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Car Forum / Saab Cars / June 2006Replacing an engine in 1999 Saab
Is there any way to replace a 1999 9-5 4 cyl. 2.35 L engine without removing the transmission? If not, what is the min. clearance I need under the bumper with 4" high roller cart? Loss engine, due to turbo failure, 2 months after buying AS-IS from a small used car lot. > Is there any way to replace a 1999 9-5 4 cyl. 2.35 L engine without > removing the transmission? > If not, what is the min. clearance I need under the bumper with 4" high > roller cart? Loss engine, due to turbo failure, 2 months after buying > AS-IS from a small used car lot. I'm working on a 9-5 engine replacement right now (as in, just washed my hands to come in & check email and stuff). The entire power plant needs to come out from under the car, subframe, tranny, and all. Up goes the car, down comes the powerplant. Not a lot of fun. Dave Hinz > Is there any way to replace a 1999 9-5 4 cyl. 2.35 L engine without > removing the transmission? > If not, what is the min. clearance I need under the bumper with 4" high > roller cart? Loss engine, due to turbo failure, 2 months after buying > AS-IS from a small used car lot. Can't answer your question, but I am curious. How can a turbo failure cause the engine to require replacement?  Signature-Fred W >> Is there any way to replace a 1999 9-5 4 cyl. 2.35 L engine without >> removing the transmission? >> If not, what is the min. clearance I need under the bumper with 4" high >> roller cart? Loss engine, due to turbo failure, 2 months after buying >> AS-IS from a small used car lot. > Can't answer your question, but I am curious. How can a turbo failure > cause the engine to require replacement? Hypothetically, I suppose if the turbine shattered and became ingested, that'd be a "bad thing". But good point Fred, he might be doing more than he needs to here. Jimbo, what exactly happened as far as you can tell? >> Can't answer your question, but I am curious. How can a turbo failure >> cause the engine to require replacement? > > Hypothetically, I suppose if the turbine shattered and became ingested, > that'd be a "bad thing". But good point Fred, he might be doing more > than he needs to here. Can the bits get right through the intercooler and up into the intake manifold? Just took the cylinder head off a 1988 9000T that had dropped a small chunk of an inlet valve; couldn't find the bit anywhere and no damage to the bore or piston luckily! SignatureRichard Sutherland-Smith 19 Webb Road, Wanganui 5001, NZ > Can the bits get right through the intercooler and up into the intake > manifold? > Just took the cylinder head off a 1988 9000T that had dropped a small > chunk of an inlet valve; couldn't find the bit anywhere and no damage > to the bore or piston luckily! Hm, good point. OK, I'm officially on the "this guy needs to give us more information and we may be able to save him a tone of work" platform at this point. Dave, thankyou for the pictures as to how you raised the car. It looks like you had it raised about 20" and you felt 2 more layers would give about 28". So I figure 30" should do it for me, will let you know. I was pulling a hill (6% grade approx.) on a cool day (temp gauge never got above normal) as I crested the hill I reengaged the cruse, as the car picked up speed down the grade the engine raced 4500 RPM max (down shifting I guessed)before I hit the brake taking it out of cruse. The engine quickly died while coasting about 65 mph in Drive. I put it in netural and restarted the engine. Engine coughed and died again SID indicated low coolant. Coasted to a stop and tried again after finding coolant splashed all over the fill tank area, same results only this time it started smoking real bad. I checked compression, cyl. #2 had near 0 psi, remove head & found molten metal splatered all thru the cyl. including the head and valves, enough of the piston edge burnt that I could see the first burnt compression ring. Cylinder wall was scored big time. On removal of turbo (before removing head) found the turbo shaft could be moved sideways (as in worn bearing) & blown seal but still intact. > Dave, thankyou for the pictures as to how you raised the car. It looks like > you had it raised about 20" and you felt 2 more layers would give about > 28". So I figure 30" should do it for me, will let you know. Likewise here. I've got everything but the fuel lines disconnected (OK, how the fark do I do those, guys?), and the A/C compressor is still attached to theengine. I want to leave that in the car so I don't have to open that system. Oh, and the temperature sensor on the exhaust pipe. Stuck tighter than, well, something that's very tight. > I checked compression, cyl. #2 had near 0 > psi, remove head & found molten metal splatered all thru the cyl. > including the head and valves, > enough of the piston edge burnt that I could see the first burnt > compression ring. Cylinder wall was scored big time. Ouch. Yeah, that'll have to come out. I haven't pulled the head on mine yet so I have no idea what joys I'm in store for. > On removal of turbo > (before removing head) found the turbo shaft could be moved sideways (as > in worn bearing) & blown seal but still intact. Well, one thing at a time. That might not be a problem, they normally have more radial play than you'd think. If it spins without making scraping noises, it may be just fine. So what's your time frame? Dave On removing the fuel lines I scratched my head for a while too. Ford quick disconnects are similar to these & you can buy a set of plastic sleeve like “tools” that work great. Push rubber bushing down the pipe insert appropate plastic sleeve, pull toward coupling and off comes the quick disconnect. As to my time line, I should have a “good” used engine coming in next week and plan to put in the following week. I imagine it will be a couple weeks after that before the car is back on the road. Where is the best online place that I can get Saab parts from at a reasonable price. > Dave > On removing the fuel lines I scratched my head for a while too. Ford > quick disconnects are similar to these & you can buy a set of plastic > sleeve like tools that work great. Push rubber bushing down the pipe > insert appropate plastic sleeve, pull toward coupling and off comes the > quick disconnect. Ah, like an amp pin pusher if you're an electronics techie type. I'll stop at NAPA tomorrow and see what they have. > As to my time line, I should have a good used engine coming in next > week and plan to put in the following week. I imagine it will be a couple > weeks after that before the car is back on the road. You seem to be far more motivated than I am, or you don't have so many people pulling at your time. Lucky you! > Where is the best online place that I can get Saab parts from at a > reasonable price. eeuroparts.com (notice two e's at the start). For current models such as this, they're a great source. Good source for exploded diagrams for reference too, far as that goes. (no affiliation with them, satisfied customer, blah blah standard disclaimer stuff here) Do you have pics of your project? I've got webspace if you want a place to post 'em. Dave Yes, I do have some good pictures and wouldn't mine posting them. Get the address to me and I,ll do that. Jim > Yes, I do have some good pictures and wouldn't mine posting them. Get the > address to me and I,ll do that. Jim Do you have a unix/linux/mac system? If so that simplifies things. Otherwise if you're on windows let me know and I'll figure out a least painful way to do it. myname as above, at gmail dot com, and email 'em to me if nothing else. Dave Yes I am on windows. Jim > Yes I am on windows. Jim Go ahead and zip 'em up and mail them to me (if you have a fast connection at davehinz at gmail dot com Dave Dave did you get my pictures yet? I sent them this am. Jim > Dave did you get my pictures yet? I sent them this am. Jim Yup, but work really sucked today so I'll get 'em posted tommorow. Got some text for 'em? Dave Did you get the text I sent for those pictures? I have the super sub frame out from under the car and the engine\tranny on a special type tranny jack. Clean-up time now, before installing "good" used engine. How are things comming along for you and why are you removing your engine? Jim > Dave > Did you get the text I sent for those pictures? I have the super sub > frame out from under the car and the engine\tranny on a special type > tranny jack. Clean-up time now, before installing "good" used engine. How > are things comming along for you and why are you removing your engine? Yeah I got them, but work has been absolute hell (as in, GET ME OUT OF HERE) lately. |
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