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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / May 20085.20 vs 5.30 motor oil
My 2005 motorhome has a ford triton v10 engine and the manual sais to use 5.20 motoroil. Cost per liter is 3.99 Can. at Canadian Tire. Wallmart sells 5 liters 5.30 oil for 10.86. Almost 50% less. Can I use 5.30 instead of 5.20 oil????. jv. jessv1@uniserve.com (Jess Vanderveen) wrote in news:4825da9a.102418937 @news.uniserve.com: > My 2005 motorhome has a ford triton v10 engine and the manual > sais to use 5.20 motoroil. Cost per liter is 3.99 Can. at Canadian > Tire. Wallmart sells 5 liters 5.30 oil for 10.86. > Almost 50% less. > Can I use 5.30 instead of 5.20 oil????. > jv. Doesn't the manual list the 5-20 for Winter/Cold weather? > My 2005 motorhome has a ford triton v10 engine and the manual > sais to use 5.20 motoroil. Cost per liter is 3.99 Can. at Canadian > Tire. Wallmart sells 5 liters 5.30 oil for 10.86. > Almost 50% less. > Can I use 5.30 instead of 5.20 oil????. > jv. My 2003 MH built on a 2002 chassis requires 5W20. I had the oil changed at a Winnebago dealer the 1st time and they used 10W30 and when the engine first started it was noisy. I immediately had the oil changed at a Ford dealer and the noise went away. On the next oil change I started using 5w20 full synthetic and have been using it since. That's an expensive engine!!! Ron ACTUALLY you'd be a lot better off using a straight 30 or even 10-40. (although personally i won't pour multiviscosity oil on the ground) The only reason the manufacturer recommends that water oil is for mileage ratings. Do your engine a favor and use good ol' 10w40 or straight 30. s > My 2005 motorhome has a ford triton v10 engine and the manual > sais to use 5.20 motoroil. Cost per liter is 3.99 Can. at Canadian > Tire. Wallmart sells 5 liters 5.30 oil for 10.86. > Almost 50% less. > Can I use 5.30 instead of 5.20 oil????. > jv. > ACTUALLY you'd be a lot better off using a straight 30 or even 10-40. > (although personally i won't pour multiviscosity oil on the ground) The only [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> Can I use 5.30 instead of 5.20 oil????. >> jv. That sounds like really bad advice. Do you have any basis for that opinion? John Andrews, Knoxville, Tennessee 30+ years of rebuilding engines and being an ASE certified master mechanic. Other than that just the knowledge that engines are still made from cast iron, and aluminum and the basic principles of the interior of them has not changed since the 40's. I have also maintained fleets of dozens of modern vechiles and have never used anything other than name brand (no, not the penzoil crap) straight 30 oil. Other than all that, no. s > That sounds like really bad advice. Do you have any basis for that > opinion? > > John Andrews, Knoxville, Tennessee > ACTUALLY you'd be a lot better off using a straight 30 or even 10-40. > (although personally i won't pour multiviscosity oil on the ground) The > only reason the manufacturer recommends that water oil is for mileage > ratings. Do your engine a favor and use good ol' 10w40 or straight 30. Modern engines are built to much tighter tolerances than older engines. 10W-30 or straight 30 may not flow through those tight tolerances well enough to lubricate the engine properly. About the only engines recommending straight 30 oil any more are lawn mower engines. If the manufacturer recommends 5W-20, use it. Even pricey oil is cheap compared to a seized engine. Paul Johnson ACTUALLY no they're not. steve > Modern engines are built to much tighter tolerances than older engines. >> Paul Johnson ACTUALLY, if there's any change at all, it's to build them a bit looser to lower friction and help with their MPG ratings. We already saw that in the mid '80's with the advent of the lo-tension piston rings. s > Modern engines are built to much tighter tolerances than older engines. > Paul Johnson > ACTUALLY, if there's any change at all, it's to build them a bit looser to > lower friction and help with their MPG ratings. �We already saw that in the > mid '80's with the advent of the lo-tension piston rings. > > s You make some very interesting points and I tend to agree. But, I am not sure it makes a whole lot of difference to the everyday average driver. I can see how lower viscosity oils can flow more freely, therefore transfering heat better (and possibly producing less friction) in the more high performance engines that turn 12K rpms. I also believe that synthetic oils transfer heat and have less friction than the standard oils. Again, I am not sure they are worth the price for the average Joe as compared to the racers. The price difference between 10-30, 10-40 or 10-20 or even straight 30 isn't much different here in Ohio. I use 10-20 in my 2004 Ford V-10 Triton only because it is what the manufacturer recommends. Hank <~~~thinks the builder is a little smarter > > ACTUALLY, if there's any change at all, it's to build them a bit looser to > > lower friction and help with their MPG ratings. �We already saw that in the [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > Hank <~~~thinks the builder is a little smarter The first number only applies when the engine is cold. What you do not know is the cold viscosity of straight weight but it is usually higher than the multi grade. 10W30 at 32F has the same visocisty as straight weight 10 at 32F and it has the same visosity as straight weight 30 at 212F. The problem with conventional multiweight is that it uses polymers that do not provide as much lubrication. Synthetic on the other hand get the multi grade without the use of those polymers. However, when 5W20 is recommended I would not go higher than straight 20 weight. That is the viscosity it is at most of the time. If cold weather starting is a problem better stick with the 5W20. For even easier starting go for the fullly synthetic 0W20.
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