Sometimes you get lucky and it is only a hose clamp that needs to be
tightened. Many of the original clamps are single use and crimped in place.
You have to cut those off (the band not the rubber) and replace with an
adjustable one from the parts store. First place to check is hose
connections, then hoses themselves. Also check the water pump seal for
leaks.
 Once you've got fluids all over the outside of the engine, makes finding
leaks difficult. Sometimes the easiest way (short of adding a UV dye to the
coolant) is to wash down the engine with hot soapy water (steam clean?) and
wait for it to dry before running the motor. Much easier to find a leak on a
clean field. Helps too if you are doing this in a warm climate instead of
the miserable northeast where I am now.

Brakes - Some cars with ABS brakes need a tool to cycle the ABS and remove
trapped air. Others can be bled like conventional systems. I've heard that
with ABS you can bleed the system, go and make a hard stop so the ABS
engages and then bleed again. Pain in the tail. My L300 does not need any
tool to bleed.
Make sure that the resevior is full and start with the right rear wheel.
Open the bleed port and attach a short clear hose to it. put the open end of
the hose in a bottle with a bit of brake fluid at the bottom. have a friend
pump the brakes slowly and watch the fluid come out. While the brake is
still down, close the bleed port or pinch the hose. let the brake up, open
or release the hose and push the brake down again.  repeat until you get
clean fluid out and no bubbles. Close the bleed port and repeat for left
rear, right front and left front. Be sure that you keep the reservoir filled
or you'll be starting over.

   Oppie