>I have no driver side high beam. There is nothing wrong with the bulb. I
>think there is something wrong with the wire. Is there a place where I can
>find wiring schematics for this car? Thx.
> >I have no driver side high beam. There is nothing wrong with the bulb. I
> >think there is something wrong with the wire. Is there a place where I can
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> The standard failure mode is for the solder joints between the PCB and
> the base to crack, so re-flowing them fixes it.
I had this problem with my 9000.
Yes, resoldering does it. Thankfully.
Graham
"Colin Stamp" <col.dustbin@stamp.plus.com> wrote in message
> I'm not sure about 2002 9-5s, but my 2001 9-3 has the infamous Hella
> lamp-fail sensor, which tends to fail itself, causing the fault it's
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>
> Colin.
Colin, I'd like to thak you for helping to fix my car. The problem was
exactly where you suggested, the orange Hella lamp sensor digital relay made
in Germany. Someone suggested to replace the two transistors on the board
(one is PNP the other is NPN) and also replacing the two 8-pin IC chips,
they only cost a few cents at Digikey.com; but since I didn't want to wait
for the parts, I resoldered the solder joints as you suggested and now the
lamp fail sensor works like a charm. Thangs again for your kind help and I
also wish to thank all the others who were willing to help.
As it turns out, this orange lamp sensor is put together very poorly because
I see that there are many people out there who have the same problem. I had
the problem fixed in about 5 minutes. I wonder how many poor souls out there
pay the car dealer large sums of money to fix this small problem.
Thanks, guys.... :)
Colin Stamp - 28 Nov 2007 18:45 GMT
>Colin, I'd like to thak you for helping to fix my car.
No probs :o)
>The problem was
>exactly where you suggested, the orange Hella lamp sensor digital relay made
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>for the parts, I resoldered the solder joints as you suggested and now the
>lamp fail sensor works like a charm.
You did the right thing leaving the transistors and op-amps as they
were. If there was a problem with any of those, the symptoms would be
different - either false alarms or failure to detect real blown bulbs.
If it actually stops a headlight working, it can only be the solder
joints or the current shunts, which are just bits of metal.
>Thangs again for your kind help and I
>also wish to thank all the others who were willing to help.
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>
>Thanks, guys.... :)
Cheers,
Colin.