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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / August 2005Old Dull Paint....How to buff / polish
I'm working on my old 54 sedan, and I need advise on what I should do....the original paint is all there but very dull...I have never done much buffing or polishing so perhaps someone here (maybe buffer king JP) could give me a run down on tips and also if there is a perfered wax or polish to use to restore dull looking paint for temporary purposes. Thanks Kent > I'm working on my old 54 sedan, and I need advise on what I should > do....the original paint is all there but very dull...I have never done [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks > Kent Purists will probably howl in protest, but if it's REALLY bad, a wash with some Barkeeper's Friend or Bon Ami will take off the real heavy oxidation quicker than buffing and cut your buffing time way down. Now this isn't particularly good for the paint but if it's a one time thing... nate Try a good polishing compound first, than go to a more abrasive rubbing compound if needed. Watch out for the edges or anywhere the compound could build up and burn through the paint. Clean or change the pad if it gets gummed up. (just spin the pad against a screwdriver or a pad cleaning tool) > I'm working on my old 54 sedan, and I need advise on what I should > do....the original paint is all there but very dull...I have never done [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks > Kent  SignatureJP/Maryland Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/ 64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper) 64 Challenger (Plain Wrapper ?) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk 63 GT Hawk (on ebay) 61 Hawk 60? Hawk 54 Starlight(sold) 53 Starlight Kent, If you go after it with a buffer- you'll remove most of your "color" and what's left will fade 10 times faster. Even waxing will only buy you a week or 2 in the sun if kept outdoors. Here's what I would do... -Clean everything with hot soapy detergent and water -Get some GREY scotchbrite pads...and scrub the PAINT on the whole car -Mask it off- and spray some cheap Acrylic Enamel Clearcoat on it... (buy online) Ray > I'm working on my old 54 sedan, and I need advise on what I should > do....the original paint is all there but very dull...I have never done [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks > Kent Nothing against Studeman there, but I definately would NOT clear coat one. Our 52 was painted with clearcoat, just a few years ago, and now it is TERRIBLE! I hate that stuff. My Daytona will be painted with the old acrylic type paint, that will buff and shine forever. We have several Studes that are just like yours, and we did what JP recommended. We have a 51 Starlight, that was faded as faded can be. We did that, and now it is like brand new! Like I said, no offence Studeman, but that's just how I would go about it. > Kent, > If you go after it with a buffer- you'll remove most of your "color" and [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Thanks > > Kent I too was a bit confused by that post since fading back has never bneen a problen unless the paint was totally "dead". > Nothing against Studeman there, but I definately would NOT clear coat > one. Our 52 was painted with clearcoat, just a few years ago, and now [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >>>Thanks >>>Kent SignatureJP/Maryland Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/ 64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper) 64 Challenger (Plain Wrapper ?) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk 63 GT Hawk (on ebay) 61 Hawk 60? Hawk 54 Starlight(sold) 53 Starlight Same here. Just look at the original paint on Stude George's 38 Commander. Parts of it are dull, but other parts look great! http://community.webshots.com/photo/398232923/428459298UNkLZo Just look at how shiny the top is. > I too was a bit confused by that post since fading back has never > bneen a problen unless the paint was totally "dead". [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > 54 Starlight(sold) > 53 Starlight > Same here. Just look at the original paint on Stude George's 38 > Commander. Parts of it are dull, but other parts look great! >>I too was a bit confused by that post since fading back has never >>bneen a problen unless the paint was totally "dead". Look guys... I'm not taking offense... but there are MANY factors involved in paint fading and peeling clears, etc.. I could point to 100 "original paint" cars that look good... not a damn one of them was kept outside, or driven with any regularity. It's been my experience (here in NC where the sun get's blazing hot in the summer).. that older factory enamels and laquers that have survived this long- don't fare well in the sun. AND that if you remove alot of color by buffing, the paint's longevity severly suffers. ESPECIALLY for cars that are not housed indoors. Factory clear on just about any 80's- early 90's cars of ANY manufacture is junk... That does NOT mean that ALL clearcoat is junk. Improperly prepared surfaces will cause peeling and blistering. Choosing the wrong thinner, spray tecnique, etc... are also factors that create havoc with clearcoats... but they ARE NOT reasons to abandon clearcoats as an option. My statement was just how to save the color he has left on his car.. and make it look presentable (for a few years).. without busting the bank, or making a weekend waxing regimin a requirement. I never said it would look like a brand new paintjob, or that it would last until his grandkids were pushing up daisys.... But it WILL protect the color he has left, reduce oxidation, damage from acid rain, and increase longevity- until he decides to do a "real" refinishing. It's also something he can do himself with little investment in equipment or materials. Geeze... a good buffer capable of doing a descent buff-job on a car without burning to a cinder- is $250+. Using an inadequate buffer (or the wrong type) will work you to death, the results will be marginal at best.. and the finish simply won't last without CONSTANT mainatainence. Ray Well, I live in South Georgia, and Studebaker Geaorge, who owns the original 38 Commander, lives in hot sunny Florida. To me, clearing is just not the way to go. It may work for some, but does it last? Sooner or later it will blister and look terrible. Our 52 sedan was professionally painted, and now the clear is pretty much gone and the whole car needs a repaint. Like I said several times before, nothing against you ar anything like that at all, but this is my experience with both ways, and I say buff and wax it. Matthew Burnette > > Same here. Just look at the original paint on Stude George's 38 > > Commander. Parts of it are dull, but other parts look great! [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > > Ray If you're that concerned, why not just strip and repaint the whole car and be done with it. You can dick around with the paint job and nickle and dime yourself to death for the next 10 years or bite the bullet and fix it right the first time. I don't quite understand people wanting a quick and cheap fix and then argue with advice given by people who know what they're talking about and do this sort of thing for a living. I live in SC and the paint job Ray shot on my car in 2001 looks as good as it did back then. If your paint job is flaking off a couple years after being repainted, you need to talk to your "professional" painter because something isn't right. I'd rather clearcoat than not and spend every other weekend waxing the car to get it to look the same. I still wax about once a year... actually I use Zaino Brother's, and I don't know if they consider their product a "wax". All I know is it looks 3" deep when I'm done. Lee > Well, I live in South Georgia, and Studebaker Geaorge, who owns the > original 38 Commander, lives in hot sunny Florida. To me, clearing is [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > and wax it. > Matthew Burnette C'mon Matthew... Don't let your enthusiasm of youth overrun your keyboard acumen... (look it up) George's '38 hasn't been out in the sun for years, and it is not a pristine paint job, by any stretch of the imagination (Just ask George).... Any paint job, be it Stude, or Yugo, or Porsche...will not last forever unless it is parked inside....forever. These are vehicles designed to be sold for X dollars and get through the warranty period....period. Paint, while a perdy thing, is just a protective covering for the base metal to make it last longer. Studebaker did a pretty crappy job of metal preservation throughout the years, but it was budgets and technology limitations that were the limiting factors. Ray's suggestions were spot on for patching something cosmetically without putting ten grand into a paint job...and that is not even a top shelf paint job nowadays. Buff your a.s off, but it will only work if there is pigment left to buff. Stude didn't waste any pigment, that's a sure bet..... Jeff "Matthew Burnette" wrote.. > Well, I live in South Georgia, and Studebaker Geaorge, who owns the > original 38 Commander, lives in hot sunny Florida. To me, clearing is [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] >> >> Ray Our 1947 Coupe could and would not take a shine, no matter what we did, probably a clearcoat would have helped but. Now on our Hawk, it has maintained its shine now since it was painted. My feeling is all I do is wash it the hight before a show. Every brand X car we have owned that I touched with a polish ent dull after 5 years. If, and I say IF the paint was sprayed and color snaded, and buffed out, it will hold its original shine for years. Maybe my car is different, but polishing a car is not going to help. Now if you have BC/CC 1200 wet and with a lot of water, and a buffer that turns at less than 1500rpm can help. Bill |
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