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Car Forum / Saab Cars / January 20069-3 front brake caliper replacement faq, anyone?
Hey, all - I'm looking for a faq/walkthrough (with pics) of a front caliper replacement. I've done some surfing various Saab sites, and have come up empty-handed. Also - I'm running a 2002 9-3...would the Viggen rotors/calipers fit without modification? If I have the brakes apart anyway, I'd like to take the opportunity to upgrade if it's possible. Thanks :) > Hey, all - I'm looking for a faq/walkthrough (with pics) of a front > caliper replacement. I've done some surfing various Saab sites, and > have come up empty-handed. If I can ask, what is wrong with the caliper that it needs replacement? I don't think I've seen anyone else here need to do it. > Also - I'm running a 2002 9-3...would the Viggen rotors/calipers fit > without modification? If I have the brakes apart anyway, I'd like to > take the opportunity to upgrade if it's possible. Pretty straightforward. Two bolts hold the caliper to the nuckle, a screw or two hold the rotor to the hub. Nothing surprising or hidden if you're comfortable with wrench-work. If you need details, I'm sure someone here can give you more. But, if you're comfortable in that sort of area, these brakes are much more easy to work on than many. Dave Hinz >>Hey, all - I'm looking for a faq/walkthrough (with pics) of a front >>caliper replacement. I've done some surfing various Saab sites, and [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > Dave Hinz As I recall, he has one that seized.  Signature-Fred W > If I can ask, what is wrong with the caliper that it needs replacement? > I don't think I've seen anyone else here need to do it. Caliper's frozen - from what I can tell it's affecting the inside of the caliper, not the outside (as there is DEFINITELY a brake on in the right front, and there's space between the outside pad & rotor). > If you need details, I'm sure someone here can give you more. I'm afraid I've never done brake work, and could use a thorough walkthrough including draining/bleeding lines, tools necessary (I think I'm all set, got a bunch of metric sockets and torx sets out the wazoo), the works. I feel pretty comfortable with wrench-work, however I know enough to know that I'll need guidance on this first brake job :) >> If I can ask, what is wrong with the caliper that it needs replacement? >> I don't think I've seen anyone else here need to do it. > > Caliper's frozen - from what I can tell it's affecting the inside of > the caliper, not the outside (as there is DEFINITELY a brake on in the > right front, and there's space between the outside pad & rotor). Pity you'll probably have to turn in the frozen one. If you don't, I'd love to see what the failure mode of that one was. > I'm afraid I've never done brake work, and could use a thorough > walkthrough including draining/bleeding lines, tools necessary (I think > I'm all set, got a bunch of metric sockets and torx sets out the > wazoo), the works. Sounds like you've got what you'll need, nothing exotic here. The pins retaining the pads come out, the pads slide out, and this gets you close to done. The pads might be a problem if the caliper is seized. Look for a cutout on the outer edge of the rotor where the ridge won't be (car in neutral to get it aligned with the pads) - if you don't have to force the pads over that ridge it makes life that much easier. Once the pads are out, the two bolts which hold the caliper housing to the steering nuckle are your next target. There might be a locking plate on them, either way have loctite on hand to re-assemble those bolts into the nuckle. You don't want the caliper falling off. Once the bolts are loose-ish, loosen the brake line hose fittings. Remove the hose from the old caliper, put it in the new caliper with the bleeder nipple open. It'll drain fluid into your new caliper while you're doing other stuff. Get the old caliper out of the way, bolt the new one on. When liquid rather than air is coming out the bleeder nipple, close it. > I feel pretty comfortable with wrench-work, however I know enough to > know that I'll need guidance on this first brake job :) You'll have questions. Lots of helpful folks here, and you wouldn't be the first person (to say the least) to post a question mid-project. Just make sure you have your car supported with something solid when you're sticking your head partially under it, OK? Dave Hinz Sounds doable, even for someone of my limited experience (remind me to tell you about the time when I was about 20 and decided that I'd take the top of the engine off my 1991 900...). I won't be able to do the work until probably the last weekend in January, but I'll post again if I have any additional questions! > Sounds doable, even for someone of my limited experience (remind me to > tell you about the time when I was about 20 and decided that I'd take > the top of the engine off my 1991 900...). I won't be able to do the > work until probably the last weekend in January, but I'll post again if > I have any additional questions! Where are you in Mass, or more precisely, where is your car (assuming that you can't drive it far in its present brake condition). Signature-Fred W I'm in Boston, but the car's in Portland, ME. I have found an exploded diagram of the brake (located at http://www.eeuroparts.com/images/diagrams/6746334d-3b99-4e2c-8947-e6587e0b6a2e.gif ), and I can't see these pins of which you speak in it. That aside, if I were to buy a remanufactured caliper, would that get me new guide pins as well? I'm currently considering purchasing part number N1040-113911 from www.ips-parts.com > I'm in Boston, but the car's in Portland, ME. I have found an exploded > diagram of the brake (located at [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > I'm currently considering purchasing part number N1040-113911 from > www.ips-parts.com My experience replacing a rebuild front caliper on a 94cs 9k has been the allen wrench bolt head is softer. I ended up using the original bolts and returned the brand new and softer ones with the core. I think I paid only $65 at Eeuro plus core return. At that price, who'll want to rebuild it even if a rebuild kit is available? > I'm in Boston, but the car's in Portland, ME. I have found an exploded > diagram of the brake (located at > http://www.eeuroparts.com/images/diagrams/6746334d-3b99-4e2c-8947-e6587e0b6a2e.gif > ), and I can't see these pins of which you speak in it. That aside, if > I were to buy a remanufactured caliper, would that get me new guide > pins as well? No, probably not. The pins are SAAB p/n 89 69 651 and the sliders that ride on those pins are 44 67 064. Best bet is to do a disassembly first and see if you need them. You might get lucky and just need to clean everything up and reassemble with High Temp grease. > I'm currently considering purchasing part number N1040-113911 from > www.ips-parts.com That seems a pretty good price for those calipers. -- -Fred > Caliper's frozen - from what I can tell it's affecting the inside of > the caliper, not the outside (as there is DEFINITELY a brake on in the > right front, and there's space between the outside pad & rotor). Actually, if that wheel's brake is "on" but you see a space between the outer pad and rotor, that means that the caliper is frozen on it's guide pins *and* the piston is stuck inside its bore so that it is exerting force on the rotor. This sounds very odd to me. The normal failure mode is that the caliper is squeezing the rotor on both sides, still floating on the guide pins, but always exerting force on both sides of the rotor. You know, like after you hit the brakes the caliper's piston is not able to retract a little to ease off. If the caliper was only stuck on the guide pins the piston would still retract on the inside. Signature-Fred W Oh, and I have yet to remove the wheel - only examined the problem from through the spokes. |
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