> Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 30 lines]
> Is there a known weak spot that accounts for this ? I'm really
> puzzled.
Are you sure the bulb is not blown? Sometimes the broken filamnet
will remain attached to the poles and swing around in the bulb
envelope until the two ends touch together, temporarily welding
itself, only to beak apart at the next cooling cycle.
-Fred W
Pooh Bear - 04 Feb 2005 07:27 GMT
> > Hi all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 35 lines]
> envelope until the two ends touch together, temporarily welding
> itself, only to beak apart at the next cooling cycle.
I'm familar with the failure mode you mention. In fact I once had a
bedside lamp that failed that way and I used to swing it around to re-make
the contact just for fun !
The last time they played up it was the n/s lamp that was out. I guess
both filaments could be bust ? I've got some high intensity Xenon ?
replacements anyway so I guess I should simply swap them out. Never seen
this with car lights before though.
Ohhh - something that might provide another clue. When I first noticed the
problem, adjusting the beam height control would sometimes fix it.
Graham
The Malt Hound - 04 Feb 2005 16:02 GMT
> Ohhh - something that might provide another clue. When I first
> noticed the
> problem, adjusting the beam height control would sometimes fix it.
In that case it does sound like its either back to the light control
module or the stalk switch.
-Fred W
> Hi all,
>
> I have had various headlight problems since purchase of my 'lemon' 9000
> CSE 2.0 LPT.
Uhh. No Saab is a lemon, but may lack maintenance. The 93 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT
is one of the best.
> A 'thump' to the headlamp glass normally fixes it - as does driving some
> distance - you normally hit a bump that encourages the unilluminated
> bulb to spring to life.
If this is the case, then it must be a weak connection to the bulb. Try to
trace the wiring and improve the grip of terminals/connectors. Make sure
that the small spring is correctly hooked into the bulb to keep it in place.
> Is there a known weak spot that accounts for this ? I'm really puzzled.
Access to the headlamp is fiddly. I've recently had a problem where both
headlamps appears faulty on the dash display. Then I just turn the
headlamp switch off and on again, and the problem goes away. Maybe this
is due to dampness this time of year in this damp country, like when my
old PC sometimes starts up with the default 480x640 screen resolution;
I immediately restart and it's OK.
Pooh Bear - 05 Feb 2005 22:16 GMT
> > Hi all,
> >
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> Uhh. No Saab is a lemon, but may lack maintenance. The 93 9000 CSE 2.0 LPT
> is one of the best.
Definite lack of maintenance I'd say. For me it was simply a 'lemon' purchase.
Long story. It was advertised as lowish mileage for a '93 (110,000 mi ) with
almost full Saab dealer service history. Turns out that the dash had been
changed @ around 45,000 mi and the delaer hadn't spotted the odd mileage glitch
in the log !
I got my money back ( ebay purchase btw ) and kept the car ( it was that bad the
dealer didn't want it back ) but even at that price I'm not convinced it was a
good deal.
> > A 'thump' to the headlamp glass normally fixes it - as does driving some
> > distance - you normally hit a bump that encourages the unilluminated
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> trace the wiring and improve the grip of terminals/connectors. Make sure
> that the small spring is correctly hooked into the bulb to keep it in place.
That's what it seems like to me.
Guess I'll just need to probe further.
> > Is there a known weak spot that accounts for this ? I'm really puzzled.
>
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> old PC sometimes starts up with the default 480x640 screen resolution;
> I immediately restart and it's OK.
Faulty headlamp warning ( if the lamp is actually on ) is definitely the 'lamp
control unit' - the orange relay looking like thing in the relay box under the
hood /bonnet. It's most likely the case if the lamp's intermittent too.
It just contains some electronics to monitor the bulb current.
If you know how to use a soldering iron and a model knife ( to remove one of the
3 cover retaining tabs on the orange body ) it's easily fixed by resoldering the
connections to the printed circuit board. These connections fail due to the
engine bay environment.
Graham
>Hi all,
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
>Graham
Having a similar problem on my daughter's '94 900s(NG). I have found
the problem is the high beam wire between the connector at the back of
the housing and the plug at the back of the lamp. I just have to
figure a way to remove the harness connector in the housing. There is
not very much room between the reflector and the outside of the
housing.