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Car Forum / Saab Cars / June 2005Extracting Recessed Bolt (Broken, Too!)
This is one of the bolts for the control arm bushing on the passenger side in a CS turbo 9000. It is to the rear bushing, one of the two 13mm head, front bolts to the 4-bolt retainer. What do I use to get down in there (roughly 2 1/2" I guess) and extract the broken tip? > This is one of the bolts for the control arm bushing on the passenger side > in a CS turbo 9000. It is to the rear bushing, one of the two 13mm head, > front bolts to the 4-bolt retainer. What do I use to get down in there > (roughly 2 1/2" I guess) and extract the broken tip? Penetrating oil, and then a left-handed drill bit, would be how I'd start. Have you tried swearing rather a lot? That sometimes helps. Are you in the US? Go to Home Depot and pick up the Blue Mol drill bits if you decide to extract the screws. The Blue Mol cuts through metal like butter. But with the drill bits being very hard, they are also quite brittle. So be prepared with some spare bits on hand. Removed the drivetrain of my 95 9k cse turbo this past weekend to do clutch, timing chain guides and all seals. Had to extract two torx screws on the sump pan. The Blue Mol makes an otherwise aggravating task very easy. > This is one of the bolts for the control arm bushing on the passenger side > in a CS turbo 9000. It is to the rear bushing, one of the two 13mm head, > front bolts to the 4-bolt retainer. What do I use to get down in there > (roughly 2 1/2" I guess) and extract the broken tip? Talk to a welder about it. I had a broken antiroll bar bush on the celica go and the retaining bolt broke while changing it. It would have taken me hours with a drill to do, but, the welder I have used in the past, heated it up with the Oxy torch untl it glowed red. This burns off any crap, and breaks any rust seal through expansion. Then he took the mig welder, with a lot of Amps for penetration, and built up a good sized blob on the end of the broken bolt. Once that was done, he was able to lock a set of vice grips on, and use them to twist out the bolt remains.  Signature"Sorry Sir, the meatballs are Orf" The poster formerly known as Skodapilot. http://www.bouncing-czechs.com >> This is one of the bolts for the control arm bushing on the passenger >> side [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Once that was done, he was able to lock a set of vice grips on, and use > them to twist out the bolt remains. All good, but I'm with Dave on the swearing bit, very cathartic. I often find with machinery that won't play, cars, computers etc the threat of physical violence against said object works, but only if you really mean it. > All good, > but I'm with Dave on the swearing bit, very cathartic. I often find with > machinery that won't play, cars, computers etc the threat of physical > violence against said object works, but only if you really mean it. Watch "Gourmet night" if you can get your hands on any "Fawlty Towers" videos/DVDs. Describes it perfectly. SignatureCarl Robson "Sorry Sir the meatballs are orf" (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot) http://www.bouncing-czechs.com > but I'm with Dave on the swearing bit, very cathartic. I often find with > machinery that won't play, cars, computers etc the threat of physical > violence against said object works, but only if you really mean it. Absolutely. They know when you're bluffing, which only makes it worse of course. >This is one of the bolts for the control arm bushing on the passenger side >in a CS turbo 9000. It is to the rear bushing, one of the two 13mm head, >front bolts to the 4-bolt retainer. What do I use to get down in there >(roughly 2 1/2" I guess) and extract the broken tip? Here we see the true beauty of capitalism. Sit back and use an apprentice. Hehehe. Seriously though, 1/ all the suggestions offered will probably come into play, 2/ Ezy Outs often aren't, 3/ in critical situations removing the part and paying someone else to fix it (or else make good their stuff up at their expense) is often the most time & cost effective way in the end. Cheers > This is one of the bolts for the control arm bushing on the passenger side > in a CS turbo 9000. It is to the rear bushing, one of the two 13mm head, > front bolts to the 4-bolt retainer. What do I use to get down in there > (roughly 2 1/2" I guess) and extract the broken tip? I remember there are only two bolts with a bolt head of 13 mm on the control arm bushing. Anyway, if you haven't solved your problem yet, you may want to remove the control arm altogether to leave the shank exposed. I'd imagine when the bolt head is sheared off, there will be very little tension to keep the shank firmly stuck in the hole. This will make extraction much easier. I had on two occasions the top bolt of the serpentine belt tensioner on my 9k snapped, leaving the shank in the hole. I was able to remove the shank with a pair of needle nose pliers without drilling and bolt extraction. But luck may have been with me. |
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