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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / June 2005Lark transmission quandry
I'm not sure which way to go with a problem I'm having with my 60 Lark VIII....maybe the experts here can shed a little light on what would be the best (and cheapest since I'm a cheap SOB) way to go. The problem I have with my automatic is that it works fine once it's warmed up. Until it's either allowed to sit running in gear (with the e-brake on and my foot on the brake)until it warms up it won't shift from the pull out gear into drive. Once it warms up and shifts for the first time into drive it will work fine for as long as I'm driving it...it'll shift just like it did from the factory. If I stop and let it sit for more then a half hour or so, then I got to go through the whole routine again. I've changed the screen and fluid and adjusted the bands per the service manual with no obvious change in the way it works. Is this a problem that can maybe remidied without pulling the transmission? If not, I know where a 59 wagon is sitting with everything I need to convert it to a manual transmission (the wagon is a 3 speed, but I do already have an S-10 5 speed which I believe I can use). I wouldn't mind leaving the automatic in the car, but if I have to pull it to fix it, I think I'd just as soon convert it to manual an use the 5 speed (I'd keep the 3 speed set up for return to factory specs just in case). Any advice would be appreciated Tired transmission. Time to rebuild. Something between $400.00 and $600.00, depending on what's needed inside. Sounds like O-rings and seals. Does it make a whining noise in park and reverse, too? Bo $400 - $600 to rebuild a FOM? You sure don't live in SoCal - or want to. > Tired transmission. Time to rebuild. Something between $400.00 and > $600.00, depending on what's needed inside. Sounds like O-rings and seals. > Does it make a whining noise in park and reverse, too? > > Bo  SignatureRemove all the x's to email. What's wrong with answering a few simple questions? http://johnconyers.com/ 1953 Starlight Coupe 1954 Starlight Coupe R1/4-speed 1958 Silver Hawk 1960 Frua Italia Larks (2 - they're here!) 1962 Lark VI 1963 Avanti R2 R4324 1963 Lark Cruiser (R2 3/4 clone in progress) 1963 GT Hawk 1963 Daytona Wagonaire 1964 Cruiser (Survivor) 1956 2E7 2000 Boxster S 2000 Ducati 748 2002 Jeep Overland 2004 Ducati Monster 1000 http://homepage.mac.com/pdrnec/PhotoAlbum81.html To cheap? I could raise my rates! How about $1,200.00? Bo > $400 - $600 to rebuild a FOM? You sure don't live in SoCal - or want to. > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >> >> Bo around $900 is the going rate > To cheap? I could raise my rates! How about $1,200.00? > [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >>> >>>Bo SignatureRemove all the x's to email. What's wrong with answering a few simple questions? http://johnconyers.com/ 1953 Starlight Coupe 1954 Starlight Coupe R1/4-speed 1958 Silver Hawk 1960 Frua Italia Larks (2 - they're here!) 1962 Lark VI 1963 Avanti R2 R4324 1963 Lark Cruiser (R2 3/4 clone in progress) 1963 GT Hawk 1963 Daytona Wagonaire 1964 Cruiser (Survivor) 1956 2E7 2000 Boxster S 2000 Ducati 748 2002 Jeep Overland 2004 Ducati Monster 1000 http://homepage.mac.com/pdrnec/PhotoAlbum81.html Ok! Done deal. I now charge $900.00 to totally rebuild a Flight-O-Matic transmission. Plus crating and shipping, of course. Can go via Greyhound, but insured only to $300.00. Bo (BG) > around $900 is the going rate > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >>>> >>>>Bo I sounds like your tranny is gummed up bad. If it works perfectly at operating temperature, you might try a can of Trans-X. If it can be freed up, that stuff will do it. Do not leave the Trans-X in the tranny for too long. No more than a few days. Replace with new fluid of your choice; Dextron or Type F (for a firmer shift). JT > I'm not sure which way to go with a problem I'm having with my 60 Lark > VIII....maybe the experts here can shed a little light on what would be [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Any advice would be appreciated When this car is started cold and shifted into D or R, will the trans go into gear right away, or is there a hesitation before you feel it engage? If it isn't showing signs of 'morning sickness' I would suspect a sticky governor first. On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 21:34:51 -0700, you wrote: >When this car is started cold and shifted into D or R, will the trans go >into gear right away, or is there a hesitation before you feel it engage? If >it isn't showing signs of 'morning sickness' I would suspect a sticky >governor first. my hawk will do that, and it had low fluid, plus a mis adjusted pump as well.. --Shiva-- > On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 21:34:51 -0700, you wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > pump as well.. > --Shiva-- Well, I knew I'd get some advice.... Yes the transmission will go right in drive, and most of the time right into reverse (sometimes reverse is a little slow going in, but no more then a 2 or 3 seconds before you feel it drop in). the only real difficulty it has is the shift from second (or pull out gear) into drive, but again like I said, once it goes in, it will shift fine for as long as I'm driving it. So should the trans-x work, or should I read up on some more of the adjustments that were discussed? See Pat, you found a cheaper place to get a transmission rebuilt then southern California......BUT watch where you go on the east coast, because I was talking to one guy with a 58 Hawk and he paid over two grand to have his rebuilt (at least that's what he told me, wheather he's a BSer or not, I don;t know). well, myself having myself put together a working FOM to put in my lark, I would advise the following: A) unless you are very mechinacaly inclined (like me), and have automatic transmission tools (or can borrow them them), I'd not attempt a full rebuild. I have much mechanics experience and it still was a challenge to completely rebuild mine. B) if you do have your FOM rebuilt, don't believe anyone who says "I can rebuild it for $150", and if you do find someone who will quote "rebuild" it for $150, its not going to be a rebuild, just a "fix whats busted and hope that the rest is okay". In my neck of the woods a good complete rebuild runs $600- $800. + torque converter. C) My personal suggestion would be go with the manual, but be advised that you might pull your hair out finding all the linkage to convert. You will have to drop the engine oil pan to change crankshaft bolts, as the manual uses longer ones. In my opinion your transmission sounds like it needs a overhaul. It COULD be gummed up, but since you changed the fluid and were in there adjusting the bands, I would say you would have noticed if it was a sludge-special. Kent > well, myself having myself put together a working FOM to put in my > lark, I would advise the following: [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Kent I'm pretty good mechanically...over the last thirty years or so I've built quite a few cars (racing, hot rod / street rod, and restorations) but I've never attempted an automatic rebuild, and to be honest, at this point I'm not ready to start. That's why I say if I can get some "miracle drug" that will help this automatic survive and be usable for a while, I'll try it. Otherwise the 59 Wagon I mentioned has everything to convert mine except a magical elf to do the work for me <G> As far as when I dropped the pan....yes there was some gunk in the pan and the fluid wasn't the nice red is should have been (kind of dark), which is why, since I had the pan down I replaced the filter and cleaned what I could. I'm going to hunt down some Trans-X and keep my fingers crossed, plus someone mentioned pump / govenor adjustments, I'm going to read up on what I can do there to. Thanks again to everyone who helped with suggestions > > On Tue, 28 Jun 2005 21:34:51 -0700, you wrote: > > [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > So should the trans-x work, or should I read up on some more of the > adjustments that were discussed? If there is a slow engagement to reverse, a band adjustment may be in order. The same band serves low & reverse. If the problem is with the governor, Trans-X may help. If it does, after you replace the fluid, add a bottle of LubeGuard which is available from most transmission parts depots. You will seldom find this stuff at FLAPS though. > See Pat, you found a cheaper place to get a transmission rebuilt then > southern California......BUT watch where you go on the east coast, > because I was talking to one guy with a 58 Hawk and he paid over two > grand to have his rebuilt (at least that's what he told me, wheather > he's a BSer or not, I don;t know). On 29 Jun 2005 07:16:58 -0700, you wrote: >So should the trans-x work, or should I read up on some more of the >adjustments that were discussed? PERSONALLY, I would invest the time into checking adjustments.. plus, how dirty/what color is the fluid? --Shiva-- |
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