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Car Forum / Saab Cars / April 20051994 900SE turbo (coupe) Ball joints
Hi everyone I have a 1994 Saab 900SE turbo (coupe). The VIN is YS3DN35N6R2034639. Recently, the front end started clunking over bumps. The noise sounds like two pieces of metal hitting, or something being loose. I took it into a mechanic, who hoisted up the car and proded the underneeth with a metal rod (proper procedure?). He told me that the ball joints were completely worn, and that I would need a new set. Also, he said that I can't buy the ball joints without the control arm (I assume their attached?). All the Saab parts I've found are extremely expensive. I was wondering, firstly if his procedure in checking the ball joints sounds right. Secondly, are there any aftermarket cheap ball joints for my car (I know 1994 was a strange year for 900SE's suspension parts). Thirdly, how dangerous is it to continue to drive with bad ball joints? (I'm a student, and cannot exactly afford to pay $800 for parts). MAIN QUESTION: Is there such a thing as a temp. fix for this problem? Can the ball joints be welded or something like that? I love the car, but I am planning on relocating soon, and therefore giving it up. Thank you all for your help. I look forward to your replies. Zal Thank you, Zal Salutations: Unfortunately, you will have to replace the a-arm to replace the ball joint - this is normal (although I feel a bad design) on most post 1994 cars of many makes. Basically - it is cheaper to build them that way. Although the manufactures argue that the part lasts longer - I haven't seen any evidence of that here in Pot-Hole heaven. As to wether or not it is the ball joint, that takes first hand inspection because it could also be something amiss in the strut, strut bearing, sway bar or a-arm mounts. The procedure is basically correct, it shows looseness in the ball connection - but you should probably get a second opinion and have them inspect the rest of the wear points under there because the noise could be a combination of things. Or not - in which case you need to replace the a-arm for some really important safety reasons - no good temp fix is recommended.  SignatureRadio Free Dexterdyne Top Tune o'be-do-da-day Johnny Rivers - Memphis Tennessee http://www.dexterdyne.org/888/050.RAM all tunes - no cookies no subscription no weather no ads no news no phone in no sign up required - all the Time > Hi everyone > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Thank you, > Zal But is there a temporary fix? Something that would stop the clunking, and keep the car moving safely for around 250 miles or so? Zal > Salutations: > > Unfortunately, you will have to replace the a-arm to replace the ball > joint - this is normal (although I feel a bad design) on most post 1994 > cars of many makes. Basically - it is cheaper to build them that way. > Although the manufactures argue that the part lasts longer - I haven't > seen any evidence of that here in Pot-Hole heaven. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > a combination of things. Or not - in which case you need to replace the > a-arm for some really important safety reasons - no good temp fix is > recommended. > [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > Thank you, > > Zal > But is there a temporary fix? Something that would stop the clunking, > and keep the car moving safely for around 250 miles or so? Yes, you wrap a load of duct tape around the ball joint. That'll hold it for a while. No, there is no temporary fix. A balljoint is a balljoint, once it's worn, it needs replacing, end of story. The first thing to do, as Dex said, is determine whether it is in fact the balljoint, not the strut bearing, which is also a common failure. SignatureGrunff > But is there a temporary fix? Something that would stop the clunking, > and keep the car moving safely for around 250 miles or so? > > Zal No. Replace the control arms if the joints are actually bad. Someone mentioned checking the upper ball joints with a large wrench, whcih is hilarious since a 1994 SAAB 900 (NG guys!) has no upper ball joints. The way I check them is jack the car up so that the wheel is hanging from the suspension about 3-4 inches off the ground. Now put the end of a length of 2x4 under the wheel and pry up on the bottom of the tire. while prying watch the joint for any vertical motion. There should be none. There are a few other things that will cause clunking when driving over bumps or uneven road, so before you spend a couple hundred bucks on control arms be sure they are actually bad. The bolt that attaches the control arm to the stanchion arm has a propensity for coming loose and/or wearing the bushing at that point. Boith of which will cause some nice clunking on bumps. There is a service bulletin with an improved torque procedure for that bolt due to all of the complaints from owners. -Fred W > Someone mentioned checking the upper ball joints with a large wrench, > whcih is hilarious since a 1994 SAAB 900 (NG guys!) has no upper ball > joints. Who did, Fred? I can't see that post. SignatureGrunff >> Someone mentioned checking the upper ball joints with a large wrench, >> whcih is hilarious since a 1994 SAAB 900 (NG guys!) has no upper ball >> joints. > > Who did, Fred? I can't see that post. Bro G, Post copied and pasted below for your amusement: MH wrote: >>I was wondering, firstly if his procedure in >>checking the ball joints sounds right [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > > Maybe you should have realised that before you bought the Saab... but it's a > relatively easy DIY job so you might save some if you can. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > '91 900i 16 > http://go.to/saab96 >>>Can the ball joints be welded or something like that? >> >> yes, but after that you can only drive in a straight line... ROFL - thanks, that is funny. (saintzal - I'm not laughing at you, I'm laughing /with/ you) The procedure is of course spot on for C900s. SignatureGrunff >>>> Can the ball joints be welded or something like that? >>> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > The procedure is of course spot on for C900s. exactly! We all get caught up in our own worlds and experiences... -Fred W > exactly! We all get caught up in our own worlds and experiences... I know that feeling. It's been a very long week at Grunff Central office, and I'm really looking forward to a few cold ones tonight. SignatureGrunff > > Someone mentioned checking the upper ball joints with > > a large wrench, whcih is hilarious since a 1994 SAAB > > 900 (NG guys!) has no upper ball joints. > The procedure is of course spot on for C900s. I mentioned that, and it is also correct for a SAAB 95/96/97 and probably any other car with upper ball joints. -- MH '72 97 '77 96 '78 95 '79 96 '91 900i 16 http://go.to/saab96 > I mentioned that, and it is also correct for a SAAB 95/96/97 and probably > any other car with upper ball joints. And 99s. And 90s. You don't see many 90s these days... SignatureGrunff >> I mentioned that, and it is also correct for a SAAB 95/96/97 and probably >> any other car with upper ball joints. > > And 99s. And 90s. You don't see many 90s these days... Not in the US, especially. > Not in the US, especially. Did you get any 90s over there (apart from private imports)? SignatureGrunff >> Not in the US, especially. > > Did you get any 90s over there (apart from private imports)? Nope. Haven't seen a single 90 over here. There are at least two 92s, though, one which used to belong to Larry Williams, and another out in Washington State somewhere. Bruce somebody maybe? > I was wondering, firstly if his procedure in > checking the ball joints sounds right yes, using a crow bar or similar is a practical method for the lower ball joints. For the upper ones you use a big pipe wrench.. > how dangerous is it to continue to drive > with bad ball joints? The ball joint may separate, the wheel will keel over, leaving the car unsteerable. You can only hope it does not happen at 100+ km/h > Can the ball joints be welded or something like that? yes, but after that you can only drive in a straight line... > I love the car, Of course, don't we all? > (I'm a student, and cannot exactly afford > to pay $800 for parts). Maybe you should have realised that before you bought the Saab... but it's a relatively easy DIY job so you might save some if you can. -- MH '72 97 '77 96 '78 95 '79 96 '91 900i 16 http://go.to/saab96 |
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