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Car Forum / Saab Cars / October 2005How do you pronounce Saab?
sob or sub? > sob or sub? sarb >> sob or sub? > >sar With pride!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Or often, in English SOB or s. o.b. MWM troll  SignatureMH '72 97 '77 96 '78 95 '79 96 '91 900i > troll A reasonable question. In Danish language, the 'aa' is often used as a substitute for the letter å (if you don't have the å key). This would suggest Såb, but that is of course completely wrong. >> troll > > A reasonable question. In Danish language, the 'aa' is often used as > a substitute for the letter å (if you don't have the å key). This > would suggest Såb, but that is of course completely wrong. Well, if looked at the actual abbreviation that SAAB stands for: Svneska Aeroplan AktieBolag (roughly Swedish Aeroplane Limited) the both a's should be pronounciated as one long a. Phonetically written sahb. >>> troll >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Aeroplan AktieBolag (roughly Swedish Aeroplane Limited) the both a's > should be pronounciated as one long a. Phonetically written sahb. That´s correct! /B From Sweden > >>> troll > >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > That´s correct! I have some vague memories that it was once pronounced Såb in Denmark, many years ago. >>>>>troll >>>> [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > I have some vague memories that it was once pronounced Såb in Denmark, > many years ago. Actually, it's pronounced "Throat-Warbler-Mangrove" Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> >> I have some vague memories that it was once pronounced Såb in Denmark, >> many years ago. > Actually, it's pronounced "Throat-Warbler-Mangrove" /me gives Fred a golf-clap. Well played, sir. >>> I have some vague memories that it was once pronounced Såb in Denmark, >>> many years ago. the å in danish and swedish has an aw sound... So if Såb was the pronunciation in danish, it would phonetically translate to S'awb(emphasis on the primary syllable) > sob or sub? Neither. It's pronounced "Sahb" Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> >> sob or sub? > >Neither. It's pronounced "Sahb" AND WITH THE EMPHASIS ON "PRIDE". Or Sob (in English, of course) Malcolm >>> sob or sub? >> [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Malcolm ...maybe it's pronounced 'Sob' if your cam belt breaks... :o) >>>>sob or sub? >>>> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > ...maybe it's pronounced 'Sob' if your cam belt breaks... :o) It is pronounced "sucks" if it has a GM engine :-( > ...maybe it's pronounced 'Sob' if your cam belt breaks... :o) What is a Cambelt? SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com > > ...maybe it's pronounced 'Sob' if your cam belt breaks... :o) > > > What is a Cambelt? LOL ! Something I don't need to worry about any more ! Of course now you can cry into your beer about them given the latest 'Saab' engines. Graham > > > ...maybe it's pronounced 'Sob' if your cam belt breaks... :o) > > > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Graham I knew really. My Celica has one. Even though the last owner says he changed it, he couldn't produce a reciept, so it has always been a bit of a worry. And at about $450+vat for a dealer parts and labour for the belt, tensioner, idler and labour, it is a bit pricey. SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com > $450+vat Oops £450+VAT, not $ SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com >>>>...maybe it's pronounced 'Sob' if your cam belt breaks... :o) >>> [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > for a dealer parts and labour for the belt, tensioner, idler and labour, > it is a bit pricey. Do it yourself, man. It can't be that hard. Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> > Do it yourself, man. It can't be that hard. LOL. Even indy specialists who work for the club almost exlcusively let out a big sigh when requested to book on in. Half of the job needs to be done from above. Half from below, and you need to move the car up and down 3 or 4 times to do it properly. There isn't a convenient "hatch" or view port to get at doing it. SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com >>Do it yourself, man. It can't be that hard. > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > There isn't a convenient "hatch" or view port to get at doing it. Oh, never tried one on a Toyota. That sucks. Stick with Saabs and BMWs then... Signature-Fred W Toys for sale, Hey get your toys here: <http://users.adelphia.net/~fredwills/> > >>Do it yourself, man. It can't be that hard. > > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Oh, never tried one on a Toyota. That sucks. Stick with Saabs and BMWs > then... Yup. Why do you think I'm back. I reckon it is nowhere near going, although there is that niggle always there. Just like it is supposed to be a non-interference engine, but you never know whether in the genuine 140k miles it has done, it hasn't needed a gasket and the reciept "lost" so the head has been skimmed. SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com > I reckon it is nowhere near going, although there is that niggle always > there. > Just like it is supposed to be a non-interference engine, but you never > know whether in the genuine 140k miles it has done, it hasn't needed a > gasket and the reciept "lost" so the head has been skimmed. WRT to being non-interference, it either is or it isn't and that should be easy to ascertain. It has to do with the piston crown / valve design, not how many times the block or head has been skimmed. I don't think it is possible to shave them so much as to make a non-interference engine become interference. The compression ratio would change too much and it would run like crap. If the shaving has taken place you are supposed to use thicker gaskets to take up the slack and not change the compression (much). Signature-Fred W > The compression ratio would change too much and it would > run like crap. If the shaving has taken place you are supposed to use > thicker gaskets to take up the slack and not change the compression (much). It was a turbo engine, when running the compression changes massively when boost builds, and it is one of those wonderful systems that "learn" the last 50 changes. If you pulled the EFI fuse, or battery, apart from idling, it would "run like crap" until it had learnt the new optimal settings, even as far as stalling at junctions etc. Needed a few "adaption" runs to set it up nice. SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com > Do it yourself, man. It can't be that hard. Yes it is http://www.turbocelica.com/AutoKB/TimingBelt.htm http://www.toyotacelicaonline.com/quyen/4.jpg http://www.aquamist.co.uk/rescr/gallery/toyota/dennis/engine.JPG It really is that tight. Cam wheels and belt are just to the left of the red oil cap. they are behind a solid metal inner wing. SignatureCarl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com |
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