Pekka,
Thanks for the kind words. The car has been frustrating to say the
least. I will be pulling apart the fuel pump tomorrow. The car seems to
have intermittant fuel delivery. Everything has been been replaced or
rebuilt, the tank ,all of the metal and rubber lines,the filter has
been changed more than once. i've just put a little over 2,000 miles on
it.
The problem must be something stupid that I probably caused myself.
I thought the problem was in the ignition . I even disconnected the
MSD-6A box at the track and had to reroute the tach pickup wire. It
seemed to start a little better. It must of been my imagination.
It pulled well in the first 2 gears and then flattened out and
stopped pulling. On the ride home it would surge from time to time and
it was sometimes difficult to stay in the fast lane on the highway. I
am begining to think that there may be a problem with the check valves
in the fuel pump or that the line from the tank may be getting sucked
shut , like a lower radiator hose installed without the spring in it.
I've used needle nose vise grips on the hose when changing the pump
out. They may have weakened the hose a bit. I know this is a stretch,
but is is cheap and easy to change so why not ?
Although it was a hot day at the track, 85 plus degrees. I do not
believe it was vapor locking. The lines are clear of any heat sources.
I want to make up some kind of an idler pulley for the blower. I
know it wouldn't be stock and correct, but it would give the belt more
pulley surface to "wrap" and give more grip without adding tension and
side thrust pressure to the bearings in the blower.
The way the factory tensioner is designed is bass ackwards. It
pulls the belt away from the pulley's surface so that there is less
contact surface area available. Look at any of the newer cars out there
running a supercharger and tell me what you see. There is about 200
plus degrees of the pulley to belt contact area.
I am running a Delco window cap distributor with the limiter
bushing, the timing is set to the factory specs. I have a new vacuum
advance unit on order. The vacuum advance is not functional at the
moment. I realize fixing that is not going to help 1/4 mile
performance. Fixing it will however make the ride to the dragstrip a
bit less expensive ,since I drive the car to the dragstrip. This
should give me around 40 degrees total on the highway as opposed to the
stock 24 degrees at 1600rpm and above . This will help my fuel mileage.
According to the shop manual 24 degrees is all you should have under a
load.
Another thing that was weird,when I was almost home the brakes
felt a little different. I pulled the master cylinder cover and there
was no fluid in the compartment for the rear brakes. I am glad I took
the time to install a dual master cylinder. There is a leak to be fixed
somewhere.I don't care. I'll be changing the rear to the 3.73's soon
with the Moser axles thanks to Ted,Phil,and Malcolm. I have rear wheel
cylinder kits and fresh shoes. I believe the axles are a bargain at
$500. Check out a Summit catalog and check out some axles for more
common rears. They will run anywhere from $250 to $400 or so dollars,
BUT they don't come with the bearings,or wheel studs,or the centering
piece to use your stude drums. When you add it all up and factor in the
added safety and reliabilty,plus the new ease of removing your rear
drums, they are totally worth it.
I am considering buying another set for the 3.07 rear that is in
the car now.That will have to wait for some other time. I am not made
of money either. I just like having the 3.07's for driving to Car shows
that aren't local. Maybe in the future I'll sell off one of the rear
ends and the 4 speed and get me a Tremec 5 speed. Then I'll have a low
1st gear and an overdrive. Yeah that's the ticket... I'll be off until
the 21st. I'll be doing some house and car projects. I'll let the group
know what I did wrong. I have to get this thing fixed soon, the dog is
getting very jealous of all of the time I have been spending on the
car. Dale is 95lbs of a Gordon setter Lab mix. He stole a tube of
weatherstrip adhesive from the car when I wasn't looking. Thank God it
was still in the box. I would be scrapping weatherstrip adhesive out
his mouth. I am so glad he didn't puncture that tube. Thank God for
small favors,that's all for now, Joe
ConcreteGuy - 15 Sep 2005 05:00 GMT
>Pekka,
> Thanks for the kind words. The car has been frustrating to say the
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>MSD-6A box at the track and had to reroute the tach pickup wire. It
>Snipped some....
Joe...I'm not great under the hood sorry...But have some friends who
are... I have ran down a drag track some in my time...You never said
how good was your clutch and pressure plate...Just wondering if it is
causing any problems in high gear that hurt the motor running ??...
Lansing
Bigbob62 - 15 Sep 2005 11:04 GMT
Have you checked to make sure your gas cap is vented? If not, that may
be what's causing your fuel delivery problem...it's almost the same as
the fuel line collapsing and shutting off the flow, whether it's on the
street or the strip.
Just a thought...and a problem that's bitten many a Stude guy!
jflan63@aol.com - 15 Sep 2005 23:00 GMT
Thanks for the advice guys. My brother did mention to check the cap
. I have the original crappy looking one. It will not cost me anything
to try. Like I said before the problem is probably something that I
caused myself.
I don't even remember where I got the cap from that is on it now.
I'll try the old one tomorrow. It would be so great if that is all it
is.I did however make 2 passes at the track with the cap that is on it
now. That was last year at the same event.
The other thing about the clutch, that is all new . I am running
a centerforce dual friction clutch. It has kevlar on 1 side and some
other type of friction material on the other side. It locks up really
well. It is also quite light on the leg as well as smooth. I am happy
with that as you can tell. They cost a bit more but I think they're
worth it. I asked for a clutch to fit a 1970 AMC AMX. It was direct
fit, except you have to grind the inside of the bell housing to clear
the pressure plate. I'll let you know if the cap makes a difference.
Thanks again, Joe