Clutch pedal free play C900...

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NeedforSwede2 - 04 Oct 2005 22:52 GMT

My clutch pedal in the cab seems to have more free play than actual
travel.
I've got reciepts in the wad that came with it for a fairly recent
clutch and a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder.

Clutch action seems fine, but the bite seems low but not ecessively low.
Fluid level is good.

Any thoughts

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Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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Dave Hinz - 04 Oct 2005 22:55 GMT

> My clutch pedal in the cab seems to have more free play than actual
> travel.

I suspect air in the line.

> I've got reciepts in the wad that came with it for a fairly recent
> clutch and a rebuild kit for the slave cylinder.

Now, I _really_ suspect air in the line.

> Clutch action seems fine, but the bite seems low but not ecessively low.
> Fluid level is good.

You might have air in the line.

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Al - 04 Oct 2005 23:26 GMT

>> My clutch pedal in the cab seems to have more free play than actual
>> travel.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> You might have air in the line.

Methinks Dave (as usual) is probably correct, although bleeding the clutch
is not as simple as brakes as you'll need to pressurise the brake fluid
reservoir. You can get a kit from Halfords for this one. Bentley manual
explains the procedure.

Good luck
Al

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Charles - 05 Oct 2005 06:39 GMT

> Methinks Dave (as usual) is probably correct, although bleeding the clutch
> is not as simple as brakes as you'll need to pressurise the brake fluid
> reservoir. You can get a kit from Halfords for this one. Bentley manual
> explains the procedure.

Not if you use Dave Hinz' IV method of clutch bleeding with an elevated
turkey baster connected to the slave through a plastic tube!

Bleeds "backwards".

Works great!

Charles

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NeedforSwede2 - 05 Oct 2005 08:35 GMT

> > Methinks Dave (as usual) is probably correct, although bleeding the clutch
> > is not as simple as brakes as you'll need to pressurise the brake fluid
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Charles

I haven't tried that yet, but I already have a pressure bleeder that
uses the spare tyre. That worked last time gave the clutch and brakes a
bleed through on my last 900 after going a front caliper swap.

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Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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NeedforSwede2 - 05 Oct 2005 08:30 GMT

> >> My clutch pedal in the cab seems to have more free play than actual
> >> travel.
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> Good luck
> Al

I have a EZ-Bleed pressure bleed kit. Got one when I swapped the
calipers on my last 900.

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Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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NeedforSwede2 - 05 Oct 2005 08:30 GMT

> > My clutch pedal in the cab seems to have more free play than actual
> > travel.
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>
> You might have air in the line.

Thank you, I hoped to be the case.
Didn't want to consider a worn pin the linkage as UK cars "Swap across"
under the dash using rod.
I think it is working well enough to get me to the weekend.

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Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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John B - 05 Oct 2005 13:51 GMT

> Thank you, I hoped to be the case.
> Didn't want to consider a worn pin the linkage as UK cars "Swap across"
> under the dash using rod.

Wow! I never gave that much thought. That's true for the brake also, I would
imagine?

John

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NeedforSwede2 - 05 Oct 2005 23:17 GMT

>> Thank you, I hoped to be the case.
>> Didn't want to consider a worn pin the linkage as UK cars "Swap across"
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
>John

Yup.
Pedals are on the right, UK drivers side.
brake light switch, servo (or ABS accumulator), and the brake/clutch
cruise switches are on the left.

I changed a servo on my last 900, bit of a pig tightening four bolts,
assembling a cotter pin with washer and fitting a split pin by touch in
the dark. Removed the knee bolster, and then started unbolting stuff
until I got closer.

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Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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Grunff - 05 Oct 2005 13:55 GMT

> Didn't want to consider a worn pin the linkage as UK cars "Swap across"
> under the dash using rod.

Doesn't really make it much harder to fix. The master cylinder 'pin' is
dead easy to replace, and the other bit (that's part of the linkage) can
be welded in-situ. I did this on one of my early 900s, and it worked
very well.

But definitely try bleeding it first - that's far more likely.

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Grunff

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NeedforSwede2 - 05 Oct 2005 23:17 GMT

>> Didn't want to consider a worn pin the linkage as UK cars "Swap across"
>> under the dash using rod.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
>But definitely try bleeding it first - that's far more likely.

Don't worry, will try the bleed first.

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Carl Robson
Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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Charles - 08 Oct 2005 03:29 GMT

The C900 is notorious for wear in the hole in the clutch pedal mechanism
itself. It is common to weld the hole shut and drill a new one. Also,
the pin that goes in this hole can wear as well.

My advice is to get this fixed before shifting into reverse ruins the
transmission as it did on mine.

Check the clutch pedal mechanism for wear and get under the dash and see
if depressing the clutch pedal has a lot of play before the hydraulic
mechanism is actuated.

Charles.

> My clutch pedal in the cab seems to have more free play than actual
> travel.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Any thoughts

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