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Car Forum / Driving, Maintenance, Tuning / RVs / June 2008LP Fridge issue?
Our LP fridge in the HR seems to me to be acting up and I can't figure out why. It will run for a while and then go to the "F" (Fail) state which means the pilot went out. It may re-light for a bit, or just continually try and light and then return to the "F" state. The range works fine but of course that's not as touchy as a fridge. In searching I saw some info that it could be caused by running LP tanks that need purged, which I did last time I had them filled. Stood there and watched they guy so I know they were in fact purged. It was ok for a while but just started doing it again over the weekend. I opened the access cover and everything in there looked very clean. No nests, etc. Works fine on 110 but I'd prefer not to run the generator 24x7 and we don't have electricity at our camp. Any ideas what may be doing it? Could I have a bad regulator possibly? TIA, Steve >Our LP fridge in the HR seems to me to be acting up . . . Let's start out with basic useful diagnositic data such as year, make, model, kind of stuff . . . >> Our LP fridge in the HR seems to me to be acting up . . . > > Let's start out with basic useful diagnositic data such as year, make, > model, kind of stuff . . . yeah, I shoulda put that in but thought maybe it was a "general" type of problem. Trailer: 2002 - 34' HR Alumascape TT. Fridge/freezer: well, I'm not totally sure of the model # 'cause I left the freekin' books up at the camp - DUH! BUT, if it's not this one, it's just an older model of the same unit. http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-refrigerators/rv-refrigerator-norcold-n841.htm >>> Our LP fridge in the HR seems to me to be acting up . . . >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > >http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-refrigerators/rv-refrigerator-norcold-n841.htm Go to <www.rvmobile.com> They have good diagnostics on their web site. George > Go to <www.rvmobile.com> They have good diagnostics on their web > site. > > George Thanks George. Been there. No reference to this type of problem. -- Steve >> Go to <www.rvmobile.com> They have good diagnostics on their web >> site. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > -- > Steve Propane powered refrigerators have automatic shut down features for safety purposes. This is because propane that leaks out into the environment is very explosive and many RVs get blown to bits by propane leaks. As a matter of fact, propane fires and explosions are the number one cause of insurance claims to GMAC with regards to RVs. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0EIN/is_2005_July_1/ai_n14709646 You should not attempt to diagnose or repair your unit. You should rely on an expert for your own well being and that of your loved ones. Would you try to take out your own appendix or would you let a qualified surgeon do it? So why would you try to fix your faulty propane fridge? It could kill you just as fast if you blotched the job. And neglecting to get the unit fixed by a qualified repairman could kill you by omission just as easily. I'll sleep better knowing you did the right thing. Harry Harris ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** >Trailer: 2002 - 34' HR Alumascape TT. That's at least somewhat useful. You can forget all that thermocouple stuff, since a fridge of that era would implement flame sensors. >Fridge/freezer: well, I'm not totally sure of the model # 'cause I left >the freekin' books up at the camp - DUH! BUT, if it's not this one, >it's just an older model of the same unit. Okay, assuming that you still have a good 2-1/2" flame; and the sensor rods in the middle of the flame are glowing red hot: 1. Give the flame sensor rods a *thorough* cleaning and polishing with fine abrasive such as #600 emery cloth. Over the years, dust and sand landing on the heated sensor rods, predictably turns into glass, turning the sensors into glass-insulated sensors, and that doesn't work; 2. The gap between the duel purpose sparker/ sensing rods is critical. While the gap normally runs around 3/16", if that doesn't work, then try closing them up a bit to 2/16" and see if that makes a difference. 3. If that doesn't work, do a major clean up job on all of the ground connections. At such low voltages, it doesn't take much corrosion to compromise the ground connections. And that requires doing the gas valve connections as well. On Jun 18, 3:59�pm, stan.bi...@hotmail.com wrote: > Okay, assuming that you still have a good 2-1/2" flame; and the sensor > rods in the middle of the flame are glowing red hot: [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > compromise the ground connections. And that requires doing the gas > valve connections as well. I am confused........again. Isn't a "flame sensor" the same thing as a thermocouple? If not, please explain the difference. Also, isn't 2/16 inches the same as 1/8 inches? If not, please explain. Hank <~~~don't understand todays terms >> Trailer: 2002 - 34' HR Alumascape TT. > > That's at least somewhat useful. You can forget all that thermocouple > stuff, since a fridge of that era would implement flame sensors. <snip> Thanks Stan. Printed out and will go up with us when we head up for the week. -- Steve Maybe clean off the thermocouple(thermopile?)  SignatureAll the Best Dale Miller Tennessee ASP since February 2005 stpatrick2spam@twlakes.net stpatrick3spam@twlakes.net stpatrick3spam@gmail.com (cut the spam to reply) VOTE TO REBUILD! www.twintowersalliance.com ---- > Maybe clean off the thermocouple(thermopile?) > > -- > All the Best > Dale Miller I agree Dale. The cleaning/positioning/replacing of the thermocouple would be the second/third thing I would do after making sure the jet wasn't clogged and the igniter was working. Hank On Jun 16, 7:19?pm, Dale Miller <stpatrick2s...@twlakes.net> wrote: > Maybe clean off the thermocouple(thermopile?) > > -- > All the Best > Dale Miller I agree Dale. The cleaning/positioning/replacing of the thermocouple would be the second/third thing I would do after making sure the jet wasn't clogged and the igniter was working. Hank = = Each spring I find an accumulation of rust flakes sitting on the mesh around the flame. The result is the flame does not burn steadily and is not hot enough to activate the thermocouple. My solution is to rap on the chimney a few times to knock out remaining loose rust then blow out the area with compressed air and adjust the thermocouple gap if necessary. This process has always given us a full season's trouble free fridge operation - so far. Good luck. SignatureGreg Harrison www.bobog.org Near Edmonton, Alberta (remove the 9 to reply) > On Jun 16, 7:19?pm, Dale Miller <stpatrick2s...@twlakes.net> wrote: >> Maybe clean off the thermocouple(thermopile?) [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Good luck. ok, thanks. Something to check when I get back up for the 4th. Wish I'da remembered to bring the manuals home so I could read up on the thermocouple access/cleaning/adjusting procedures. I'll check the Norcold site. Thanks Steve > Our LP fridge in the HR seems to me to be acting up and I can't figure out > why. It will run for a while and then go to the "F" (Fail) state which [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > TIA, > Steve Looks like another propane fireball in the works. Invite Harry Harris over to work on it. > Looks like another propane fireball in the works. Invite Harry Harris over > to work on it. Who? Oh... you mean one of the first people who were installed in my filters.... sorry it took me a bit to connect it... > Our LP fridge in the HR seems to me to be acting up and I can't figure out > why. It will run for a while and then go to the "F" (Fail) state which [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > Any ideas what may be doing it? Could I have a bad regulator possibly? Propane powered refrigerators have automatic shut down features for safety purposes. This is because propane that leaks out into the environment is very explosive and many RVs get blown to bits by propane leaks. As a matter of fact, propane fires and explosions are the number one cause of insurance claims to GMAC with regards to RVs. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0EIN/is_2005_July_1/ai_n14709646 You should not attempt to diagnose or repair your unit. You should rely on an expert for your own well being and that of your loved ones. Would you try to take out your own appendix or would you let a qualified surgeon do it? So why would you try to fix your faulty propane fridge? It could kill you just as fast if you blotched the job. And neglecting to get the unit fixed by a qualified repairman could kill you by omission just as easily. I'll sleep better knowing you did the right thing. Harry Harris ** Posted from http://www.teranews.com ** |
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