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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / April 2005

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50 Champ Fuses

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John - 05 Apr 2005 05:30 GMT
Hi all,
I'm new to the newsgroup, and new to Studebakers.  I just bought a 1950
Champion convertible, which I've wanted since I was 12.  It looks and runs
great!  I just have a quick question while I wait for delivery of my
manuals.  Does anyone know where I can find the fuse for the break lights?

Thanks.
Dwain G. - 05 Apr 2005 06:22 GMT
Not the same exact car you knew from age 12?
Actually, instead of a fuse I think they were still using an 'auxiliary
lighting' circuit breaker in 1950. It's located behind the instrument
cluster near the ammeter. It should reset itself if tripped, and
probably isn't the problem. Go to the brake light switch at the master
cylinder and check for power to one side. If it does, jump the switch
terminals and see if the brake lights work. This car has turn signals?
John - 06 Apr 2005 02:12 GMT
"Dwain G." <jdwain@gmail.com> wrote in news:1112678571.331391.286840
@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> Not the same exact car you knew from age 12?
> Actually, instead of a fuse I think they were still using an 'auxiliary
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> cylinder and check for power to one side. If it does, jump the switch
> terminals and see if the brake lights work. This car has turn signals?

I'm sure it isn't.  When I was growing up in Ohio, Indiana ran a bunch of
tourism ads featuring a red bulletnose convertible driving on some of their
more scenic roads.  It was love at first sight.

I don't remember if it was a 50 or 51, Champion or Commander, heck, I'm not
even positive it was a convertible.  But I've wanted a bulletnose
convertible for as long as I can remember.

It does have turn signals.  All lights work except for the stop lights.  I
already checked the bulbs and the wires look good, so it sounds like it's
probably the switch.  I have to replace the master cylinder anyway, so
hopefully I can get it working this weekend.  Thanks for the info.
Bill Glass - 05 Apr 2005 12:59 GMT
> Hi all,
> I'm new to the newsgroup, and new to Studebakers.  I just bought a 1950
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Thanks.

I believe the fuses are really circuit
breakers and are located on the switch
itself.

Bill
Nate Nagel - 05 Apr 2005 13:03 GMT
>> Hi all,
>> I'm new to the newsgroup, and new to Studebakers.  I just bought a
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
>
> Bill

In most cases that is true but not for the brake lights, the switch is a
pressure switch under the hood not a mechanical switch under the dash
like most modern cars.  check out studebakerparts.com for a wiring
diagram, I haven't worked on a '50 so I don't know the answer to the
OP's question.

If the reason he's asking is because his lights are not working, it's
probably the switch itself which is readily available at your FLAPS.  I
believe the same switch is still used on Harley-Davidsons which means
they will be available for a while.

nate
Signature

replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

64daytonaht - 05 Apr 2005 14:34 GMT
No fuse for brake lights.  The switch is fluid/pressure activated and is
mounted directly onto the master cylinder.

It has two wires connected to it.  With a tester light, first check to see
if you have power feeding into the switch.  Touching one terminal should
light up your tester, touching the other should not light up until you have
someone depress the brake pedal.  If you have no power  feeding into the
switch you probably have a short in the wiring harness, or corrosion at the
main power supply.  Another possibility is a build up of crap in the rear of
the master cylinder that is plugging the fluid feed into the switch itself.
If you have power feeding into the switch, but nothing coming out after the
pedal is depressed, the switch is either no good, or the connectors are
corroded.  If you have power feed to the rear harness, but still no brake
lights, then you could have a short in the tail light harness, corrosion
between the bulbs and bulb retainer, loose fit between bulbs and retainer
(loss of ground), loose retainer where it is mounted to housing (loss of
ground), or bad bulbs.

Bo (if all else fails, use hand and arm signals)
Bill Glass - 05 Apr 2005 14:51 GMT
> No fuse for brake lights.  The switch is fluid/pressure activated and is
> mounted directly onto the master cylinder.

Doessn't the brake lights as with all
the other lights, other than the BU and
under hood lights pass through the
circuit breaker on the headlight switch?

Bill  ZZZAAAAAP Glass
64daytonaht - 05 Apr 2005 20:39 GMT
Bill,

I had forgotton about the auxiliary circuit breaker.  Mine is connected to
the auxiliary circuit breaker mounted adjacent the ampmeter and feeds
directly into the ampmeter, which feeds from the battery terminal on the ign
switch.

Bo
John - 06 Apr 2005 02:48 GMT
Thanks for the info.  I double checked the manual I got with the car, and
it is a breaker, not a fuse.  It's the auxiliary breaker that looks to also
power the dome lamp, instrument panel, and turn signals, and they all work
fine.  I have to replace the master cylinder anyway, so hopefully I'll be
able to kill two birds with one stone.

Would I be better off with DOT3 or DOT4 break fluid?

Thanks again.
64daytonaht - 06 Apr 2005 03:07 GMT
If your going to drive the car on a regular bases, the DOT3 stuff is fine.
If the car is going to sit in the garage 3 to 6 months between driving,the
silicon stuff will work better and will preserve the system.

Just be aware that the silicon stuff will leak out of places you'd never
expect, or see DOT3 to, so the system has to be throughly cleaned out, and
everything has to be rebuilt, and or replaced with new stuff, including the
stop light switch.  The old type switch isn't to keen on the silicon stuff.

If you use the silicon stuff, go down to your local Harley Davidson dealer
and get one of the switches they use, as it is the right size, thread and is
compatible with the silicon fluid.

Bo
Joe Baty - 06 Apr 2005 10:49 GMT
Congrats on the car!  Dot 4 has a higher boiling temp than Dot 3...in other
words it is better.  Dot 4 is not silicon (silicon is Dot 5) you can use Dot
4 in place of Dot 3 without any problems.

Joe

> Thanks for the info.  I double checked the manual I got with the car, and
> it is a breaker, not a fuse.  It's the auxiliary breaker that looks to
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>
> Thanks again.
64daytonaht - 06 Apr 2005 13:12 GMT
Ah, yes.  Finger and brain fatigue aren't a good combination when using a
keyboard.  It should read DOT4 where I have inadvertently written DOT3.

Bo
Robert Kapteyn - 09 Apr 2005 14:26 GMT
Welcome to Studebakers.
You will find all kinds of help on this newsgroup.

If the car has turn signals it is possible that the turn switch is bad.
The brake light circuit goes thru the turn signal switch because the
filaments in the stop light bulbs double as turn signal filaments.
Fastest way to check is to connect the two wires that go to the brake
light switch together and see if the brake light comes on.
If so ,than replace the brake light switch.
The Harley switch has flat spade connectors so make sure that you buy
addaptors or install 1/4" flat blade connectors.

Signature

R.Kapteyn

 
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