Salutations:

The leak at the gasket should probably have been repaired properly at the first pass. But it is usually not undertaken unless specifically requested.

Basically, retorquing is a sort of 'faint hope' clause that sometimes works and sometimes doesn't. The reason it probably let go was that the gasket was already too far gone to benefit from tightening.

They now have to pull the head and will probably need to mill it and the block deck to ensure that everything is properly flat again - this is not because they retorqued, it is just what you should do when you do the head. It's a good time to renew the valve seals and the timing/balance chain(s) if you are in there. Make sure the head is tested to confirm it is not cracked.

It might, in truth, be cheaper to find a working engine in a rusted shell for transplant if you do not intend to keep the car for much longer.

As to the shop not telling you. That depends pretty much entirely on the shop involved. I tend to make sure that once a given system is open (labour hours are the killer) - I spend as much time as possible trying to figure out what else they can do while they are in there.

Makes for a more expensive job at the time - but - overall less expensive in terms of total cost of a given system over time. 700 quid sounds a little expensive to me for just a gasket/milling, but not sure what the market is like in the mother country.

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I have a '96 SAAB 9000 SE.  At the end of September I had to get a lot
of work done to get it through it's MOT, along with a full service.
There was a problem with the sump and it had to be removed & sent off
for repair (it was a SAAB dealership garage), which need the engine
raising up to remove it (or something like that).  The garage also
tightened the bolts to the main cylinder head to stop an oil leak....
The total of all the work (there was a lot) came to virtually the book
price of the car.

Six weeks later, in the last 10 miles of a 150 mile round trip, the
head gasket blows... I dont know if there is anyone out there who knows
a bit about the engine of this model.  All as I have established is
that replacing the gaskett is (according to my Haynes) rated at  two
spanners of difficulty and comes under the section of in car repairs.

What I cant understand is why a leak from the head gaskett was repaired
just by tightening the bolts on a car thats done 136K and the gasket
not replaced as a matter of course? Does anyone know if this is
routine? Its just that to my mind, they must have had access to it and
now are saying it'll be a minimum of £700 to repair, thats after I
have paid to have it recovered over there and excluding any other
damage (that I have not yet dared to look for).

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Don't go to a Saab dealer. I've got an old 9000 too, and quickly worked out
it's not really worth it when I saw their labour rate.
Find a reputable local Saab specialist with a good reputation and then enjoy
cutting your garage bills by at least half.

Can I ask what the cost of the first repair was?  If they knew the head
gasket was dodgy they should have warned you in no uncertain terms of
what else can be forthcoming.  I think they owe you an explanation and
rather certainly a discount on the second job (like half price).

I don't think I would have priced a head gasket job as £700 at a SAAB
dealer, there again ... I don't know.  It should be a standard price and
your car should be getting a /discount/ for part and labour according to
its age.  All old SAABs do ... (mind you the original prices seem to get
inflated in the first place).

If you were in for an expensive repair I can understand why they would
not want to mention the head gasket needed replacement.  But if it
leaked badly enough for them to retorque it ... then it did need
replacement.

Further, even if you had chosen to do the job at the time, ie. replace
the head gasket, I am afraid given the mileage the head would have had
to be skimmed anyway.  So the cost should be no higher now than then.

Finally, given brother Dexter's comments.  When the head has to be
refaced/skimmed/milled does it have to be stripped of all valves etc?
Been there done that but I stripped it because I had to anyway (reface
valves).  If yes, then it explains the time being high.

==================
A couple of random comments.

Has that garage always serviced the car?
If yes, time they help you given the money you spend on them?  ;-)
Who is the dealer?  YOu don't have to name them .. just give us their
postcode.
Ring another saab dealer.  A head gasket + refacing should be a standard
charge (it is another story what it might actually cost).
Finally, you are keeping the car so the question is where do you repair
it/how much can you spend.  Say your area, maybe someone can suggest to
you an independent garage (I am afraid I can't.  Done them myself in the
past or at the Edinburgh dealer now).

You have my sympathy if that is of any help.

Regards
Charles

Hello Mills,
As a person who just replaced the hood, fender, bumper and radiator
mount (I was hit by a semi or lorry, for those across the pond), I can
tell you that any classic 900 hood/bonnet will work because they all are
the same. In fact there is no difference on the front end at all from
the pre-87 and the post-87 900's. The bumper, cowl and headlights are
the only different things, but they still attach the exact same way to
the exact same frame mounts. I know this because my '86 now has an '88
bumper, lights and cowl, '89 radiator mount, '92 hood, and a new oem fender.

The one thing you should check for when getting a used hood is rust
along the edges, that is a very common issue on the 900. Look inside the
fold along the back side of the hood (near the windshield) with a flash
light to make sure you are getting one that will last a while.

I got one from a Saab shop in Bow, NH. They go by the name Jocary on
ebay About a two hour drive from you up I93 (@ the Junction of I89).
Also check with Rte 128 used auto in Waltham, MA B&D Used Auto in
Shirley, MA.

Jeremy B.