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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / April 2005

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I hate Body work

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John Poulos - 14 Apr 2005 22:44 GMT
  I'm getting better at it though. <g> I figured I'd save to 3-4 K to
strip and paint the green wrapper and I'm getting the hang of it. The
key seems to be patience, I've spent maybe 6 hours on the dent lid. It
seems even a straight car that's never been painted still needs lot of
spot filler and blocking. Even the factory used putty here and there. I
invested in a $50 set of rubber sanding blocks that will sand
everything. It has long blocks, short ones, thin ones, even a round one.
  I stocked up on lots of good sand paper and will  just plug along
until it's done. BTW, is the self etching primer weatherproof for the
few weeks this is going to take.
JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck
Nate Nagel - 14 Apr 2005 22:46 GMT
>   I'm getting better at it though. <g> I figured I'd save to 3-4 K to
> strip and paint the green wrapper and I'm getting the hang of it. The
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> until it's done. BTW, is the self etching primer weatherproof for the
> few weeks this is going to take.

If it is epoxy, yes.  epoxy primer is just as good as paint in terms of
protecting the sheetmetal.

nate

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John Poulos - 14 Apr 2005 22:49 GMT
I don't think it is, the stuff with the activator goes on next.

>>   I'm getting better at it though. <g> I figured I'd save to 3-4 K to
>> strip and paint the green wrapper and I'm getting the hang of it. The
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>
> nate

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Robert Black - 14 Apr 2005 22:55 GMT
I could never do it every day,but I can really get into it on a car I
like.Steady, honest work that shows up in the end(specially if you paint
them all black)
>I don't think it is, the stuff with the activator goes on next.
>
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>
>> nate
Studeman - 14 Apr 2005 23:19 GMT
Etching primer will last about 6 mo outside exposed to the elements.(I
know this to be a FACT <G>).. It will last ALOT longer if the (urethane)
high-build is put on over it. If you plan on using
laquer-primer-surfacer, it won't help the longevity. But you'll have a
few weeks anyway...

For stripping a car manually- nothing works better than an 8" DA "Mud
Hog" with 40 grit sandpaper.

I usually use a double-layer of duct-tape over all the door/fender and
hood gaps (and trim holes)- then use aircraft stripper. UNLESS- the car
has been painted with Laquer at any time... The laquer just liquifies
and makes an awful mess. The wide panels of the roof, decklid, and hood
can be scraped very easily with a razor-blade. Remove the tape, follow
up with a vinegar bath, and then sand up to the gaps with 80 grit- and
you're done.

Ray

>   I'm getting better at it though. <g> I figured I'd save to 3-4 K to
> strip and paint the green wrapper and I'm getting the hang of it. The
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
> 55 Speedster
> 50 2R 10 truck
John Poulos - 14 Apr 2005 23:30 GMT
   I intend to cover the self etching stuff with the 3 part urethane
sandable primer. I 'might' top that with lacquer primer if I need more
fill.  (unless you advise otherwise)

> Etching primer will last about 6 mo outside exposed to the elements.(I
> know this to be a FACT <G>).. It will last ALOT longer if the (urethane)
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
>> 55 Speedster
>> 50 2R 10 truck

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Dexter - 15 Apr 2005 00:52 GMT
Don't use lacquer primer!  If you want an inexpensive high build Euro type
primer, try the Marhyde brand.  It builds like crazy and sands easy.  You
can go down to final sand with it.  Shrinkage is minimal.  We've been using
it for about  years.  Use to use PPG's 2K.
BTW, if you use Studmans mud hog method, go back over the metal with 100
grit to remove the heavy scratches.  I'm paranoid about corrosion even
though we use an acid activated wash prime.
>     I intend to cover the self etching stuff with the 3 part urethane
> sandable primer. I 'might' top that with lacquer primer if I need more
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
> >> 55 Speedster
> >> 50 2R 10 truck
Studeman - 15 Apr 2005 02:11 GMT
Dexter...
I forgot to add the part about sanding with 80 Grit next.... thanx...
I always prime immediately with epoxy..

Ray

> Don't use lacquer primer!  If you want an inexpensive high build Euro type
> primer, try the Marhyde brand.  It builds like crazy and sands easy.  You
[quoted text clipped - 47 lines]
>>>>55 Speedster
>>>>50 2R 10 truck
Studeman - 15 Apr 2005 02:10 GMT
Urethane ONLY.. It fills better and sands easier, and really isn't that
much more $$$$

Ray

>    I intend to cover the self etching stuff with the 3 part urethane
> sandable primer. I 'might' top that with lacquer primer if I need more
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>>> 55 Speedster
>>> 50 2R 10 truck
Dexter - 15 Apr 2005 00:45 GMT
Please explain the purpose od the "vinegar bath"!!

> Etching primer will last about 6 mo outside exposed to the elements.(I
> know this to be a FACT <G>).. It will last ALOT longer if the (urethane)
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> > 55 Speedster
> > 50 2R 10 truck
Studeman - 15 Apr 2005 02:15 GMT
I pour straight vinegar on the car, and wash it around with a red
scotchbrite pad. Then I rinse the whole car off with water. Remove the
tape, and re-sand with 80 grit, Blow/wipe off the excess dust, and epoxy
prime immediately. The vinegar helps nuetralize and remove the stripper.

Ray

> Please explain the purpose od the "vinegar bath"!!
>
[quoted text clipped - 34 lines]
>>>55 Speedster
>>>50 2R 10 truck
John Poulos - 15 Apr 2005 02:38 GMT
I know it's slow, but I'm D-A-ing the whole car. (The dry Arizona paint
comes off pretty easy.)

> I pour straight vinegar on the car, and wash it around with a red
> scotchbrite pad. Then I rinse the whole car off with water. Remove the
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
>>>> 55 Speedster
>>>> 50 2R 10 truck

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Studeman - 15 Apr 2005 02:40 GMT
Whatever floats yer... er... trips yer...er..... strips yer Studie?

Ray

> I know it's slow, but I'm D-A-ing the whole car. (The dry Arizona paint
> comes off pretty easy.)
[quoted text clipped - 48 lines]
>>>>> 55 Speedster
>>>>> 50 2R 10 truck
John Poulos - 15 Apr 2005 02:46 GMT
I was stupid enough to think a dent free car with factory paint would
not have any filler. Should I expect to find a little everywhere, or
just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.

> Whatever floats yer... er... trips yer...er..... strips yer Studie?
>
[quoted text clipped - 56 lines]
>>>>>> 55 Speedster
>>>>>> 50 2R 10 truck

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Studeman - 15 Apr 2005 02:54 GMT
AHHH hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!
(sorry... I love it when people realize there's more to this job- and
it's not always "that easy"..)

Ray (lost his a.s a few times thinking- "Oh, this'll be easy...")

> I was stupid enough to think a dent free car with factory paint would
> not have any filler. Should I expect to find a little everywhere, or
> just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
> poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.
John Poulos - 15 Apr 2005 03:50 GMT
If I get this done with under 80-100 hours of labor, I'll be surprised.
Might take you half that, but I've only painted a half dozen cars. The
good news, I bought a lot of neat tools I can use for the nest one.

> AHHH hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!
> (sorry... I love it when people realize there's more to this job- and
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>> just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
>> poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
64 Challenger (Green Wrapper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
55 Speedster
50 2R 10 truck

Alex M - 15 Apr 2005 04:46 GMT
I didn't keep track on the Stude but I did a complete strip, prime,
straighten and apply and color sand a lacquer paint job on a 78 Cadillac
Seville and it took me 210 hours.

> If I get this done with under 80-100 hours of labor, I'll be
> surprised. Might take you half that, but I've only painted a half
[quoted text clipped - 13 lines]
>>> because of the piss poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die
>>> marks.
Jim Turner - 15 Apr 2005 04:38 GMT
Ray,
Yep, been there, done that! I am about ready to prime my 62 ragtop to do the
final block. I have it blocked with 150, need to do the 2 part seam sealer
on the 1/4's and seams.
This is the one I bought off eBay last year, that the PO, had "just finished
all the body work and had fresh paint on it" doesn't have any paint anymore!
<G> and 3/4 of the "bondo" is now gone too, I also cut off his "new"
rockers, recut the "new floor" pulled the body back so the doors had real
metal gaps, (not 1 inch of bondo to make a gap) Now she's about ready for
some color, which the paint store I deal with is donating, (helps to buy
15-16K in materials a month too)<G> It will be DuPont BC/CC Still debating
if I'm going to make it a "pace car" clone, if I do, the lettering will be
painted on, and clear coated over, color sanded and buffed so no edge will
be felt, but, since I plan on selling the car, I may not do that.

Jim Turner
> AHHH hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!
> (sorry... I love it when people realize there's more to this job- and
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
> > just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
> > poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.
Lee Aanderud - 15 Apr 2005 13:30 GMT
Talk to Lee DeLaBarre about the lettering, I think he said they used the
"negative" of some vinyl letters for a template... probably alot cheaper
than finding a sign painter who could do it freehand.

Lee

> Ray,
> Yep, been there, done that! I am about ready to prime my 62 ragtop to do
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>> > just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
>> > poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.
Lee - 15 Apr 2005 14:52 GMT
I have been trying to catch up with my painter to get another set of
templates for the letters but he has been busy and I have not caught
him in the shop.

>Talk to Lee DeLaBarre about the lettering, I think he said they used the
>"negative" of some vinyl letters for a template... probably alot cheaper
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
>>> > just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
>>> > poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.

Lee DeLaBarre
Daytona62
TomNoller - 15 Apr 2005 16:13 GMT
<< I love it when people realize there's more to this job- and it's not
always "that easy">>

So true!  An old body-knocker pal says if it WERE easy, everybody'd be
fixing their own and body shops would be out of business.
Bill Glass - 16 Apr 2005 03:41 GMT
>>>not have any filler. Should I expect to find a little everywhere, or
>>>just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
>>>poor stocking of the sheet metal and some die marks.

When taking inventory of the parts that
came with the convertible, some parts
would be considered b todays standards
as harder to find than hens teeth. I got
two brand new cosmetic pieces of sheet
metal which are the door pillars  on
47-52  everything. In preping them i
found that they both had archeological
deposits of lead, used by the fctor to
make them look straight.

Even today when you watch cars being
made  ou will find instances where lead
or filler is applied.

Which brings me to this cute story. On
the way home from DC we stopped to take
some relief. As Ellen was backing out,
the Navigator caame to a halt and  the
horrible sound of a thump.

Some guy decided he could get around us
before we macked out fully. From drivers
door to tail light his car is totally
wrecked, needs center door post, rear
door, rear quarter, trunk and rear end.
Damage to 'gator a tear in the plastic
rear bumper in the corner. As of now our
bill for the bumper is $932, I would
guesstimate almost 7 times that for the
malibu. State Trooper could not figure
out how to write up this one.

BG
Mark Dunning - 19 Apr 2005 19:52 GMT
You are in for an insurance treat- My company FXXked us when the same thing
happenned to My Sweet Patootie a few years ago.

Not our fault and my bill still went up.  I switched companies right away.

Mark (ouch) Dunning

>>>>not have any filler. Should I expect to find a little everywhere, or
>>>>just the hood and trunk ? Dennis says they used it because of the piss
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> BG
 
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