One thing to remind everyone of... grease those hinges. I went out the
other night and checked mine and they were dry and there was slight binding
when I tried to close the trunk lid. Oiled them up and ran the lid up and
down a couple times and it now closes smoothly with no hint of binding. I
just need to remind myself to do this every few months instead of once a
year... or use something thicker than WD-40/Kroil.
Lee
> I've currently got what I think are GT hawk hinges on my '53. They had
> turquiose metallic paint when I bought them so I assume.... Seems to
> me they were ~$15 each. Made sure they had tight rivets before buying.
> The trunk shuts perfectly.
>
> Jeff
I think the factory recommendation for hinges, latches, etc. is 20W
motor oil. Speaking of which, I wonder where I can find a good
old-style oil can outside of an antique store... been meaning to lube my
distributor for a while now...
nate
> One thing to remind everyone of... grease those hinges. I went out the
> other night and checked mine and they were dry and there was slight binding
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
>>
>>Jeff

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Lee Aanderud - 28 Dec 2005 01:11 GMT
Ace Hardware carries the thumb pump style and the "cathunk, cathunk" type.
I picked up one last week just because I hadn't seen one outside of an
antique store. I'd say you can probably get one at any local real hardware
store.
Lee
>I think the factory recommendation for hinges, latches, etc. is 20W motor
>oil. Speaking of which, I wonder where I can find a good old-style oil can
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
>>>
>>>Jeff
studegary - 28 Dec 2005 22:24 GMT
Nate (and others) - The inner trunk panel is NOT the same for all years
of C/K models. It follows the same contour, which is what you may be
implying, but it is not the same stamping. For example, early inner
panels have large rectangular openings and later panels have rounded
openings. I always thought that they should have changed the inner
panel for '56 to give them an advertising benefit of increased trunk
space.