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Car Forum / Saab Cars / November 2006Stubborn Front Brake Rotor
Hi, I'm doing rotors and pads on a 1999, 9-3, manual. The passenger side worked like a charm, everything came off nicely and went back together in no time. The driver side however is proving to be quite a dog. First, the screw holding the rotor would not come off. I lubed it, tapped it, used a manual impact wrench with the proper 5mm torx, would not budge. So I went the drilling way. The first half broke, so there's a piece left in the hub. !@#$%! However, I thought I'll deal with it once the rotor is off. Again, taped it with a 2.5lbs hammer (wood block used), had a 3 gear puller on it, to keep it under a bit of tension etc., it would not move at all. I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a torch and try hammering out again. What do you guys think? Many thanks, Ben >I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a >torch and try hammering out again. Well, I had some tips for getting it out... but it's too late for that :-) If you are sure that the screw is not holding it in, and you have removed the caliper, and you are replacing the rotor... here's what I'd do: spray some PB blast around the hub area. The only thing holding the rotor on is the rust at the center of the ring. Then put in your ear plugs and start whacking it with the 8 lb sledge around the outer edge as you rotate it. Eventually the rust will break free and it will come off. Hitting it on the edge (radially) may also help. If you are not replacing the rotor, strategy is the same - just use a wood block and be gentle. >>I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > If you are not replacing the rotor, strategy is the same - just use a > wood block and be gentle. Yep. I was going to say exactly what Bob said. Except to add that to remove the small rotor screw, you should be able to drill off the head by using a bit that is slightly larger than the screw thread diameter but smaller than the head of the screw. Once you drill out all the tapered part the head will fly right off. Once the head is gone you should be able to get it out with some vice grips (after the disk has been removed) no problem. Just make sure to juice it with PBblaster and let it soak a while.  Signature-Fred W >>> I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>> screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > grips (after the disk has been removed) no problem. Just make sure to > juice it with PBblaster and let it soak a while. Thanks guys! I'm off to get some Kroil, or/and PB and a bigger sledge. I'll try to get the complete screw out and I'll re-spray and let it sit overnight. Then, the sledge. I hope I will not end up replacing the whole hub! Thanks again! >>>> I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>>> screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > > I hope I will not end up replacing the whole hub! You might :-) Why did you want to remove the rotor (disk) if you were only changing the pads? As others said ... if the top of it broke the rotor should come free quite easy and leave all drilling until after you have the rotor off. What is the head of the screw on a 9-3 like. Pozidrive (spelling?) size 1? if yes it would have needed an impact screwdriver like so http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37530 Use copper paste on reassembly. Good luck. Charles SignaturePlease remove _removeme_ to reply. >>>>>I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>>>>screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > Good luck. > Charles Hi Charles, Here's a snippet of the original post: "I'm doing rotors and pads on a 1999, 9-3, manual. The passenger side worked like a charm, everything came off nicely and went back together in no time. The driver side however is proving to be quite a dog. First, the screw holding the rotor would not come off. I lubed it, tapped it, used a manual impact wrench with the proper 5mm torx, would not budge." So, I was doing rotors from the beginning and I used a manual impact driver, but nevertheless thanks for the advice! Here's a link to a pic of the screw (mid-page, I believe): http://www.thesaabsite.com/93/93Brakes.htm Also, my WIS says it's a lock screw that should be tightened at 3 lbsft, so it's not a highly tightened screw, however it's location make is corrode easily etc..... So, I drenched the disk/hub/all openings in PB last night (gave it a few good taps for measure), and I'll try again tonight... see what happens. Lucky I have the 9-5 to drive around for now! Thanks, Ben >>>>>> I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>>>>> screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > > "I'm doing rotors and pads on a 1999, 9-3, manual. <snip> A clear indication that I can't read and I should not post to n/groups too late at night :-D Oh, damn here I go do it again. I am sorry, I should have read all your post and not the bits I wanted to remember. Charles SignaturePlease remove _removeme_ to reply. >>>>>>>I'm considering, drilling a small hole in the left half of the rotor >>>>>>>screw and try a screw extractor. Then maybe warm the disk up with a [quoted text clipped - 61 lines] > > Charles Long story short, I ended up replacing the steering knuckle + hub. For $200CAD I got the whole thing from a scrap yard. It is in excellent shape (compared to mine) and even the wheel bearing looked new. The brake disk and the holding screw came off it without a hitch, I swapped my strut insert and coil spring, used the better thrust bearing and it went on the car asap. New brake disk and pads went on, I made sure to use copper grease on the biding faces. The car runs great, no more vibrations or noises and I did an alignment already (had to put winters on anyway). I took the old hub and stuck disk to work, where we tried using all kinds of presses, a torch and a hammer chisel. The disk is not coming off the hub. So me and my 4lb hammer and a wood block were going nowhere... In the long run, I think I made the right decision. 200,000 km and running great! Thanks all for help, Ben |
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