I have no idea, but my sympathies are with you <g>.
I also have a daughter with a 94 NG900S. Her latest problem is the car runs
beautifully 99.9% of the time. But ... once in a while, it bucks like mad
and stalls in traffic.
She pulls it over, starts it back up and it runs perfectly for many days, or
weeks.
She is hesitant to drive it. Unfortunately, no 'Check Engine' comes on for
this new event, but she has had a bunch of them in the last 4 years. She
also had the dreaded 'Check Gearbox' light that cost $400 to replace a part.
I hope you find your problem. It should be easy to find - if it won't even
start.
It's the intermittent problems that are tough.
Good luck,
Mike
> 125K miles
> 2.3L
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Lou - 04 Mar 2005 16:21 GMT
>I have no idea, but my sympathies are with you <g>.
>I also have a daughter with a 94 NG900S. Her latest problem is the car runs
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>
>Mike
If all you have to offer is sympathy.......thanks. That seems to be
more than I am getting around the house :)
We are just living with the "check gearbox" issue. Since it works fine
after a brief warmup....life is good.
Off to the garage for a visual, electrical and hopefully NOT
mechanical checkup. It's just too cold out for an old man.
Mike - 04 Mar 2005 16:45 GMT
the dreaded 'Check Gearbox' light that cost $400 to replace a part.
Just so you know, there is an electronic switch ( in a triangle-shaped metal
housing).
that sits on top of the transmission in full view. It controls shifting I
believe.
That part is known to flake out with age and is a common source for the
gearbox light.
> We are just living with the "check gearbox" issue. Since it works fine
> after a brief warmup....life is good.
> _________________________________________
ma_twain - 05 Mar 2005 00:44 GMT
Is there a common reason for the 94 NG900 being so popular as a car for
your children? I got one because it was inexpensive, I got the more
expensive Classic 900 turbo with the SPG package for myself :-)
My NG900 bucks all of the time and has cut out completely while driving.
The problem was the ignition switch, wiggle it and it turns off all
electrical circuits in the car, including lights even if you are doing
55 mph at night. This is an automatic, so I had to slide it into
neutral and quickly pull of the road without lights . . . Not fun or
even remotely safe. Now, I need to watch out for the 'Check Gearbox'
light. . .
This NG900 makes me appreciate my Classic even more.
> I have no idea, but my sympathies are with you <g>.
> I also have a daughter with a 94 NG900S. Her latest problem is the car runs
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Lou - 05 Mar 2005 01:31 GMT
>Is there a common reason for the 94 NG900 being so popular as a car for
>your children? I got one because it was inexpensive, I got the more
>expensive Classic 900 turbo with the SPG package for myself :-)
My daughter purchased the car because it was a decent car that she
could afford (18 years old). I took her to a used car lot where a
friend of mine works. I had worked at a full line dealership where he
was in sales. They were asking 6995 USD for it. We brought it home and
I went over it pretty closely. There were a number of minor things
wrong with it. Before took it back, we talked it over and she told him
she could only afford 3300 USD. The usual head scratching and "let me
see what I can do" routine and the offer was accepted. I had done some
research of the cars and thought it was worth the money and was a
fairly safe car for her.
I could not afford to buy it.........then again, my wife and I looked
at a '95 Jag Vanden Plas last week....... ( : 0
>My NG900 bucks all of the time and has cut out completely while driving.
> The problem was the ignition switch, wiggle it and it turns off all
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>125K miles
>2.3L
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>
>Thanks in advance.
Coffee break -/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/
Compression check 1-2-3 150# psi
4 172# psi
Is that within paramaters?
2-3-4 plugs have some grey on the anodes (ground side)
1 is clean
No spark at any plug.
No spark at the coil wire (dist end)
Rotor looks terrible
A small amount of oil has accumulated on the low side of the cap.
Unable to pull the rotor off the top of the dist. shaft.
Pull the dist. to replace the rotor? Seems a bit much to me?
Coffee break because the coil is located under the power steering
reservoir and it's mounting bracket.
Is there something that should have been reset after the battery
change?
TIA
>125K miles
>2.3L
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I eliminated the coil wire and now have the coil out of the vehicle.
Now to find a shop to test it.
Anyone know what the internal resistence of the coil should be?
I am getting a reading of only 0.8 ohms.
Let's close this chapter.
I have proven that it is not ignition related and will post a new
thread on what has been found.
Thanks for the help....
>125K miles
>2.3L
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