 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / August 2005while you're in there..
Today's project was to put new rubber bushings in the front end of the '55 along with some new shocks and a late style sway bar. I SWORE this time I wasn't going to do any over-the-top detailing on the front end, since this is going to be a "driver" car. Well I got the control arms off the driver's side and found that the lower knuckle thing was loose, apparently there's supposed to be a little tapered pin there, half of it went AWOL. Also the lower shaft was installed way off center. So I had to completely disassemble the lower control arm. Then I realized that the caster adjustment on the upper was cranked all the way to one end to compensate so I went to pull a grease fitting, couldn't do it (weirdest thing, the piece of the steel bushing that the grease fitting threaded into was spinning, and I thought the bushings were all one piece) next thing I know I have the whole driver's side broken down to individual pieces. So far I need one pin, one steel bushing and one upper shaft (one side was pretty worn, it looked like it had only a passing acquaintance with a grease gun) oh well if I'm this far I might as well order all new bushings and shafts and do it right. Now that I have it all apart and it's not going back together today I might as well drop the control arms in the derusting tank... and I'll clean and paint these inner shafts and the top of the kingpin while I'm at it... you see where this is going don't you? I'm going to have a perfect suspension, go way over budget, and try JP's patience yet again as my car sits in his driveway on jackstands for far longer than planned... nate (wishing he could pay someone to do all this stuff for him...)  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Watch OUT, JP will sell anything thats around for more then 48hrs. I feel you pain, I'm over budget, and way over schedule on the 60lark viii I'm doing at the moment. It supposed to be a driver also. Some day my wife is gonna quit asking how much and how long. I've already learned to pad it by 50%. Russ (learning to keep my mouth shut) Is that an upper inner shaft, or outer your in need off? I didn't think the inner shafts were available, anymore? Bo. > Today's project was to put new rubber bushings in the front end of the '55 > along with some new shocks and a late style sway bar. I SWORE this time I [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > (wishing he could pay someone to do all this stuff for him...) It's the outer I need. The threads on one side are about half worn off, like someone installed a new shaft a while back and then never greased it :/ I dunno about the inner shaft, I haven't had to look for those, although I had a close call on my '62 when I snapped off one of the bolts. nate > Is that an upper inner shaft, or outer your in need off? I didn't think the > inner shafts were available, anymore? [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > > http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Which bolt did you snap off? them's on the end or one of the one's going to the frame? I had the nuts loosen on one ends of the lower shaft to frame bolts and there was a big bang. Fortunately, I was just a 1/8 of a mile from home and nursed it back at about 5 mph. I never went back to the idiot place that did the front end alignment where they had put shims under the nuts instead of telling me of problems regarding alignment... JT (Who casts a wary eye on front end shops ever since..) > It's the outer I need. The threads on one side are about half worn > off, like someone installed a new shaft a while back and then never [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > > > http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel It was one of the ones on the end... snapped off while I was trying to disassemble the whole mess to replace the new bushings. However, I HAVE had the bolts you mention work loose; that reminds me, I should buy new ones. Also some hardened washers as well (I believe there was a service bulletin about using hardened washers under the self-locking nuts to prevent this problem.) I wonder if I shouldn't make a doubler plate for the upper shaft mount, since this is a stock '55 frame and didn't have one from the factory? Or maybe just use some large flat washers underneath, since it looks to still be in decent shape? nate > Which bolt did you snap off? them's on the end or one of the one's > going to the frame? [quoted text clipped - 56 lines] > > > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > > > > http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > It was one of the ones on the end... snapped off while I was trying to > disassemble the whole mess to replace the new bushings. I've had one or two of those loosen and fall out. Not much should happen as the bushing(s) will keep the A-arm ends from going much anywhere. If you have a sharp ear, you will hear the bolt hit the pavement though. > However, I HAVE had the bolts you mention work loose; that reminds me, > I should buy new ones. Also some hardened washers as well (I believe > there was a service bulletin about using hardened washers under the > self-locking nuts to prevent this problem.) These are special bolts with a shoulder where they go through the front cross member. I don't know if they are available NOS any longer. JT > I wonder if I shouldn't make a doubler plate for the upper shaft mount, > since this is a stock '55 frame and didn't have one from the factory? > Or maybe just use some large flat washers underneath, since it looks to > still be in decent shape? Yes, if you remove the upper A-arms completely, be sure to use a flat washer in addition to a lock washer to spread the load. That is where the frame can crack. Later frames had a doubler that solved that problem. IIRC, wasn't that a problem with your "56 GH where extensive welding had to be done? Fortunately, when I completely rebushed the front end on my '56 Power hawk a few years ago, (and the bushings were real bad), the frame was pristine and I made damned sure that substantial flat washers were installed even though I do not plan on abusing the car. Of course, this car has yet to see 100K in mileage. JT > nate > [quoted text clipped - 58 lines] > > > > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > > > > > http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > > It was one of the ones on the end... snapped off while I was trying to > > disassemble the whole mess to replace the new bushings. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > anywhere. If you have a sharp ear, you will hear the bolt hit the > pavement though. Had the oppoite problem... apparently some water had gotten into the area (it was the one near the lower rad. hose) and the bolt was rusted STUCK - needed a flame wrench to get it loose. I was very, very close to having to just replace the inner shaft; the bolt finally let go just as I was thinking it wasn't going to come out without some fancy drilling. I haven't seen one of those loosen yet but I won't say it can't happen - the front ends of these things seem to like regular inspection. > > However, I HAVE had the bolts you mention work loose; that reminds me, > > I should buy new ones. Also some hardened washers as well (I believe [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > These are special bolts with a shoulder where they go through the front > cross member. I don't know if they are available NOS any longer. I will have to take a close look at these then. I replaced them all with new on my '62 as they'd already worked loose a (at 14K miles !?!?!?!?!) and therefore I didn't trust them. This car they were all still tight when I disassembled it so maybe they're OK to reuse. > > I wonder if I shouldn't make a doubler plate for the upper shaft mount, > > since this is a stock '55 frame and didn't have one from the factory? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > problem. IIRC, wasn't that a problem with your "56 GH where extensive > welding had to be done? Yup, exactly, that's why I was thinking about doing some kind of pre-emptive action. I am guessing that my local bolt place will have some nice big grade 8 washers that I can use. I've only got the driver's side apart so far but I don't see any cracking (knock on wood) and believe me, after seeing the mess on my 56J, I'd like to prevent that on this car if at all possible. The good news is that the frame isn't even cracked in the spring pockets where "they all do that." I think I had a pattern for a doubler somewhere (that I created while repairing the 56J) but I was wondering if maybe hardened washers wouldn't actually be better as then I could put a little more torque on the bolts without worrying about embedding, etc. Did you use the washers above and below the frame or just below? BTW, you say "if you remove them completely" - how the heck do you replace the rear inner bushing if you don't? But anyway yes everything is off the car; if nothing else I needed to run the kingpin thrust bearings through the parts washer, as usual they were full of old hardened grease and wouldn't take any fresh grease even after gentle heating from the torch. > Fortunately, when I completely rebushed the front end on my '56 Power > hawk a few years ago, (and the bushings were real bad), the frame was > pristine and I made damned sure that substantial flat washers were > installed even though I do not plan on abusing the car. Of course, this > car has yet to see 100K in mileage. That's reassuring to know; however, I can't guarantee that I won't take a hard corner or two with this car :) (and I live beyond a railroad crossing from the main road... GRR...) nate > > > It was one of the ones on the end... snapped off while I was trying to > > > disassemble the whole mess to replace the new bushings. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > can't happen - the front ends of these things seem to like regular > inspection. Heh, the reason a couple of mine backed out is because I never really tightened 'em in the first place. Of course, rust is not really a factor here. I did have to scout a bit to get the correct cupped washer though. > > > However, I HAVE had the bolts you mention work loose; that reminds me, > > > I should buy new ones. Also some hardened washers as well (I believe [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > !?!?!?!?!) and therefore I didn't trust them. This car they were all > still tight when I disassembled it so maybe they're OK to reuse. If they are the correct bolts, I don't see a problem with reuse. Just make sure that you use lock nuts or a fresh lock washer. > > > I wonder if I shouldn't make a doubler plate for the upper shaft mount, > > > since this is a stock '55 frame and didn't have one from the factory? [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > the bolts without worrying about embedding, etc. Did you use the > washers above and below the frame or just below? I think that standard wide flat washers will be fine. I didn't go through any search for "super" hard washers. > BTW, you say "if you remove them completely" - how the heck do you > replace the rear inner bushing if you don't? But anyway yes everything > is off the car; if nothing else I needed to run the kingpin thrust > bearings through the parts washer, as usual they were full of old > hardened grease and wouldn't take any fresh grease even after gentle > heating from the torch. Your discussion began with the outer pins so youse knows 'bout ass-uming anything... > > Fortunately, when I completely rebushed the front end on my '56 Power > > hawk a few years ago, (and the bushings were real bad), the frame was [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > a hard corner or two with this car :) (and I live beyond a railroad > crossing from the main road... GRR...) I don't think that routine RR crossings will be much of a factor but should you go to see the new "Dukes" movie and try to impress your "Daisy" too often, thar' might be a price to pay someday... JT > > > > It was one of the ones on the end... snapped off while I was trying to > > > > disassemble the whole mess to replace the new bushings. [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] > If they are the correct bolts, I don't see a problem with reuse. Just > make sure that you use lock nuts or a fresh lock washer. They don't have a shoulder on them; actually they are threaded all the way to the head. So I will get some new ones just so that I can get more consistent torque on them. > > > > I wonder if I shouldn't make a doubler plate for the upper shaft mount, > > > > since this is a stock '55 frame and didn't have one from the factory? [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > I think that standard wide flat washers will be fine. I didn't go > through any search for "super" hard washers. No need to search, when I go in there, they ask me if I want Grade 8 or stainless. I love that store :) > > BTW, you say "if you remove them completely" - how the heck do you > > replace the rear inner bushing if you don't? But anyway yes everything [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Your discussion began with the outer pins so youse knows 'bout ass-uming anything... Well, this PROJECT started with me wanting to replace the front shocks due to destroyed bushings. I figured I'd do the shocks and the inner bushings at the same time, because they were looking a little worn. Then I pulled the control arms to do the bushings... and it was all downhill from there :/ > > > Fortunately, when I completely rebushed the front end on my '56 Power > > > hawk a few years ago, (and the bushings were real bad), the frame was [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > JT Easy to do inadvertantly if you're snoozing... this "grade" crossing is actually about 5 feet above street level and has fairly steep "ramps..." I will try to keep that to a minimum however! As an aside, does anyone know how to tell HD springs from regular? I suspect my car has HD front springs as it sits nice and high in the front, doesn't appear to be sagging at all. The springs have seven or eight coils depending on how you look at them, if that helps any. They really aren't all that tall out of the car which makes me also suspect they may be HD. nate <SNIP> As an aside, does anyone know how to tell HD springs from regular? .............................................. The part number may be stamped on one end. What is the free-length of your springs? > <SNIP> > As an aside, does anyone know how to tell HD springs from regular? > .............................................. > The part number may be stamped on one end. What is the free-length of your > springs? What are my options? I know that they'll fit under the frame rails standing up, while the front of the car is supported by jackstands :) More specific than that, will have to wait for the weekend. I'm hoping that all the parts I need will be here by then so I can finally get this thing aligned! nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > > > > > It was one of the ones on the end... snapped off while I was trying to > > > > > disassemble the whole mess to replace the new bushings. [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > way to the head. So I will get some new ones just so that I can get > more consistent torque on them. I'm pretty sure that the original bolts had a shoulder. You might want to check this out. > > > > > I wonder if I shouldn't make a doubler plate for the upper shaft mount, > > > > > since this is a stock '55 frame and didn't have one from the factory? [quoted text clipped - 67 lines] > really aren't all that tall out of the car which makes me also suspect > they may be HD. Since your car has been munged, it's hard to tell what you have. Personally, I would opt for Avanti (original) HD springs to keep it low but firm. You can always toss an A/C spacer (or two) if it sits too low. JT > Today's project was to put new rubber bushings in the front end of the > '55 along with some new shocks and a late style sway bar. I SWORE this [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > nate Fear not... I'm sure that he considers you the "son" that is no longer there... JT > Today's project was to put new rubber bushings in the front end of the > '55 along with some new shocks and a late style sway bar. I SWORE this [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > (wishing he could pay someone to do all this stuff for him...) Update: the pass. side lower outer pin was also loose, the little "knuckle" was floating free on the trunion pin, loosely enough that I'm thinking it may be a good idea to replace it. The bushings were seized solid to the pin, that might explain why I couldn't grease them :( Anyone have a passenger side lower knuckle for a '55 that they wouldn't mind donating to the cause? I have a feeling that a NOS piece is going to be one of those silly expensive deals. Amazingly enough the pass. side upper still has the rubber seals in place and appears to be properly installed. thanks, nate Ray, didn't I give you a bunch of 55 front suspension stuff that I got from a rodder or was it someone else? >> Today's project was to put new rubber bushings in the front end of the >> '55 along with some new shocks and a late style sway bar. I SWORE this [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > >nate Ron/Champ 6 1963 8E5 Champ (Champ 6) 1962 Lark Daytona Convertible On eBay now...(Boomerang) 1995 VW Passat (Vanilla..yuk) 1994 Volvo 850 (Tilley) 1973 Volvo 1800 ES (Hyacinth Bucket) I think Lee is going to try to find me one; according to parts book they are all the same up until 1959, does this sound right? nate > Ray, didn't I give you a bunch of 55 front suspension stuff that I got > from a rodder or was it someone else? [quoted text clipped - 51 lines] > 1994 Volvo 850 (Tilley) > 1973 Volvo 1800 ES (Hyacinth Bucket) Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2008 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.