Hi again !
Please see part one for the background !
Any help with the following questions would be much appreciated.
Electrical problems !
1. Heated rear window / mirrors don't work
Push the switch and the illumination briefly brightens then dims again
after releasing. Assume a defective time delay relay.
Comments ?
2. How do you get to the relays ?
Have a Haynes ( yuck ) manual somewhere. Suggests that the top of the
dash can be removed to access various bits inside. Can't see how it's
done. Is this how you access the relay box behind the glove compartment
?
3. Miscellaneous illumination missing.
Bulbs obviously blown - car's actual mileage is around 155k instead of
indicated 110k, so no surprise.
Access to panel is tricky - see above - also I got a few spare control
panels off Ebay like the heater control panel - yet can't figure how to
replace bulbs. Is ther some voodoo involved ?
4. Headlights.
Main beam inoperative - well - explanation. There are 4 bulbs in the
headlights. Only the inner 2 illuminate. The dip / full switch has an
effect - it dims the 2 inner bulbs on dip setting and that's about it !
The blue main beam light on the dash doesn't illuminate.
No reason to suspect the outer bulbs are blown as there is no indication
on the dash ( which has indicated a blown stop lamp - the high level one
it seems ).
5. Heater fan
Only works on position 4. Seems likely the resistor pack has gone u/s.
Believe this is also behind the dash. Hence I need to get there !
6. AC
Kinda hopeful that the AC might work but of course it doesn't ! Not ACC
btw.
The AC switch appears to do nothing - zilch. But turning the fan to on (
position 4 only currently ) causes the engine to momentarily drop in
revs and then speed up as if expecting the load. Regardless of whether
the AC switch is pressed or not !
Ideas ?
7. Trip computer display on dash
Nothing visible. Wondering if it's trying to tell me there's a problem
with the engine management ! Maybe just rear illumination blown ? Once
again need access to the bits.
Help !
I think this is the worst of it for now !
Thanks in advance for any help.
Graham
Kristian Steve Jensen - 14 Nov 2004 17:00 GMT
> Hi again !
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> done. Is this how you access the relay box behind the glove compartment
> ?
Either that, or remove the glove box. Removing the dash top is very easy.
First, pry of the trim on the A-pillars, you can just pull them right off.
Remove the speaker grilles, now you should see three screws around each
speaker that holds the dash top. Another screw is located to the left of the
glove box behind a rubber plug (open the glove box to see it) and the final
screw is above the instrument cluster under the dash top, just feel around
and you should find it.
> 3. Miscellaneous illumination missing.
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> panels off Ebay like the heater control panel - yet can't figure how to
> replace bulbs. Is ther some voodoo involved ?
If this is instrument lights you're referring to, you should be able to get
the instruments out with the dash top removed. Just be careful not to lose
the rubber feet at the bottom of the cluster, you might want to glue them in
place before you fit the cluster back in place. You may have to remove some
of the multiplugs to the cluster, just be sure to make a note of where they
should be.
Heater panel is easy, just pull the controls straight out, and you can see
the screws. Unscrew, replace bulbs, refit in reverse order.
> 4. Headlights.
>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Only works on position 4. Seems likely the resistor pack has gone u/s.
> Believe this is also behind the dash. Hence I need to get there !
I had hoped I had helped you by now ;)
> 6. AC
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> with the engine management ! Maybe just rear illumination blown ? Once
> again need access to the bits.
Replace the bulbs as noted above.
> Help !
>
> I think this is the worst of it for now !
>
> Thanks in advance for any help.
Don't mention it.
Kristian
Paul Brownjohn - 14 Nov 2004 23:15 GMT
> 5. Heater fan
>
> Only works on position 4. Seems likely the resistor pack has gone u/s.
> Believe this is also behind the dash. Hence I need to get there !
The resistor for the heater fan used to be under the bonnet under a
panel that is hard up against the bottom of the windscreen (sort of). It
is held on by 6 or so little bolts. Under it is (or used to be on 1991
9000s) the heater blower with the resistor kinda stuffed into the side
of it, along with the windscreen wiper motor and some other bits and pieces.
> 6. AC
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Ideas ?
The AC will not work if the the resistor has gone(item 5 above).
Therefore, first fix your resistor......
> Hi again !
>
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> Only works on position 4. Seems likely the resistor pack has gone u/s.
> Believe this is also behind the dash. Hence I need to get there !
The resistor for the heater fan used to be under the
> 6. AC
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Graham
Johannes H Andersen - 20 Nov 2004 20:24 GMT
> Hi again !
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> 1. Heated rear window / mirrors don't work
Oxidation on the fuses. Try scraping the fuse connectors.
> 2. How do you get to the relays ?
It may not be necessary.
> 3. Miscellaneous illumination missing.
Replace bulbs.
> 4. Headlights.
Again, I expect oxidation around the plug connectors.
> 5. Heater fan
Well known issue on many cars, not just saab. You can replace the
resistor pack in the blower housing, it easily plugs in from outside the
plastic housing. Remove the large plastic shield across the firewall to
get the the blower housing. However, resistor pack costs about £60 from
the dealer, so another possibility is to repair it. I have a duff one
which I intent to repair, once I know more details.
> 6. AC
Probably just need a re-charging. Saab says it should be re-charged
once a year, but at around £100 a go this may be a bit over the top.
But if it hasn't been recharged for 3 or more years, then that's the
problem.
> 7. Trip computer display on dash
Dunno, mine works OK (luckily). This may require some detective work.
All sounds a bit like my Saab, 1993 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT.
Pooh Bear - 27 Nov 2004 02:19 GMT
< snip >
> All sounds a bit like my Saab, 1993 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT.
Not Saab's best vintage year ? ;-)
Cheers, Graham
And many thanks to all who have contributed their hints, tips and advice.
Wish I'd thought of looking for a Saab ng earlier !
Johannes H Andersen - 27 Nov 2004 11:05 GMT
> < snip >
>
> > All sounds a bit like my Saab, 1993 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT.
>
> Not Saab's best vintage year ? ;-)
Hm, a small straw can easily upset the cart. Not many cars are running
so well at that age. This is the best car I've had so far; none of my
other cars lasted that well and taken all that abuse.
KeithG - 20 Nov 2004 22:39 GMT
Pooh,
Bookmark this site.
http://www.quasimotors.com/
it'll help you get through the small and some large problems on your 9k.
I am on my second one. Great cars, but they do have a personality and do
require tending to. If you let the little things go, it gets angry then
breaks other more expensive stuff. ;-)
The invisible EDU in the dash (below the speedometer) may be a dead
phototransistor in the clock unit. The device controls the brightness of
the EDU and SCC (trip computer if yours has one instead of the analog
clock). Here on this side of the pond, we can get a replacement Infrared
Photo transistor and solder it on the board to fix it. If you short the
2 pin transistor, it goes to full bright. This would be a good test.
KeithG
> Hi again !
Pooh Bear - 27 Nov 2004 02:13 GMT
> Pooh,
>
> Bookmark this site.
>
> http://www.quasimotors.com/
Hmmm, can't reach this site currently.
> it'll help you get through the small and some large problems on your 9k.
> I am on my second one. Great cars, but they do have a personality and do
> require tending to. If you let the little things go, it gets angry then
> breaks other more expensive stuff. ;-)
I bet.
My first 9000 is clearly a bit of a lemon. Nice enought to want to try
another though. I actually was looking at an apparently superbly maintained
Aero originally but lost it to another buyer.
> The invisible EDU in the dash (below the speedometer) may be a dead
> phototransistor in the clock unit. The device controls the brightness of
> the EDU and SCC (trip computer if yours has one instead of the analog
> clock). Here on this side of the pond, we can get a replacement Infrared
> Photo transistor and solder it on the board to fix it. If you short the
> 2 pin transistor, it goes to full bright. This would be a good test.
That's a handy tip !
By chance I acquired a 'spare' trip computer ( along with a few switches and
stuff ) off ebay a while back in case the trouble did indeed lie there. It
was under £10 IIRC.
Cheers, Graham
Yaofeng - 23 Nov 2004 23:36 GMT
> Hi again !
>
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> done. Is this how you access the relay box behind the glove compartment
> ?
There are two relay boxes under the hood and one relay cluster behind
the fuse panel. Remove the felt trim and cover for the fuse panel to
expose the relay cluster. The headlight relay box is infront of the
battery. Another is hooked to the false bulkhead.
> 3. Miscellaneous illumination missing.
>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> on the dash ( which has indicated a blown stop lamp - the high level one
> it seems ).
Likely the headlight relay in the relay box in front of the battery
has a cracked solder joint. Pull the relay to open it up and examine.
Takes five minutes to resolder the cracked joint.
> 5. Heater fan
>
> Only works on position 4. Seems likely the resistor pack has gone u/s.
> Believe this is also behind the dash. Hence I need to get there !
No ACC? Sorry. Mine has no dials, just buttons.
> 6. AC
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Ideas ?
R22 or R134? Check you freon charge.
> 7. Trip computer display on dash
>
> Nothing visible. Wondering if it's trying to tell me there's a problem
> with the engine management ! Maybe just rear illumination blown ? Once
> again need access to the bits.
You need to open the dash top to pull the EDU behind the instrument
cluster. The dash top is easy to remove, two screws on either side
after removing the speaker grill and two more on the front edge. One
of the two on the front edge is in a recess on the right hand side of
the instrument cluster. Another is behind the SRS tag on the
passenger side airbag. I am speaking about the US model. Those with
steering column on the wrong side maybe different.
In order to remove the speaker grills, you need to remove the felt
trim on the front pillar. Pry the trim out at the top and pull up
toward you sitting in the front seat to remove the felt trim. Be
gentle. There are three plastic plugs fastening the trim to the
pillar.
> Help !
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Graham