may have the right switch, but it looks like you do not have the recall parts installed. If that is the right switch, then you would simply disconnect it and connect the Recall Part in its place, then connect the wire that was formerly connected to the switch to the Recall Part. Then, use wire ties to secure the Recall Part. The switch you found is not replaced (assuming you found the right switch), an electrical device is merely plugged into the wiring harness at the switch. > Thanks Jeff. I believe that I found it. On my rig it is located inside > the front access door about 12" under and slightly to the left of the [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >> plugs into the connector then the vehicle wiring plugs into the recall >> part. You are correct. I don't have the new fused wiring harness installed. I just received the recall notice on Saturday, 9/8 and have an appointment with a Ford service center on Wednesday, 9/12. They have already informed me that they don't have the harnesses in stock and, until they receive them, they are going to remove the connector and tape it until they receive a supply of harnesses. During the interim; I can operate the motor home minus cruise/speed control. In the last photo that I posted you can see 2 tubes on the right side of the photo. The left most tube is connected to the master cylinder. I will learn on Wednesday whether or not I have identified the switch correctly. > I still think you have failed to find the part. > [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] >>> part plugs into the connector then the vehicle wiring plugs into the >>> recall part. On my F150, the switch that looks like yours is attached directly to the master cylinder, I assume that in your case the master cylinder is somewhat different, and the switch is mid-tube as a result. If the tube your switch is mounted to is connected directly to the nose of the master cylinder, then you and I are looking at the same switch, or a switch that does the same job. > You are correct. I don't have the new fused wiring harness installed. I > just received the recall notice on Saturday, 9/8 and have an appointment [quoted text clipped - 55 lines] >>>> plugs into the connector then the vehicle wiring plugs into the recall >>>> part. You must realize that a Class A motor home engine compartment configuration is different from that of a pickup or SUV. The engine is usually located between the driver and passenger seat and is accessed via a removable cover inside the motor home(some components can only be accessed from under the motor home). Since that would make it difficult(due to space restictions) to access components such as the master cylinder, radiator fill, power steering fill, etc. those items are usually placed in a separate compartment(which also has limited space, especially depth) at the front of the motor home. This is the case with mine. On my previous motor home(a 1994 Newmar Kountry Star with a Ford 460) the master cylinder was located inside the driver's side front wheel well(at the top of the wheel well). So they are all different dependent upon the motor home year, model and manufacturer. > On my F150, the switch that looks like yours is attached directly to the > master cylinder, I assume that in your case the master cylinder is [quoted text clipped - 62 lines] >>>>> part plugs into the connector then the vehicle wiring plugs into >>>>> the recall part. I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not that hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread connection. Its a momentary "off "design switch, meaning its always on unless tripped. A Hobbs pressure switch would be a real easy fix here. Or for those that really want it completly out of the hydrolic system, a GM brake light switch w/crusie control mounted under the dash so that its activated when the brakes are applied. Yes its a bad design, no question about it, and there isn't a manufacturer out there that hasnt had bad designs in their cars. But this one is an easy work around. I dont like Ford's fix at all. Whitelightning >I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not that >hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread connection. Its a [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Whitelightning So your fix is better than the one the engineers at Ford devised? > So your fix is better than the one the engineers at Ford devised? The problem is A) a cheap pressure switch that leaks too easy, and B) a bad design that was done away with back in the 50's.. The ford engineers "patch" does not fix the cause of the problem, it throws a cheap to make, cheap to install Band-Aid on it. Years ago all brake light switches were of similar design, a pressure switch that hydraulic pressure turned on when you stepped on the brakes. They were prone to leaking. couple with the fact that brake systems did not have dual reservoirs and you lost the brakes. Uncle Sugar used that same set up on the M35 series 2 1/2 truck and the M50 series 5 ton trucks, ie the M52 tractor, the 546 wrecker etc and the M800 series 5 ton trucks, up until they were retired. They leaked all the time. So fords engineers fix might stop the fire issue, but it does nothing, nada, zip to fix the problem of a switch that likes to leak does it. Whitelightning >> So your fix is better than the one the engineers at Ford devised? > > The problem is A) a cheap pressure switch that leaks too easy, > and B) a bad design that was done away with back in the 50's.. The problem is not at all that which you have identified. There is no sign that my switches are leaking -- the switch in my '95 Bronco, or the switch in my '97 F150. The engineers are working to correct the problem of a short circuit that can result in a fire. >>> So your fix is better than the one the engineers at Ford devised? >> [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Bronco, or the switch in my '97 F150. The engineers are working to correct > the problem of a short circuit that can result in a fire. A short circuit caused by brake fluid leaking into the switch. A short circuit caused by brake fluid leaking into the switch. <<<<< Please explain how brake fluid leaking onto a live wire would cause a short/fire. (even a bare wire)  SignatureJerryD(upstateNY) >A short circuit caused by brake fluid leaking into the switch. <<<<< > > Please explain how brake fluid leaking onto a live wire would cause a > short/fire. (even a bare wire) Jeez....please point out where anyone said that brake fluid was leaking onto a "live wire", and causing a fire. > A short circuit caused by brake fluid leaking into the switch. <<<<< > > Please explain how brake fluid leaking onto a live wire would cause a > short/fire. (even a bare wire) My recall notice says (in part): "Ford cannot be confident that over many years of service, the type of Speed Control Deactivation Switch (SCDS) equipped on your vehicle will not leak, posing the risk of an under hood fire. This condition can occur either when the vehicle is parked or when it is being operated, even if the speed control is not in use. Ford Motor Company has authorized your dealer to install a fused wiring harness into the speed control system of your vehicle free of charge (parts and labor)." I think if you require more explanation than that you should call the Ford Motor Company. SignatureKevin W. Miller http://www.bluemoongemworks.com/rv/index.asp Because brake fluid can absorb moisture and cause a short to ground, thereby overheating the connection and poof! barbecued truck. >A short circuit caused by brake fluid leaking into the switch. <<<<< > > Please explain how brake fluid leaking onto a live wire would cause a > short/fire. (even a bare wire) >> I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not that >> hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread connection. Its a [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > So your fix is better than the one the engineers at Ford devised? > Isn't the "fix" just a fuse that prevents a short from starting a fire? LZ >>> I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not that >>> hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread connection. Its [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Isn't the "fix" just a fuse that prevents a short from starting a fire? > LZ I have no idea what the fix is, why not just ask Whitelightning as he seems to know more about it than Ford does. > I have no idea what the fix is, why not just ask Whitelightning as he > seems to know more about it than Ford does. so Jerry you think putting a bandaid, ie a fuseable link in the wiring harness, rather than fixing the problem which is a switch that leaks brake fluid is the correct way? Your big on critizing here, but I dont see you giving any ideas on correcting this situation. Or do you believe that because some guy has a degree in engineering and is working for the manufacturer his idea has to be the correct one? Do you think cost played any role in this so called corrective action Ford is taking, as in as cheap as possible as opposed to fixing the issue? Me, I am just some shmuck who spent the better part of 30 years fixing cars, medium and heavy duty trucks, tanks, construction equipment, what the hell would I know. Whitelightning I may as well insert my 2 cents. I totally agree with Whitelightening. It appears that, because of the huge number of vehicles involved, Ford chose a simple and cheap 'circumvention' as opposed to a more costly, safer and reliable repair. If you are the owner of a recalled vehicle without a leaking switch; Ford will simply install a fused(this fuse is not replaceable) wiring harness, which will(hopefully) prevent a fire in the event that the switch should leak in the future. If the switch should begin leaking and blow the fuse then both the switch and the wiring harness must be replaced. Hopefully with a different, more reliable and safer configuration. Just because Ford convinced Big Brother(the NHTSA) that this is the right way to go doesn't make it so. >>I have no idea what the fix is, why not just ask Whitelightning as he >>seems to know more about it than Ford does. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Whitelightning >I may as well insert my 2 cents. I totally agree with Whitelightening. It >appears that, because of the huge number of vehicles involved, Ford chose a [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > Just because Ford convinced Big Brother(the NHTSA) that this is the right > way to go doesn't make it so. I don't think Ford had to convince them it was "the right way." They just had to convince them it would correct a safety hazzard. >>>I have no idea what the fix is, why not just ask Whitelightning as he >>>seems to know more about it than Ford does. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] >> >> Whitelightning > I have no idea what the fix is, why not just ask Whitelightning as he > seems to know more about it than Ford does. so Jerry you think putting a bandaid, ie a fuseable link in the wiring harness, rather than fixing the problem which is a switch that leaks brake fluid is the correct way? Your big on critizing here, but I dont see you giving any ideas on correcting this situation. Or do you believe that because some guy has a degree in engineering and is working for the manufacturer his idea has to be the correct one? Do you think cost played any role in this so called corrective action Ford is taking, as in as cheap as possible as opposed to fixing the issue? Me, I am just some shmuck who spent the better part of 30 years fixing cars, medium and heavy duty trucks, tanks, construction equipment, what the hell would I know. Whitelightning My suggestion is to take the vehicle to a Ford dealership when one receives the recall. I believe that some guy working for Ford with an engineering degree knows more about it than you. >> I have no idea what the fix is, why not just ask Whitelightning as he >> seems to know more about it than Ford does. [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Whitelightning I think some of these guys are young and not had the pleasure of working for a major corp. There should be no doubt in anyone, Ford engineers were instructed to fix this as cheaply as possible. Hell, They may not have been told that because it's always implied. Rob > I think some of these guys are young and not had the pleasure of working > for a major corp. There should be no doubt in anyone, Ford engineers were > instructed to fix this as cheaply as possible. Hell, They may not have been > told that because it's always implied. > > Rob That's how engineers justify their salaries. By figuring out the cheapest way to make or fix stuff. LZ >>> I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not that >>> hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread connection. Its [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Isn't the "fix" just a fuse that prevents a short from starting a fire? > LZ Yes. >>> I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not that >>> hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread connection. Its [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Isn't the "fix" just a fuse that prevents a short from starting a fire? > LZ Yes. >>> I realize this is a big thing, and rightly so. But the fix is not >>> that hard people. The damn thing has a 1/4 inch pipe thread [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Isn't the "fix" just a fuse that prevents a short from starting a fire? > LZ If it's the same as the fix applied to my F150, yes - an inline fuse to prevent a short in the switch from starting a fire. It might not be kosher, but I stood next the the service manager while he installed it, and discussed just what he was doing. -Raf SignatureMisifus- Rafael Seibert mailto:rafseibert@suddenlink.net blog: http://rafsrincon.blogspot.com/ Photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/rafiii home: http://www.rafandsioux.com >I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on the Ford Class A Motorhome >Chassis with a 6.8L Ford Triton V10 engine. The following photo is of the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > http://home.mindspring.com/%7Etomcom/V10/6.8L_Ford_Triton_V10.jpg Had same recall on 1992 E250 van. Turns out the switch was underneath by the frame. I had the dealer disconnect it as no parts until December. Instead of replacing the crap switch they are adding a fusible wire in series so when the switch fails and blows the fuse you will need to get it replaced and also the switch. I assume of course then it will be at my expense. > >I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on theFordClass A Motorhome > >Chassis with a 6.8LFordTriton V10 engine. The following photo is of the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > when the switch fails and blows the fuse you will need to get it replaced > and also the switch. I assume of course then it will be at my expense. Can someone please tell me where this switch is located? I have a 93 E-150 and just want to get a friend to disconnect it. My van is adapted because I'm a wheelchair user and I don't trust just anyone tinkering with it (even a dealer). The cruise never worked since I bought the van used 7 years ago. But I'm concerned about the possibility of it catching on fire because I can't run! TIA >> >I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on theFordClass A >> >Motorhome Chassis with a 6.8LFordTriton V10 engine. The following [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > used 7 years ago. But I'm concerned about the possibility of it > catching on fire because I can't run! TIA It's either on the master cylinder, or plumbed into one of the brake lines. >> >I own a 2002 Winnebago Adventurer 35U built on theFordClass A Motorhome >> >Chassis with a 6.8LFordTriton V10 engine. The following photo is of the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > bought the van used 7 years ago. But I'm concerned about the > possibility of it catching on fire because I can't run! TIA The switch is physically mounted to the Master Cylinder, or on one of the brake pipes coming out of it. On my Bronco and on my F150 -- a '95 and '97, respectively -- the switch is on the "snout" of the master cylinder. The brake pedal is attached to a piston that enters the master cylinder at one end, the brake switch is mounted to the opposite end, either directly on the master cylinder, or on the brake pipe that is connected where the switch would be if it was on the master cylinder. There are brake pipes that come out of the sides of the master cylinder too, but none of these pipes has the switch mounted to them. > > Can someone please tell me where this switch is located? I have a 93 > > E-150 and just want to get a friend to disconnect it. My van is > > adapted because I'm a wheelchair user and I don't trust just anyone > > tinkering with it (even a dealer). The cruise never worked since I > > bought the van used 7 years ago. But I'm concerned about the > > possibility of it catching on fire because I can't run! TIA Thanks for all the replies; I appreciate the info.
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