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Car Forum / Saab Cars / January 2005

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Crankshaft Pulley 85' C900 Turbo

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LC - 14 Jan 2005 02:09 GMT
I made another post on here about a car I looked at, and am still planning
on buying..

It had some noisy belts when I checked it out.  It feels like seattle here
in indianapolis as of late, where the rain just seems to be non-stop.  The
belts squeaked a little for a second or two, then would stop, and randomly
start again for a second or two then stop.   After I got going on the road,
5-6 mins later(with traffic and all), and I got up to speed, it stopped
totally.  The owner told me they were a little loose.

My question is.. what causes the failure?  It it hard to fix?  What should I
expect to pay someone to fix it for me?

Thanks!
-LC
John B - 14 Jan 2005 02:28 GMT
> My question is.. what causes the failure?  It it hard to fix?  What should I
> expect to pay someone to fix it for me?

Ok, everything I'm about to write is based on the assumption that it is the
crankshaft pulley (as I suggested in another thread). But you should first
check the belts and make sure they're not the source the noise, since that's
easy and cheap to fix.

The crank pulley has inner and outer parts joined by rubber, which dampens
vibration. When it gets old, the outer part begins to slip relative to the
inner part, which squeaks. This is generally worse when the engine is cold;
when it warms up the rubber gets sticky and slips less. Eventually it will
fail altogether and you will be stranded somewhere.

Replacing it involves removing the belts, maybe moving the AC compressor aside,
blocking the engine flywheel so it can't spin, and getting the relevant nut
loose. I tried this repair once and failed, due to lacking the proper tool (a
shallow socket, 27 mm I think). There isn't much room to work between the
engine and the firewall. If you want to try it yourself, make sure you have the
right tools and the Bentley manual. Also take a look at the documents on the
townsendimports.com site.

Currently:
http://68.155.228.235/engine_folder/front_crank_seal900.htm

... but it's on a dynamic IP.

If you pay someone to do it, I think it'll cost you at least a few hundred
dollars (US). The replacement pulley alone is around $80 if memory serves.

John
LC - 14 Jan 2005 12:24 GMT
The owner is adamant that there are no fluid, oil, trans fluid, etc. leaks
whatsoever.  Looking in his driveway and under the car after driving it, I
didn't see anything.  I read something about when replacing crank pulley,
there is a point where you replace some oil pump O-Rings, and reseat the
pump, etc?   Shouldn't there be an oil leak of some type that goes along
with this problem?

>> My question is.. what causes the failure?  It it hard to fix?  What
>> should I
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> John
The Malt Hound - 14 Jan 2005 17:46 GMT
> The owner is adamant that there are no fluid, oil, trans fluid, etc. leaks
> whatsoever.  Looking in his driveway and under the car after driving it, I
> didn't see anything.  I read something about when replacing crank pulley,
> there is a point where you replace some oil pump O-Rings, and reseat the
> pump, etc?   Shouldn't there be an oil leak of some type that goes along
> with this problem?

No.  The problem he is describing is the inner and out parts of the
crankshaft pulley (aka harmonic balancer) assembly.  The pulley fits on the
end of the crankshaft and there is a seal that fits in the timing chain
cover that mates to this assembly, but the rubber he is talking about is
sandwiched between the two press fit parts of the pulley.

But before you go overboard here, just get some white-out (typing correction
fluid) and paint a line across the face (like the diameter) of the 2 piece
pully assembly.  Drive it and make it squeek.  Stop the engine and see if
the white-out line is no longer continuous.  If it is still continuous it is
not slipping.  If the line no longer lines up on the inner and outer
portions you have diagnosed your problem.

-Fred W
Craig Ian Dewick - 17 Jan 2005 07:44 GMT
>> My question is.. what causes the failure?  It it hard to fix?  What should I
>> expect to pay someone to fix it for me?

>Ok, everything I'm about to write is based on the assumption that it is the
>crankshaft pulley (as I suggested in another thread). But you should first
>check the belts and make sure they're not the source the noise, since that's
>easy and cheap to fix.

>The crank pulley has inner and outer parts joined by rubber, which dampens
>vibration. When it gets old, the outer part begins to slip relative to the
>inner part, which squeaks. This is generally worse when the engine is cold;
>when it warms up the rubber gets sticky and slips less. Eventually it will
>fail altogether and you will be stranded somewhere.

This explains why crankshaft pulleys are so expensive! 8-) Also a good
reason to only buy new ones, unless it's possible to repair old ones to be
as good as new? I saw a new one on Ebay recently (probably for a 16V engine
- mine are 8V so I think the pulleys are different) which was priced over
US$100.

>Replacing it involves removing the belts, maybe moving the AC compressor aside,
>blocking the engine flywheel so it can't spin, and getting the relevant nut
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>right tools and the Bentley manual. Also take a look at the documents on the
>townsendimports.com site.

Could be better just to go whole-hog and remove the engine from the car to
do this sort of thing. That way it's a lot safer, and it allows other things
to be done to the engine which may be possible with the engine in-situ, but
are much safer and easier to do with the engine out. Opinions?

Regards,

Craig.

http://lios.apana.org.au/~c900
http://www.saab900classic.net

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at www.sunshack.org - Operator of Jedi (an APANA Sydney PoP) - please visit
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Craig M. Bobchin - 14 Jan 2005 17:18 GMT
Based on what I'm reading here, it does sound like a crankshaft pully. I
had this happen on two different C900s, one an '85 900, and the 2nd an
'88 900SPG.  The 1st time it took me by surprise and like you I
suspected belts as the noise maker. Boy was I wrong. It went out and
caused me no means of frustration and $$$. If I were you I'd have it
looked at by a Knowledgeable Saab mechanic, either indy or at a dealer.
In fact I'd get a pre-buy inspection.

It may cost a few dollars, but the piece of mind is well worth it.

One other thing to look for on those older C900s is the front A-Arm. It
holds the wheel to the body. I've had two of them go out and it is a
common occurance with that generation of Saab. Not expensive to replace,
but a PITA when it happens.

Craig

> I made another post on here about a car I looked at, and am still planning
> on buying..
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> Thanks!
> -LC
Dave Hinz - 15 Jan 2005 15:14 GMT
> One other thing to look for on those older C900s is the front A-Arm. It
> holds the wheel to the body. I've had two of them go out and it is a
> common occurance with that generation of Saab.

It is?  I never noticed anyone else mentioning it. ???

Dave Hinz
Grunff - 15 Jan 2005 17:29 GMT
> It is?  I never noticed anyone else mentioning it. ???

It's very odd actually - it does happen, I've seen it mentioned several
times, and have seen one on the verge of breaking.

Sounds like it could cause horrible accidents, right? Oddly enough, it
only ever seems to break when reversing + turning at the same time.

Signature

Grunff

Craig M. Bobchin - 15 Jan 2005 18:33 GMT
Grunff,

You are absolutly correct. It only happens when in reverse and turning
the wheel. I guess that is a form of failsafe. I've never heard of it
breaking in the forward direction.

> > It is?  I never noticed anyone else mentioning it. ???
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Sounds like it could cause horrible accidents, right? Oddly enough, it
> only ever seems to break when reversing + turning at the same time.
James Sweet - 15 Jan 2005 21:44 GMT
> > It is?  I never noticed anyone else mentioning it. ???
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Sounds like it could cause horrible accidents, right? Oddly enough, it
> only ever seems to break when reversing + turning at the same time.

Does the breakage involve rust? Or does the metal just fatigue?
Grunff - 15 Jan 2005 21:54 GMT
> Does the breakage involve rust? Or does the metal just fatigue?

Not rust, metal fatigue.

Just did a search on TSN <spit>, and here's a relevant thread:
<http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/900/index.html?bID=177344>

Signature

Grunff

 
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