>> I got extra-keen yesterday afternoon and decided to put the time into
>> properly documenting the heater control valve replacement I've done over
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> It's almost 2 am so I should be sleepy (but I'm not - last coffee was at 8
>> pm - hmm). 8-)
>Hey, that's a great walkthrough. It's a job I have to do sometime. I've got
>the dash fascia to repair and I want to wire in some new gauges and pull a
>load of wires through for monitoring APC functions. I intend to drop the
>knee board anyway, so I'll let you know how much easier it is with clear
>access :)
That would be great Paul - thanks! BTW, there's been one follow-up so far to
the posting about the new page on Saabscene. The poster suggested that the
heater core can be dropped out with the valve still attached (after getting
the hose pipes through the firewall) by removing four screws. I will need to
have a better look to see today.
In one of the pictures I put online I think it shows a screw fixing (one of
those little folded metal 'screw clip' things) on the heater core cover
which doesn't have any screw in it. I wonder if that's one of the 'four
screws' that John is talking about in his Saabscene thread followup?
With the engine oil also out of the car (see another posting in my forums
and Saabscene about oil drain plugs!), I have time to contemplate other
things. 8-) If I get to buy some synthetic oil today I'll take the old drain
plug and compare it against a new 14 mm one at the auto parts store. Seems
that most people think they're 13 mm, but someone said it should be 14 based
on a web reference to a US auto parts supplier. Anyway, that's disgressing
from the heater valve issue...
Craig.

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