Pulling TCS and ACC codes on 92 9000T?

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Charles - 28 Dec 2005 01:24 GMT

Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukah, Happy New Year!

Recently I found 2 threads here which were interesting and helpful.

My TCS CTRL light was on when we bought the car late last summer. Seller
claimed to have all parts replaced (with used, I think). Someone
mentioned the TCS valve on the firewall and I found the hose from that
to the TCS on the intake manifold was a bit tired. I replaced that and
it seems to have fixed the problem of cutting out on long steep hills at
7,000 feet elevation. However, I will believe that after it has not
happened for a few months.

Townsend has a procedure for pulling codes with the check engine light.
I seem to have the right diagnostic connector, but no check engine
light! I have a TCS CTRL light and an oil pressure light (looks like an
oil pitcher under the hood where the door open lights are). This is
apparently pre-Trionic. It seems trionic started in 93.

Does this mean I cannot pull failure codes or reset the TCS CTRL light
without a sophisticated instrument? What is the instrument and what does
it cost? Is there a method of jury-rigging an LED and switch somewhere
and getting the codes that way?

Also found a procedure for pulling codes from the ACC, which also
malfunctions from time to time, blowing hot air when you want cold, cold
when you want hot. This only works for the older models. How can one
pull codes for the newer ACC?

Apparently the outside temp sensor for the ACC comes from the EDU (trip
computer display). This was working (EDU, not outside temp) but shortly
after we bought it its lights went totally out. Mile Hi Body Shop says
it is very expensive to fix this and I cannot even see how to get it out
of the dash. I do have a spare outside temp sensor (from a 93 - is it
the same?) but cannot find where the darn thing is.

Of course, Mile Hi Body Shop also said the only way to fix the TCS is to
upgrade it for $1,700 and it seems I may have fixed it for the price of
2 feet of vacuum hosem (still waiting for 2 months without cutout to be
convinced).

If the EDU/trip computer is not working is this a real nightmare? How do
I get it out, what is the replacement cost (used, working)?

Thanks for any assistance,

Charles

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Dexter J - 29 Dec 2005 04:31 GMT

Salutations:

You and I are running one of those tricky cross over years, I was the one who piped in regarding TCS valve on firwall (in regards to my Trionic 1993).

On mine, I would pull the battery positive terminal, leave it sit overnight and do an adaptation run (or keep it below 2,500rpm for the next 10 miles or so)... Then see what transpires...

You can rig up a wire that trips the ECU to run it's codes to the dash. But it is not for the faint of heart given that if you get it backwards, or worse yet, someone has crossed something in the loom or socket(s) along the way - you can blow out the main engine ECU in the wink of an eye.

I may not be reading you correctly, do you say that your TCS and oil light are still on - but no drivability problems? If so, you may have knocking some bay wires loose when you put in your new hose.

As to your trip computer - check that the harness is all good and that the blubs are still working. You remove it by removing the ashtry from the slot, then pushing out the ACC unit with your finger tips - which gives you enough room to get an arm in to pop out the trip computer from behind.

Happy new year.

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> Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukah, Happy New Year!
>
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
>
> Charles

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Charles - 29 Dec 2005 21:56 GMT

> Salutations:
>
> You and I are running one of those tricky cross over years, I was the
> one who piped in regarding TCS valve on firwall (in regards to my
> Trionic 1993).

Ever since I replaced the (vaccum?) hose from the TCS valve on the
firewall to the throttle thing, it has not cut out on me. I still am
knocking on wood and crossing my fingers, though.

> On mine, I would pull the battery positive terminal, leave it sit
> overnight and do an adaptation run (or keep it below 2,500rpm for the
> next 10 miles or so)... Then see what transpires...

Would this reset the TCS light?

> You can rig up a wire that trips the ECU to run it's codes to the dash.
> But it is not for the faint of heart given that if you get it backwards,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> light are still on - but no drivability problems? If so, you may have
> knocking some bay wires loose when you put in your new hose.

No, the oil light and TCS CTRL lights were the only thing I saw which
remotely relates to the check engine lignt. The oil light goes out when
the car is running, the TCS CTRL light does not. See below, though

> As to your trip computer - check that the harness is all good and that
> the blubs are still working. You remove it by removing the ashtry from
> the slot, then pushing out the ACC unit with your finger tips - which
> gives you enough room to get an arm in to pop out the trip computer from
> behind.

It does not look that easy on the 92, I guess I need to take a good look
at a 93 or keep trying. The trip computer controls (INFO and R (reset))
are in a module with the clock, just to the left of the ACC control. The
display unit itself, which shows outside air temp, voltage, mpg, etc. is
between and below the speedometer and the tachometer. I need to replace
that or fix what is wrong and get it to light.

I noticed today when the sun shown on my EDU Trip computer display, that
it did seem to be working, it just is not lit so I cannot see it without
a flash light. Now it appears that the CHECK ENGINE light is in this
unit, This went out on me not too long after we bought the car. The
outside air temp shows Err as it did before.

Looking at the EDU with a flashlight it is not clear if the check engine
light is on or off. It would seem I need to get that thing to light back
up again, though.

Now I have an outside air temp sensor (the seller said this one was bad
- or is it missing?) from a 93 and I am not sure if it is the same as
for the 92 as I cannot find the outside air temp sensor on this car. I
find a plug which has nothing connected where the outside air temp
sensor might be, but it does not fit the outside air temp sensor I have
from the 93.

Thanks again for your help. Slowly I may get this thing together, but I
am starting to think the 900T was the best car they ever made (used to
think the '69 DeLuxe, was...)

Charles.

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Charles - 29 Dec 2005 23:05 GMT

> > On mine, I would pull the battery positive terminal, leave it sit
> > overnight and do an adaptation run (or keep it below 2,500rpm for the
> > next 10 miles or so)... Then see what transpires...
>
> Would this reset the TCS light?

I am a bit reluctant to do this. When they replaced my clutch at the
shop, it would not start afterwards. They had to "run the codes" or
something before it would start. So I am afraid that disconnecting the
battery might require a tow to the shop to reset the codes, whatever
that is.

Good news is that I found out where, and more to the point how, to
connect the outside temp sensor from the 93 that I had bought. There was
some goofy adapter on the one from the 93 and after removing that, it
now works. So my only problem now is the light on the EDU.

The EDC (electronic display control) is to the left of the ACC control
and I can pop that out. This contains the clock and two buttons, INFO
and R (reset?). It has a sensor which controls the brightness of the EDU
(electronic display unit), which is mounted in the instrument panel
directly under the speedometer. It shows voltage, outside temperature,
mpg and miles to empty and contains the check engine light, low oil
light, stuff like that. On Automatics, it also shows gearshift position
(PRNDL).

I will start a new thread for that.

Charles

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