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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / March 2006replacing pistons
want to know the procedure in (complete) on installing new pistons to the origional connecting rods,step by step.this is for a V8. >want to know the procedure in (complete) on installing new pistons to >the origional connecting rods,step by step.this is for a V8. Not that I'm a smartass, but this is why they have shop manuals. Engine shops often get tripped up on this procedure, if they aren't familiar with Studebakers. There is a right way and a wrong way of dealing with the wrist pin pinch bolt, and the rods must be installed facing the right way. I've overhauled a few V8s now, and I always refer to the shop manual. This can be crucial stuff, and it's not wise to trust one's memory. You can get a shop manual from many of the Stude vendors. There is a list of vendors on the SDC website, and the major vendors nearly always have display ads in the back of Turning Wheels. SASCO and Studebaker International are but two of the largest. Manuals can also be found on eBay. Maybe someone who has a manual at hand will post the procedure, but if you're going to overhaul an engine, you really, really should have a manual. Gord Richmond Does the shop manual mention the trick of rapping the end of that pinch bolt with a drift and hammer, and then retighten the nut? > >want to know the procedure in (complete) on installing new pistons to >>the origional connecting rods,step by step.this is for a V8. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > > Gord Richmond No Alex. The shop manual doesn't. When rebuilding the "R" engine I did a couple of years ago, I wanted the machinist to know all he could, since he never rebuilt a Stude before. I had him call Ted Harbit and Ted gave him several tips. One was tapping the pinch bolt while tightening to 25 ft lbs (if memory serves). Well he got a extra 5 or 6 "tightens" before he reached the required torque. This was something we would have never known. He wouldn't have reused the pal nuts on the rod bolts. But Ted told him they are required (this is covered in the manual). Dick Dotson's book covers several oiling mods that are great at helping oil return to the pan. This helps keep oil pressure consistant and are easy to do. Even the chief engineer (I believe Sparrow) wrote a SAE paper outlining some problems with the oil system. They didn't present themselves on everyday engines, but are a problem with warmed over engines like a lot of guys are building. Stude shop manual are excellent in comparison with many others, but practical mechanics with tons of experience like Ted and D.D. have a lot of good advice. Buy Dick Dotson's severe engine book. lots of great stuff for little $$$$ Just my 2 cents Kelly Do what I did on the R4 and just go to full floating piston pins and you don't have to worry about the pinch pin :) Thanks Alex,that is exactly what I wanted to here about the pinch bolt,it was fuzzy but I remember my father being told that and passing on to me.just needed to re-train the brain again,i know that was'nt done when the shop re-built the engine,it's still on the engine stand and will be addressed as needed. Joe. |
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