 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Saab Cars / July 2005A/c compressor
The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. Replacement cost about a grand installed per my a/c tech. I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale on ebay. I think it is the same model as my 93. Just need to be sure before splashing out. Does anyone know if thte compressors on 93 & 95 are the exact same? Thx Jim > The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. Replacement cost about a grand > installed per my a/c tech. I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale on ebay. > I think it is the same model as my 93. Just need to be sure before splashing > out. Does anyone know if thte compressors on 93 & 95 are the exact same? Get one of these and you'll know for sure. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=72275&item=7978056545&rd=1 I also know a few ppl breaking Saabs - you'll also find them periodically on ebay. 3 of them happen to be within ~ 10 mi of me luckily. One is a mere 1/2 mi detour on my route to work ! You can also try Neo Brothers - but they're reputed to be a bit expensive as are '2 Stroke to Turbo'. Graham Don't know what country your in but in the US this place rocks - www.eEuroparts.com > The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. Replacement cost about a grand > installed per my a/c tech. I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale on ebay. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Thx > Jim > Don't know what country your in but in the US this place rocks - > www.eEuroparts.com He's in the UK hence I mentioned UK sources. It would help if ppl mentioned that without having to resort to looking at the headers though. Graham > He's in the UK hence I mentioned UK sources. > It would help if ppl mentioned that without having to resort to looking at the > headers though. Especially since reading headers could give one conflicting information about where someone is... > The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. Replacement cost about a grand > installed per my a/c tech. I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale on ebay. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Jim > I'd try to help by providing SAAB part numbers, but their was no 1995 9-5 as far as I know. -Fred W > > The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. ... > > ...I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale on ebay. > but their was no 1995 9-5 as far as I know. Nor was there ever a 1999 93, or a 1995 95, and I doubt if there ever was a 93 with AC. -- MH '72 97 '77 96 '78 95 '79 96 '91 900i 16 http://go.to/saab96 Didnt start making 95 till 98 and the compressors are not the same. You can get an aft compressor for about 425.00 on line or you may be able to get a rebuilt from autozone about 300 or so good luck papa > Nor was there ever a 1999 93, or a 1995 95, and I doubt if there ever was a > 93 with AC. I've never looked closely at one, but I'd be somewhat shocked to see a 9-3 *without* AC in north america anyway. >> Nor was there ever a 1999 93, or a 1995 95, and I doubt if there ever was > a >> 93 with AC. > I've never looked closely at one, but I'd be somewhat shocked to see a 9-3 > *without* AC in north america anyway. True, but as the last 93 was built in 1960, and had an output of 38 HP, there wasn't a lot of power left for a/c. Dave > >> Nor was there ever a 1999 93, or a 1995 95, and I doubt if there ever was > > a [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Dave Oops! Ok I got confused, I'd never heard of a 93. > >> Nor was there ever a 1999 93, or a 1995 95, and I doubt if there ever was > > a [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > True, but as the last 93 was built in 1960, and had an output of 38 HP, > there wasn't a lot of power left for a/c. LOL ! You know in India they have little Suzuki ( IIRC ) based cars with 800cc engines that have AC ! I forget the exact model now but travelled in one regularly when I was there. It worked ok too. Graham Yeah Yeah my mistakes- I should have said a 9-5 instead of a 1995 9 5, and OK mine is a 1999 9-3 not 1999 93. I am impressed with the attention to detail in some of the answers I got. If there ever was a Saab 93 it must have been before my time! This is the wording about the 9-5 a/c compressor that was for sale in ebay Genuine new unused SAAB 95 Air Conditioning Compressor (Denso) complete with clutch/drive pulley in original SAAB SCANIA packaging, Part No. 5046891, to fit: SAAB 95 1998 - 2002 - Chassis Y3033979 Onwards >> > The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. ... >> > ...I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale on ebay. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > '91 900i 16 > http://go.to/saab96 > Yeah Yeah my mistakes- I should have said a 9-5 instead of a 1995 9 5, and > OK mine is a 1999 9-3 not 1999 93. I am impressed with the attention to > detail in some of the answers I got. > If there ever was a Saab 93 it must have been before my time! http://www.dn.no/multimedia/archive/00052/Saab_93_750_Gran_Tur_52456e.jpg ...for example... >> Yeah Yeah my mistakes- I should have said a 9-5 instead of a 1995 9 5, and >> OK mine is a 1999 9-3 not 1999 93. I am impressed with the attention to [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >...for example... There are only a very few compressor manufagtuers. If you can determine which compressor it is you can beat the Saab price. In My city (Baltimore) there is an a/c refrigeration specialist who does large truck refrigeration as well as auto a/c and he has located good substitutes twice for me. And do you not have to consider a refrigerant conversion? Malcolm Hmm OK, That 93 is indeed well before my time I am happy to confirm. That yoke must be from the 1950's lol I on the other had was conceived and delivered a year before Armstrongs short steps and so can only remember cars back to mid seventies-mostly my fathers cortinas which were always breaking down-hence none of his kids drive Fords. The mental images of pushing them is still too clear in our memory and we dare not reawaken those dark images. >> Yeah Yeah my mistakes- I should have said a 9-5 instead of a 1995 9 5, >> and [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > ...for example... I have replaced my a/c compressor and regassed the system and now the air seems a bit cooler but nowhwere near as cold as it should be. Does it take some time for the compressor to run in before it starts to cool effectively? The a/c techie seemed perplexed that the new compressor & gas did not work so well. Its a 1999 9-3 with a/c not ACC. What else could be the problem? Thx Jim > The a/c compressor has failed on my 1999 93s. Replacement cost about a > grand installed per my a/c tech. I see a 1995 95 a/c compressor for sale [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thx > Jim > I have replaced my a/c compressor and regassed the system and now the air > seems a bit cooler but nowhwere near as cold as it should be. Does it take > some time for the compressor to run in before it starts to cool effectively? > The a/c techie seemed perplexed that the new compressor & gas did not work > so well. Its a 1999 9-3 with a/c not ACC. What else could be the problem? Did they replace the reciever/dryer and the orifice tube and flush out the system? This is absolutely essential in the event of a compressor failure, normally the orifice tube will be heavily clogged with metal particles and the flush is needed to ensure that every bit of the existing particles are flushed out of the system. Hmm, Nope I don't think so-just vacuumed the system, then replaced the compressor onlyand regassed it up. Actually I only told him to replace the compressor not the receiver/dryer or orifice as well. Its only at 50% efficiency I would say now. The temperature according to my handheld thermometer is about a constant 15 celcius at the central vent beside the radio. The metal tube coming going from the engine compartment into the interior is ice cold though so I am sure that the system is cooling v well-its just not getting to the vents. I presume that an orifice change or clean is not a diy job? Thx Jim >> I have replaced my a/c compressor and regassed the system and now the air >> seems a bit cooler but nowhwere near as cold as it should be. Does it [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > the flush is needed to ensure that every bit of the existing particles are > flushed out of the system. >Hmm, Nope I don't think so-just vacuumed the system, then replaced the >compressor onlyand regassed it up. Actually I only told him to replace the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >well-its just not getting to the vents. I presume that an orifice change or >clean is not a diy job? You may not required a receiver but a new dryer is an absolute necessity and so is vacuum pumping to a very high vacuum. The object in both cases is to remove water (atmospherics moisture. Under the heat and pressure of your compressor it can produce some very nasty compounds reacting with refrigerant. I recall that hydrofluoric acid was one of them Change the drier!!!!!!! Pump the system down for hours. Malcolm > You may not required a receiver but a new dryer is an absolute necessity > and so is vacuum pumping to a very high vacuum. The object in both cases [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Pump the system down for hours. Is the reciever and dryer not a combined unit on this system? Admittedly I've only worked on Volvo automotive A/C systems and domestic central A/C, the former having a combined reciever/dryer and the latter normally lacking a reciever entirely. As for the vacuum, it's true that you can never have too good of a vacuum, however it's not usually nessesary to pump it down for hours. An hour with a decent vacuum pump should be sufficient, then shut the valve and monitor the vacuum for a half hour or so, if the pressure increases on it's own then you either have some moisture still in the system and need to pump it down further, or more likely a leak which needs to be fixed. The vacuum doesn't have to be super high, but it should be darn close to 30 in/Hg. A rotary compressor such as used in window A/C systems is normally more than sufficient but the lower you can get the pressure the more efficient the A/C will be. The dryer *always* needs to be replaced whenever the system is opened since it will quickly saturate with moisture from the air, and the orifice tube if used should at least be inspected but after a compressor failure it should certainly be replaced. If this system has a TXV then that will normally need replacement too but most newer systems use a simple orifice. perhaps I exaggerated when I said pump down for hours but as noted, the vacuum is never too good and 30"Hg. is adequate. If you can attain more, so much the better. >Is the receiver and dryer not a combined unit on this system? Admittedly >I've only worked on Volvo automotive A/C systems and domestic central A/C, >the former having a combined reciever/dryer and the latter normally lacking >a reciever entirely. If the receiver dryer is one combined unit, It does no harm to leave it in place and simply add a generic filter/dryer. Please note filter/dryer! The original system may only have had a dryer and (I believe) some OEM stuff does not have an original dryer most do not have a filter. It is not required to change the receiver whether it is combined with the dryer or not. It is all right to leave the old dryer in place but cut it out if it is easily done. Used it has saturated silica gel, new the gel is anhydrous. but an old dryer creates very little resistance to flow. nothing important,but there is a tiny value in removing it. After replacing the compressor, which is almost always the case, always add a filter. A new filter. The failing of failed compressor creates a lot of crud that you do not need fouling the replacement. I have seen sticklers who after a week or so will remove and reinstall another filter dryer pump down and recharge. This may be a "belt and suspenders" approach, but those who did it had plenty of automotive cooling experience. Email direct if I can add to this. Malcolm >As for the vacuum, it's true that you can never have too good of a vacuum, >however it's not usually necessary to pump it down for hours. An hour with a [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >certainly be replaced. If this system has a TXV* then that will normally need >replacement too but most newer systems use a simple orifice. It does not hurt to replace an orifice or a capillary metering tube but if the type of connections permit it , cleaning either up is acceptable. *TXV is thermal expansion valve Malcolm > perhaps I exaggerated when I said pump down for hours but as noted, the > vacuum is never too good and 30"Hg. is adequate. If you can attain more, > so much the better. Technically 30 in/Hg is a perfect vacuum, but in reality an ordinary vacuum guage is not nearly precise enough to measure the last remaining bits, but in this case it's not critical anyway. > If the receiver dryer is one combined unit, It does no harm to leave it > in place and simply add a generic filter/dryer. That's not nessesarily true, the saturated silica gel expands and the pouch that holds it can burst. It happens and when it does it's a BIG mess and will normally destroy the compressor. I don't know what the 9-3 uses but usually the filter/dryer is easily accessible for replacement. > After replacing the compressor, which is almost always the case, always > add a filter. A new filter. The failing of failed compressor creates a [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > approach, but those who did it had plenty of automotive cooling > experience. That's probably a little excessive, though a really bad failure may make it worthwhile. Normally this is only an issue in central A/C or heat pump systems where a compressor burnout results in lots of nasty acidic gunk in the hermetic system from the varnish burning off the motor windings. It's not particularly easy to flush out one of these systems so they make special cleanup filters to be installed after such an incident. >That's probably a little excessive, though a really bad failure may make it >worthwhile. Normally this is only an issue in central A/C or heat pump >systems where a compressor burnout results in lots of nasty acidic gunk in >the hermetic system from the varnish burning off the motor windings. It's >not particularly easy to flush out one of these systems so they make special >cleanup filters to be installed after such an incident. What I will standby is : Clean up cap tube or orifice if present. Alternatively replace the thermal expansion valve if that is the metering device not a tube or orifice. I am leery of cleaning up TX valves. Remove old dryer and filter and replace. Retain receiver but be sure it is clean. Pump down as far as possible. Replace charge and use gauges or very accurate weighing method. Repeat with new dryer and recharge if you are a stickler. I feel it is cheap insurance. Refrigerant, high pressure and moisture can produce nasty products even in an "open drive" compressor After replacing the compressor, which is almost always the case, always add a filter. A new filter. The failing of failed compressor creates a lot of crud that you do not need fouling the replacement. I have seen sticklers who after a week or so will remove and reinstall another filter dryer pump down and recharge. This may be a "belt and suspenders" approach, but those who did it had plenty of automotive cooling experience. Malcolm >>That's probably a little excessive, though a really bad failure may make it >>worthwhile. Normally this is only an issue in central A/C or heat pump [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > >Malcolm My clutch pulley bearings failled (it seems). I think I only need a new clutch assembly. However, nobody sell it separate, so I gota buy the whole compressor. I can replace the clutch myself with minimal tools, but people are recomending that I replace the entire compressor, which means I need to disconnect/reconnect a whole lot more? Do I need to recharge the system? Replace the dryer/receiver? Since I believe only the pulley failed, theres no metal chips in there right? How can I check? > My clutch pulley bearings failled (it seems). I think I only need a > new clutch assembly. However, nobody sell it separate, so I gota buy [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I believe only the pulley failed, theres no metal chips in there > right? How can I check? If the clutch is removeable then surely somebody sells it? Maybe you could find a new bearing, places like McMaster Carr sell that sort of thing. If you replace the compressor then yes you need to replace the dryer, O-rings at any fittings you disconnect, then pump it down and recharge it. There's probably no excessive metal shavings in there but I would still replace the orifice tube any time the system was opened. |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.