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Car Forum / Saab Cars / January 2006

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'88 900S head gasket?

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James Sweet - 24 Jan 2006 08:40 GMT
The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
into the red and went down when the car was moving at a decent speed.
Tonight I checked the coolant and discovered it a bit low, added about a
quart and checked it out, car seemed to be running just fine. Checked
the oil and uh-oh, white milky crap on the dipstick. Am I right to
assume the head gasket has blown or is there anything else on these cars
that's likely to cause that symptom? Are there any tricks or tips I
should know before digging into this? I've done a number of head gaskets
before but never on a Saab. Do I need to replace the head bolts or any
other parts or should I just get a top end gasket set and replace
anything I disturb?
Fred W - 24 Jan 2006 13:02 GMT
> The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
> started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> other parts or should I just get a top end gasket set and replace
> anything I disturb?

The fact that the engine cooled down when you started moving does not
suggest a head gasket, but there is no denying the milky white evidence,
so what must (may) have happened here is that you have 2 problems...
The original problem in the cooling system which caused the overheating
and this then resulted in a head gasket leak between the water jacket
and oil galley.

Do a compression check on the engine to diagnose the head gasket.  You
will still need to sort out the cooling system problem once you get the
leak resolved.

Signature

-Fred W

Al - 24 Jan 2006 13:44 GMT
> > The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
> > started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> --
> -Fred W

My C900 was prone to overheating on her old radiator which had lost
about 20% of its fins in the crucial central area.  At a standstill
this led to the needle creeping up quite high, but once moving again
the airflow around the remaining fins was sufficient to cool her down.

Is your rad' OK?  plenty of fins there?  Water pump working properly?
10 to 1 a poor cooling efficiency led to the gasket.

I agree with Fred on compression check first, but FWIW I would budget
time and money to solve both problems at once.  One thing led to
another after all.

Al
Fred W - 24 Jan 2006 14:20 GMT
>>>The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
>>>started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> Al

I agree.  I did not mean to suggest that they should be fixed independantly.

Signature

-Fred W

James Sweet - 25 Jan 2006 03:15 GMT
>>>The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
>>>started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> Al

Radiator looks fine, car never truly overheated, the guage just started
creeping up and got about 2/3 up the arc rather than sitting at around
8:00 as it normally does. I agree that there may be two unrelated
problems, though I was thinking perhaps the low coolant caused an
airlock as she also mentioned the heater air got cool, I forgot to
include that.
Paul Halliday - 24 Jan 2006 18:38 GMT
> The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
> started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> other parts or should I just get a top end gasket set and replace
> anything I disturb?

Along with a compression test, have the coolant chemically checked for the
presence of oil/petrol.

If it checks out okay and you have good compression, then I'd start to look
at (a) the coolant and (b) the radiator. Do a full coolant change and flush
the engine through. There are ways to do half the job, but do the full job
:) Feel the radiator when warm (careful not to burn yourself) to see if
there are any cool spots. Over the years, all manner of crap  builds up in
the coolant and has a habit of settling in the radiator. Especially, if
you/former keeper has dropped in one of those Radweld products :(

Of course, it could be a stuck thermostat ... Still warm? Change the
radiator. You'll be amazed at the difference.

Good luck,

Paul

Vart tog vägen vägen?
SAAB : Nothing on earth comes close
Paul Halliday - 24 Jan 2006 18:44 GMT
>> The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
>> started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
> Of course, it could be a stuck thermostat ... Still warm? Change the
> radiator. You'll be amazed at the difference.

Sorry ... Forgot to say ... If it does turn out to be a failed head gasket,
then don't worry. It's not the big deal on C900s that it is on other cars.
Perhaps drive the minimum you need to in order to have the various
suggestions checked out.

Catch the job quick enough and it's literally, pull the head, change the
gasket and pop the head back on with no need for all that skimming and
strip-down. While the head is off, it's good to have a cursory look over
chambers for signs of abnormal wear and impending failure :)

Paul

Vart tog vägen vägen?
SAAB : Nothing on earth comes close
Dave Hinz - 24 Jan 2006 19:26 GMT
> Catch the job quick enough and it's literally, pull the head, change the
> gasket and pop the head back on with no need for all that skimming and
> strip-down. While the head is off, it's good to have a cursory look over
> chambers for signs of abnormal wear and impending failure :)

Pay special attention to the head in the area directly between the #2
and #3 exhaust valves.

Dave
James Sweet - 25 Jan 2006 03:19 GMT
>>Catch the job quick enough and it's literally, pull the head, change the
>>gasket and pop the head back on with no need for all that skimming and
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>
> Dave

What tends to happen there? Cracks?

At this point I intend to do a leakdown test and beyond that I will
likely just pull the head. The cost and time it would take me to find
someone to do chemical tests on the fluid is not worth it when I have
access to a full machine shop with all the tools needed to do the
mechanical work.

The fact that nobody mentioned any real sticky points in R&R of the head
makes me feel a lot better about the job, some cars I've done have been
very easy (Volvo 240), others were an absolute nightmare (Porsche 924
Turbo comes to mind.)
Dave Hinz - 25 Jan 2006 15:40 GMT
>> Pay special attention to the head in the area directly between the #2
>> and #3 exhaust valves.

> What tends to happen there? Cracks?

Well, it's a high heat area, and there's very little head between the
cylinders.  I've seen erosion in the head there, and I've seen gaskets
go specifically there.

> At this point I intend to do a leakdown test and beyond that I will
> likely just pull the head. The cost and time it would take me to find
> someone to do chemical tests on the fluid is not worth it when I have
> access to a full machine shop with all the tools needed to do the
> mechanical work.

Right, I'd agree.  Chocolate Milk-looking oil is enough of a chemical
analysis to tell you there's coolant in there.

> The fact that nobody mentioned any real sticky points in R&R of the head
> makes me feel a lot better about the job, some cars I've done have been
> very easy (Volvo 240), others were an absolute nightmare (Porsche 924
> Turbo comes to mind.)

The ONLY thing to watch out for is - don't drop the timing chain.  Don't
drop the timing chain, don't drop the timing chain, and whatever you do,
don't drop the timing chain.  Was this a B engine or an H engine?
Because if it's a B engine especially, you don't want to drop the timing
chain.

No, I don't want to talk about why I know that.

Dave Hinz
Richard NL - 25 Jan 2006 16:38 GMT
> The car is an '88 900S 16V, my girlfriend was driving and said it
> started to overheat today while sitting in traffic but didn't get up
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> other parts or should I just get a top end gasket set and replace
> anything I disturb?

Hi James,

> the oil and uh-oh, white milky crap on the dipstick. Am I right to
> assume the head gasket has blown or is there anything else on these cars
> that's likely to cause that symptom? Are there any tricks or tips I

FWIW:
I had some of that once, but only just under the cap on the dipstick.
Started to worry, but couldnt find anything wrong.
When I noticed it it was winter, and quite cold. Might have been
condensation inside the filler tube, over quite a long time.
Changed the oil, cleaned it all, checked some more, found nothing, and have
never seen it again.

Ries.
 
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