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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / March 2006T-96 sad story
I pulled the T-96 to redo the seals and gaskets and the problems have not stopped. The car and trans have only done 30K miles and I thought I would freshen it up. When I drained the oil prior to removal it was a disconcerting copper color. After removing the top cover the first apparent problem was the front syncro being worn thin. That would explain the clash between second and third on the up shift if I was to fast. After removing the rear housing I found a retaining c-clip in three pieces. This had caused the main output shaft to move 1/4" rearward and put a side load on the roller bearings between the input and output shaft. After disassembly I found the roller bearings had a flattened area. The output shaft bearing surface was distorted. The input bearing surface was no better. After renewing the retaining clips,syncro, the roller bearings and having the output shaft cleaned up in a lathe with emery cloth at a local drive shaft shop, I reinstalled every thing to see if this would suffice to get the car around. The first thing after starting the car was the bearing noise. After a few miles I pulled the trans again and inspected the bearings. They have flattened again. No such thing as a free lunch. What I wanted to do was have the shaft turned and a new bearing surface pressed on. Have the input bearing surface turned out a another bearing surface pressed in. This was worth more than new parts. Does any one have an input and output shaft for a T-96 W/O overdrive in good condition or a complete T-96 (bad first/reverse gear or cluster gear might not be a problem) around the LA area? This is only because shipping is cost prohibitive. I can get an NOS output shaft to the door for $45 but I don't believe the trans is worth the expense of new parts. Trans is for a 59 Lark sedan. I don't want to change the trans at this time to something else. I have other plans and other transmissions so the T-96 has to go back in for the moment. Wiz. I believe I have the NOS input shaft. Part # 521471 What gear oil did you use? The car came with gear oil in the transmission and I did not change it until I was prepared to work on it. I have only put less than 2K miles since owning the car for the past three years. But to answer your question I used 40 weight engine oil which is the same as 80 weight gear oil. I don not take lubrication lightly and will do my best to get the right stuff for what ever the application. It is so hard to find straight 80 that I researched my options and found that straight 40 engine oil has the same viscosity as straight 80 gear oil. You can swap engine oil for gear oil but can't swap gear oil for engine oil. Wiz. > What gear oil did you use? > > *** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com *** > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from > http://www.SecureIX.com *** > The car came with gear oil in the transmission and I did not change it > until I was prepared to work on it. I have only put less than 2K miles [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > viscosity as straight 80 gear oil. You can swap engine oil for gear oil > but can't swap gear oil for engine oil. 80 mineral oil is generally available at tractor/farm supply stores. Paul Johnson I live in Los Angeles county, about 25 miles east of LA, and have been in the country, from Australia, six years and don't know where every thing is yet and I believe it will take many more years to be able to say the same thing. I would like to know where there is a store around here that has supplies for farm, tractor and truck oil but think it would be a few miles from where I live. Wiz. >> The car came with gear oil in the transmission and I did not change it >> until I was prepared to work on it. I have only put less than 2K miles [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > 80 mineral oil is generally available at tractor/farm supply stores. > Paul Johnson > > The car came with gear oil in the transmission and I did not change it > > until I was prepared to work on it. I have only put less than 2K miles [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > 80 mineral oil is generally available at tractor/farm supply stores. > Paul Johnson Even better would be the Aeroshell (or equivalent in Mobil) non-dispersant in 80 grade (SAE 40), if you can still get that at either your local Shell jobber or airport. I do not use much of it so I still have a few cans left and have not tried to buy it in a a long time. It was long considered the best oil for engine break-in. May still be for all I know.  Signaturewf. I just wondered because modern gear oils have chemicals to enhance gear life that will eat the bronze parts in an older trans. Maybe this was done before your time? Jeff "Wizard of Oz" wrote... > The car came with gear oil in the transmission and I did not change it > until I was prepared to work on it. I have only put less than 2K miles [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >> *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from >> http://www.SecureIX.com *** Thanks Jeff, The oil didn't do the damage it was purely physical not chemical. Only one part made from bronze was damaged. The other syncro ring was like new. Having done only 30K the gears and other bronze internals of the trans were excellent. Given that the oil has been in contact with the internals for the past 47 years if any degradation was to take place from the previous, and only other, owners application of an inferior product it would show on more than one part. I have read about some events in which damage you mentioned, the type of bronze effecting oils, and it's good to see that others are aware of this situation. Thanks, Wiz. >I just wondered because modern gear oils have chemicals to enhance gear >life that will eat the bronze parts in an older trans. Maybe this was done [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > *** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from > http://www.SecureIX.com *** FWIW I've been told that Redline MTL and MT-90 are straight GL-4 rated, and do not have the EP additives that eat yellow metals. That said I have no idea if they would work well in an OD trans as I understand the OD might not work correctly if the oil is too much more or less slippery than what it was originally designed for. Not having an OD trans to try the stuff in, I can't give you a thumbs up or down... MT-90 makes my old T-10 (and every old VW I've tried it in) shift like a knife through warm butter though. nate > Thanks Jeff, > [quoted text clipped - 42 lines] >>*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from >>http://www.SecureIX.com *** Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Yes, I was trying to find some around here but the distributors are few and far between. I was looking into using one of their products for the Ross TL 12 steering box a while back it was supposed to have properties of a 250 weight. Kendall 200 or Meropa No. 6 or Kendall 400 is not going to be found so I went for a straight 140 weight of the shelf, being in the lightest Lark I thought I would give it a try. So far no leaks and steering is good. I would like to get this trans sorted so I can go for a long drive. I replaced the fuel tank sender with a new one a few months ago so I'm felling bold enough to travel a few hours away from the house but have had no luck with the trans. Wiz. > FWIW I've been told that Redline MTL and MT-90 are straight GL-4 rated, > and do not have the EP additives that eat yellow metals. That said I have [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] >>>*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from >>>http://www.SecureIX.com *** TRANSACTION (obsolete xmission parts) 10875 Tuxford Sun Valley California 91352 800 223 2723 Waiting on a call back to see if they have the parts. Thanks, Wiz. > TRANSACTION (obsolete xmission parts) > 10875 Tuxford > Sun Valley California 91352 > 800 223 2723 |
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