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Car Forum / Saab Cars / June 2005

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Turbocharger oil line replacement -- advice needed

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chadderboks@gmail.com - 27 Jun 2005 20:20 GMT
A novice question/solicitation of advice:  I "inherited" a '91 900
turbo six months ago.  In all, I think it runs beautifully.

Noticing its performance recently taking a turn for the worse, I
discovered rapid oil loss and leakage at the left front of the engine
compartment.  (Equipped with a piece of cardboard, I estimate that the
oil drips form a mostly "L" shape, with the long arm stretchin back a
foot toward the left front wheel and the short arm running about eight
inches toward the center of the car.)

A Saab mechanic's quick assessment is that the turbocharger lines are
the culprit.  He recommended replacement of the lines and estimated the
cost at $750 (~ 4 hours of mechanic labor time).

At 227K miles and on a shoe-string student budget, I face a
"repair-or-retire" choice.  A repair choice will likely involve some
elbow grease on my part, but, although I have motorhead friends to
help, I'm a novice when it comes to this level of car repair.  Is the
level of technical difficulty too great to let this fix be a learning
exercise?  I must confess that I'm somewhat puzzled right off the bat.
The mechanic estimates a parts cost of $150 per hose, but the parts
listed on www.swedishparts.net for this car ('91 900 Turbo 4 Cyl 2L :
turbo) don't seem to jibe with the length of the oil stain, nor the
mechanic's mention of hose replacement.

Any/all advice accepted -- including the suggestion to leave this one
to the more experienced.

Thanks,
Chad
Henrik B. - 28 Jun 2005 12:50 GMT
> A Saab mechanic's quick assessment is that the turbocharger lines are
> the culprit.  He recommended replacement of the lines and estimated the
> cost at $750 (~ 4 hours of mechanic labor time).

Did he now? he lines itself, are made of aluminum, and don't get holes in
then, unless they're hammered on or bent. But the seals may be at fault. A
new seals-set, from Saab, is about $30.-

Cheers!
Sleeker GT Phwoar - 28 Jun 2005 15:45 GMT
> Noticing its performance recently taking a turn for the worse, I
> discovered rapid oil loss and leakage at the left front of the engine
> compartment.  (Equipped with a piece of cardboard, I estimate that the
> oil drips form a mostly "L" shape, with the long arm stretchin back a
> foot toward the left front wheel and the short arm running about eight
> inches toward the center of the car.)

If you mean left side from inside the car,
Check the lines from just above the oil filter to down by the left hand
front below the left hand headlight.

My 1984 T16 had an horrendous oil leak.
It didn't affect performance, but it went through quite a bit.
I didn't discover the probable cause of the leak, until the day I sold
the car.
While showing the new buyer round, I discovered that the left hand side
engine mount and wishbone upper bushes, and lower wishbone bushes were
coated with oil, but the drain plug was clean.

Moving forward of that, I discovered that the back of the oil cooler was
coated too. It appears that somewhere down the cooler line, there was a
leak, may have even been the cooler itself. It was fine unless it was
pumping. And it reallys showed up when driving, as air moving down the
cooler line blew oil all over the underside of the car and up the engine
on the left hand side.
Signature

Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Malt_Hound - 28 Jun 2005 21:14 GMT
>>Noticing its performance recently taking a turn for the worse, I
>>discovered rapid oil loss and leakage at the left front of the engine
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> cooler line blew oil all over the underside of the car and up the engine
> on the left hand side.

I heard they called that feature "DRP" (Dynamic Rust Proofing).

;-)

-Fred W
Sleeker GT Phwoar - 29 Jun 2005 13:24 GMT
> >>Noticing its performance recently taking a turn for the worse, I
> >>discovered rapid oil loss and leakage at the left front of the engine
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> -Fred W

Yes, it did have that quality, but it also had the added bonus of engine
mount and wishbone buggering.

The reason I was selling it in the first place was that the body work
was shabby, the front handling felt odd, even though I had done the ball
joints, and shocks and springs, and at slow speeds in 1,2,3, it would
occasionally pop out of gear, especially in 1 and 2 at manouvering
speeds when turning tightly. I thought gearbox gone or going. Decided to
sell the car and put what I would spend on it, with what I got for it,
and get something better (different it turns out, not necessarily
better). But I have this sneaky feeling that changing the left hand
engine mount and upper wishbone bushes, and maybe even the ARB bushes,
that car would have driven as good as new again, for just a couple of
hundred quid.

The Celica by comparison needed new shocks and springs after a couple of
months, needed new trailing arm bushes and rear diff cushion and ARB
bushes all round, rear engine mount, has play in the rear diff/one rear
drive shaft and so bangs on gear shifts if you shift quickly, needed new
discs and pads allround, New exhaust system, leaks/uses more oil than
the Saab did, even though I thought it was just the rocker cover gasket
failed (hardened rubber gasket and signs of lots of oil down the back of
the engine), but seems to use more since replacement, about 1 1/2-1 3/4
litres per 1k miles. Oh and I've put some semi serious scratches to the
paint work in parking incidents when I first got it.

Seriously considering a 2.3 FPT 9000 now and cutting my losses.
Signature

Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

 
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