Again, go for the google archives.
I asked here for my last MOT, and the resident Mastertech broke it down.

Best advice is new pads first.
I had a set of Ferodos that I bought from Halfords, but they aren't that
great, and Pagids from Parts for Saabs or German and Swedish are much
cheaper, google the URLs.

if you go for Parts for Saabs, they have the special tool on the site to
wind the pistons back in, much easier than the circlip pliers I had to
use.

take off wheel, turn disk till the notch is between pads, pull the old
pads (R clip and tap out the u-bar and lift off the pad cover).

Fit the outside pad, and if the inside one goes straight in easily,
remove and wind out the piston a touch. the inside one should be a
fairly tight and be tapped in.

Do both sides, then pump the pedal about 6 times, then click on the
handbrake about 4, then another 6 pumps, and 4 more clicks till it
locks. Don't worry about the amount of clicks. That can't fail it, and
the handle actually goes almost vertical.

You might need to do it for a few times before it works, sometimes
repeating upto 5 or six times.

What I tend to do is then disconnect one side, and with the handbrake on
try to push the car. Then swap sides over. If you can move it, no way it
will pass. If it rock solid out of gear on one side of the handbrake, it
should pass no bother. Mine did. just make sure to reconnect both sides
before the retest.

Mine never lasts long, especially the passenger side (on mine), but it
will pass the test.

Check the earth for the fog light, saloons had a rear earth point issue
and there is a known fix.

If the front tyres are good depth, get them swapped to the rear, and get
a decent pair for the front.

I did both sides in a couple of hours including swapping and bleeding a
leaky caliper, and I'm not the most mechanically adept. First time I
swapped a caliper took me 4 hours. Just remember to take the top of the
fluid for when you push back in.