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Car Forum / Saab Cars / July 2004

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How to clear/clean mold off a 900 (power) hood ?

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Bloke - 24 Jul 2004 11:58 GMT
Hi all,

I recently bought a 2nd hand 900 (1992), with a power hood.  it has some
mold spots on the hood, near where it meets the boot.  Is there any advice
on what to use to clean/get rid of these moldy spots ?  My local Saab dealer
just says use soap and water, but is that really good enough ?  I am in the
U.K., by the way.

All thoughts appreciated.

Thanks,

Iain.
Bobette - 24 Jul 2004 22:03 GMT
"I recently bought a 2nd hand 900 (1992), with a power hood.  it has some
mold spots on the hood, near where it meets the boot.  Is there any advice
on what to use to clean/get rid of these moldy spots ?  My local Saab dealer
just says use soap and water, but is that really good enough ?"

No "Bloke" - you are quite right to hesitate.. Your local Saab dealer is an
idiot - how could ordinary soap and water be good enough for your 2nd hand
900 (with a power hood). . You should only ever use the special Saab "power
hood mold remover" that came with the car. And don't forget to apply it with
the special Saab power hood mold remover tool....
Nasty Bob - 25 Jul 2004 12:36 GMT
Any Saab enthusiast worth his salt will tell you to only use special Saab
power hood mold remover. And don't forget to use the special Saab power hood
mold remover tool in your toolkit.

"I recently bought a 2nd hand 900 (1992), with a power hood.  it has some
mold spots on the hood, near where it meets the boot.  Is there any advice
on what to use to clean/get rid of these moldy spots ?  My local Saab dealer
just says use soap and water, but is that really good enough ?
All thoughts appreciated."
MeatballTurbo - 25 Jul 2004 15:58 GMT
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Iain.

Iain, not sure of brand names, but there are refurb/cleaning products
that owners swear by. Someone with a ragtop will reply. It is advertised
in most of the classic mags, and in the Saab Driver magazine.

Soap and water would remove it, as long as it has time to dry properly,
but it will require a decent treatment/refurb afterwards.

Ignore Nasty Bob/Bobette. Never heard of them before in this group, and
it has just a hint of a troll.

Sorry couldn't recommend a brand, but I'm a tintop 900 owner, not a
convert, sorry.

Signature

Carl Robson
(The poster formerly known as Skodapilot)
http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

9-3Turbo - 26 Jul 2004 06:57 GMT
Yea if you take a look at the ip addresses of Nasty Bob and Bobette, the
seem to be similair.  Actually the same.

> > Hi all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Sorry couldn't recommend a brand, but I'm a tintop 900 owner, not a
> convert, sorry.
- Bob - - 26 Jul 2004 21:24 GMT
>Iain, not sure of brand names, but there are refurb/cleaning products
>that owners swear by. Someone with a ragtop will reply. It is advertised
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>Sorry couldn't recommend a brand, but I'm a tintop 900 owner, not a
>convert, sorry.

Personally, I think you need to "kill" the wold. On anything but a rag
top I might use bleach. You need something similar without the caustic
and color removal effects.

After you get it cleaned, you might want to use Renuvo rag top
treatment on it.  I buy mine from the link below... you probably want
a OK source though. There are also other products available but most
are spray  - I like the brush on type since I can work them into the
fabric. Reapply every 6 months.

http://www.properautocare.com

the brush on type
MeatballTurbo - 27 Jul 2004 08:42 GMT
> After you get it cleaned, you might want to use Renuvo rag top
> treatment on it.  I buy mine from the link below... you probably want
> a OK source though. There are also other products available but most
> are spray  - I like the brush on type since I can work them into the
> fabric. Reapply every 6 months.

Thats the stuff I meant.

Cheers Bob.

On the subject of killing it, using a steam buggy/home steam cleaner
should do that shouldn't it, it should sterilise the fabric? Should be
safe on the roof fabric too, as long as you keep removing the mouldy
damp area with a cloth to dry it, then treat it with the renuvo.
Signature

The poster formerly known as Skodapilot.
http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Fritz001k - 25 Jul 2004 23:25 GMT
I find that a power chisel works great "the first time".
> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Iain.
dave - 27 Jul 2004 22:34 GMT
Well, It would appear someone parked your ragtop under a tree regularly.
Use warm soapy water and a regular scrub brush over the entire top.  Pay
particular attention to the mouldy spots.  Rinse very thoroughly.  Wait for
a while to see if the mold reoccurs.  If the mold reoccurs use a solution of
white vinegar to kill off the mold.  Do not get any vinegar on the bodywork.
If the top is original, you will likely find the rear glass unattached to
the fabric.  In the U.S I would try "Shoe-Goo" to seal the glass, I'm sure
there is something similar locally.  After the glass is sealed, I would use
tent sealer, regular silicone spray, or some other fabric waterproofing
stuff.  Be particularly heavy with application near the leading edge of the
top.  Don't get the stuff on the body work, it makes smudges that are tough
to clean off, trust me on that one.  In my experience tent spray lasts about
4 months or so.  Regular "convertible top" sealer lasts 6 months or so, at a
much greater cost.  The silicone spray / sealer will keep the mold away if
the top gets to dry off regularly.

dave

> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Iain.
 
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