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Car Forum / Saab Cars / September 2005

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Coolant day - help.

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Johannes - 17 Sep 2005 16:08 GMT
I'm trying to flush the system and replace coolant in my 1993 9000 CSE,
B202 engine, no balancer shafts.

With a lot of difficulty, I have managed to remove the front plastic
panels. Naturally, many screws wouldn't come out as their basis behind
the plastic also turned, damned. I have unscrewed the drain plug under
the radiator and flushed the system thoroughly. So far so good. Now the
problem.

Hyanes manual page 1.18 casually says:

"When the flow of coolant stops, reposition the container below
the cylinder block drain plug."

I've looked and looked but can't find the said drain plug. Where the
*%@! is this 'cylinder block drain plug'? I'm reluctant to assemble
the car before the complete job is done.
Tom - 17 Sep 2005 16:45 GMT
> I'm trying to flush the system and replace coolant in my 1993 9000 CSE,
> B202 engine, no balancer shafts.
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> *%@! is this 'cylinder block drain plug'? I'm reluctant to assemble
> the car before the complete job is done.
The reason you can`t find is simply there is`nt one, on a non turbo there is
a drain on the water pump housing, but on a turbo this outlet is used for
the passage of coolant to the turbo. I would not advise undoing this pip as
they are usually coroded so best to leave it alone. As you have the drain
plug out of the rad the coolant in the block will drain from the pump via
the bottom hose. If you want to flush the block remove the heater hose from
the right  hand side of the cylinder head under the barrery but left a bit,
Then put a hose pipe in the hole and flush away. HTH, Tom, Saabtech.
Johannes - 17 Sep 2005 17:06 GMT
> > I'm trying to flush the system and replace coolant in my 1993 9000 CSE,
> > B202 engine, no balancer shafts.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> the right  hand side of the cylinder head under the barrery but left a bit,
> Then put a hose pipe in the hole and flush away. HTH, Tom, Saabtech.

Thanks for info, much appreciated. I can't easily get a hose pipe where I'm
working, so I just poured water through the expansion tank, 4 applications
of a 7 litres flower watering can. At the last turn, the water coming out
under the radiator was clear. I'm  reluctant to do more if it isn't strictly
necessary. What do you think?
Johannes - 18 Sep 2005 18:15 GMT
> > I'm trying to flush the system and replace coolant in my 1993 9000 CSE,
> > B202 engine, no balancer shafts.
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> the right  hand side of the cylinder head under the barrery but left a bit,
> Then put a hose pipe in the hole and flush away. HTH, Tom, Saabtech.

I couldn't get at this heater hose. As a compromise, I flushed also through
the hose at the top of the radiator to the left. This should be possible
provided you remove the thermostat, but I didn't fancy that. Quite a
job if you want to do it properly.

I filled up with some Comma Xstream Red. This is silicate free and designed
to protect alu engines and has a 5 year life. It took 4 litres Comma diluted
with 4 litres distilled water (conveniently from a dehumidifier).
Malt_Hound - 19 Sep 2005 12:54 GMT
> I couldn't get at this heater hose. As a compromise, I flushed also through
> the hose at the top of the radiator to the left. This should be possible
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> to protect alu engines and has a 5 year life. It took 4 litres Comma diluted
> with 4 litres distilled water (conveniently from a dehumidifier).

Why didn't you use the correct coolant?  It isn't that expensive.  I
have never even heard of the stuff that you used, but I know it is not
what SAAB calls for.  It calls for Glysantin G48, which is what is in
the SAAB brand bottles and several others.

While the water from your dehumidifier may have been "distilled", I know
that the catch tank on mine is always developing some sort of growth in
it, so I'm not sure it would be such a good idea either.  Heat distilled
water has the advantage of also being heat pasturized.

Me?  I just use my own tap water.  But we have relatively neutral pH
water here and the mineral content is of no consequence.

Signature

-Fred W
Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here:
<http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/>

Johannes - 19 Sep 2005 15:41 GMT
> > I couldn't get at this heater hose. As a compromise, I flushed also through
> > the hose at the top of the radiator to the left. This should be possible
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> what SAAB calls for.  It calls for Glysantin G48, which is what is in
> the SAAB brand bottles and several others.

The only reason I used that coolant was because I had a bottle of it
standing in the cupboard for a while. It actually says: Contains Glysantin
Alu protect from BASF. I once read a test of Anti-Freeze in CAR MECHANICS;
this one came out about average, probably a trade off for the longer life
span 5 years. But the best performing Anti-Freeze was one called '4 Life'
which had both good cooling performance and 10 years long life.

> While the water from your dehumidifier may have been "distilled", I know
> that the catch tank on mine is always developing some sort of growth in
> it, so I'm not sure it would be such a good idea either.  Heat distilled
> water has the advantage of also being heat pasturized.

The collection tank looked clean. But OK that's worth bearing in mind.

> Me?  I just use my own tap water.  But we have relatively neutral pH
> water here and the mineral content is of no consequence.
Malcolm William Mason - 20 Sep 2005 09:42 GMT
>> While the water from your dehumidifier may have been "distilled", I know
>> that the catch tank on mine is always developing some sort of growth in
>> it, so I'm not sure it would be such a good idea either.  Heat distilled
>> water has the advantage of also being heat pasturized.

Technically it is distilled but it collects all the lovely flora and
fauna from the air pacing through and around it.

it is not Pasteurized . This is ala ways in the liquid Phase and subject
to rapid cooling. Remember?

Malcolm
Malt_Hound - 20 Sep 2005 22:19 GMT
>>>While the water from your dehumidifier may have been "distilled", I know
>>>that the catch tank on mine is always developing some sort of growth in
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
> Malcolm

What are you jabbering about?  I said that the humidifier water is NOT
pasteurized as is the case of "real" distilled water, which is generally
done with heating to the point of vaporization.

By the way, you certainly do not have to exceed liquid phase
temperatures in  order to pasteurize.  Generally 72 degrees (C) for 15
seconds is all it takes.

Signature

-Fred W
Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here:
<http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/>

Johannes - 21 Sep 2005 01:12 GMT
> >>>While the water from your dehumidifier may have been "distilled", I know
> >>>that the catch tank on mine is always developing some sort of growth in
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> pasteurized as is the case of "real" distilled water, which is generally
> done with heating to the point of vaporization.

It's the same process. A dehumidifier condenses water vapour.

> By the way, you certainly do not have to exceed liquid phase
> temperatures in  order to pasteurize.  Generally 72 degrees (C) for 15
> seconds is all it takes.

So an engine at ~90 degrees (C) will easily pasteurize the water.  
> --
> -Fred W
> Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here:
> <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/>
 
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