PLASTIC WATER TANK FITTINGS

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Bill - 15 Dec 2007 17:22 GMT

Okay, so I go to fill the fresh water for the first time. I find that
the fresh water tank drain is broken off at the fitting almost flush
with the tank. This seems to be removable as if it can be unthreaded
however were I to remove it and some internal plastic nut fall away
I'd have no real options. Leaving the sheared piece in place I could
cut some PVC fitting into both pieces and possibly make a seal. Are
the threads in the plastic tank itself? If so I can simply replace
that fitting.

Ya know you'd think they'd have put a shelf for the power supply
instead of sitting it on the same floor level as the water tank.

Bill

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IlBeBauck@gmail.com - 15 Dec 2007 18:08 GMT

> Okay, so I go to fill the fresh water for the first time. I find that
> the fresh water tank drain is broken off at the fitting almost flush
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Bill

REPLY: Bill, A product which works REALLY good is RV GOOP. Its
intended for plastics. Ive used it extensively and it drys rock hard
and seals excellently. Withstands alot of pressure too. Id try that
on your fitting and let it dry overnight. Clean it up good first with
sandpaper and isopropyl alchohol. Get it at Menards Stores. $4.00

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Bill - 17 Dec 2007 10:51 GMT

On Dec 15, 1:08 pm, IlBeBa...@gmail.com wrote:

> > Okay, so I go to fill the fresh water for the first time. I find that
> > the fresh water tank drain is broken off at the fitting almost flush
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> on your fitting and let it dry overnight. Clean it up good first with
> sandpaper and isopropyl alchohol. Get it at Menards Stores. $4.00

I have it drying with J-B Weld, recommended by a clerk in Lowes, right
now.

Bill

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JerryD(upstateNY) - 15 Dec 2007 18:36 GMT

This seems to be removable as if it can be unthreaded however were I to
remove it and some internal plastic nut fall away I'd have no real
options<<<

They would never put a nut where you couldn't reach it.
So unless that tank has a removable top on it, there is no nut inside.
This would be the perfect place to use an easy-out. (or whatever they call
them today)
It's made to remove broken bolts but should work fine removing that broken
fitting.
Sears has them.
http://www.toolprice.com/c=8kWgMMFsROLUCpsPTLjpaJhfL/category/screwextractors.sp
iraleasyout/

Signature

JerryD(upstateNY)

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R.J.(Bob) Evans - 22 Dec 2007 14:10 GMT

>with the tank. This seems to be removable as if it can be unthreaded
>however were I to remove it and some internal plastic nut fall away
>I'd have no real options. Leaving the sheared piece in place I could
>cut some PVC fitting into both pieces and possibly make a seal. Are
>the threads in the plastic tank itself? If so I can simply replace
>that fitting.

A lot of those fitting are "spin welded" into the tank. The fitting
is set into a hole that is a close fit and then spun rapidly to fuse
the plastic fitting to the tank.

The other possibility is that it is a bulkhead fitting in which case
it should have a nut on the outside and a backing gasket & flange on
the inside. This doesn't sound like what you have unless some goof
has put a bulkhead in backwards.

My guess is a spin welded fitting - you should phone an RV shop and
see if they can spin a new fitting in for you.

Signature

R.J.(Bob) Evans
(return address needs alteration to work)
http://travellingwithgeorge.blogspot.com/

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Bill - 23 Dec 2007 02:34 GMT

> >with the tank. This seems to be removable as if it can be unthreaded
> >however were I to remove it and some internal plastic nut fall away
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> R.J.(Bob) Evans
> (return address needs alteration to work)http://travellingwithgeorge.blogspot.com/

The fitting was spin welded. Repair was with JB Weld epoxy. Then the
drain outside broke, that took the repair with JB Weld okay. Had a
scare when I went to troubleshoot a slow leak on a front tire.
Jacking up the front I hear water hitting the ground and quickly
jumped to disconnect from house power. I was sure one of my repairs
had gone bad and water was welling up around my power supply. Turned
out to be water off the roof. Couldn't find the slow leak in the tire
tho. I suspect it might be the rim as the tire is so new the little
rubber 'flags' if you will, are still there.

I'm on the road just now running to LI from Georgia for Christmas
week. I think I may have underestimated my travel time. I fired up
my laptop only to find the battery had gone dead. I hadn't gotten
around to putting 12v outlets for an inverter on the cabin battery so
am using the engine compartment battery. Actually I have a minor
problem there.

The old setup had two solenoids on the fire wall both seeming to go
the rear but didn't show continuity. I put in an isolator. This '83
Chevy 30 is suppose to have a diode between the alternator and battery/
starter. The cabin had 15.4 v before the isolator. I put both inputs
to the solenoids to a single output and the regular alternator output
to the other with the alternator output to the center. Now the
alternator puts out over 16v but at least my cabin battery is only
getting 14.5 volts. I think I shouldn't put the dash line through a
diode but jump it. Anyone know where I can find that stock diode? If
I can find it I can measure if there is an alternate path somewhere
jumping it out.

Bill

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