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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / April 2006Weak spark, part 2
Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the control module, replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the coil. I have 7 volts on the positive side of the coil and 1.25 on the negative side. Is this about right? Chip  Signature-------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB > Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the control module, > replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the coil. I have 7 volts on the > positive side of the coil and 1.25 on the negative side. Is this about right? > > Chip Is your battery fully charged? I would expect to see at least 8-9V even while cranking. Are you using the four terminal ballast? Those have two different resistances; one for the coil and one to drop the voltage to the control box, and one of them is a higher resistance than the other. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel > > Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the > > control module, replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > nate I have 12.5 volts from the battery. The ballast has two terminals. The 7 volts on the + side of the coil is not while cranking. Chip Signature-------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB I had a similar problem with my 54 coupe. It is a 12V conversion. It wouldn't start and I didn't have 12V to the ballast resistor so I started at the ignition switch. When I tested it I had 12V at the switch and 6V at the ballast resistor. I replaced the pink resistance wire from the ignition switch to the ballast resistor. That gave me the 12V I needed to start the car. It started immediately. Hope this helps. Richard > > > Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the > > > control module, replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > -------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- > Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB It should run OK on the 7 volts but try bypassing the ballast resistor and see if it helps. >> > Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the >> > control module, replaced the ballast resistor. Still no spark from the [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > The 7 volts on the + side of the coil is not while cranking. > Chip SignatureNewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth I'll give that a try. Chip > It should run OK on the 7 volts but try bypassing the ballast resistor > and see if it helps. [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > -------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- > > Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB Signature-------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB If your system has a fusable link in it try bypassing it. It may have been made in China. Can you hold a plug lead while cranking (while grounded) and not get a jolt? > Well, it still won't start. I have replaced the coil, checked the > control module, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Chip No fusable link. I barely get a spark from the coil, none from the plugs. Chip > If your system has a fusable link in it try bypassing it. It may have > been made in China. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > -------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- > > Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB Signature-------------------- http://NewsReader.Com/ -------------------- Usenet Newsgroup Service $9.95/Month 30GB I wouldn't use the dual ballest I would use the single. The dual was used for the lean burn cars. Send me a e-mail and I will send you the diagram for the single ballest system. > I wouldn't use the dual ballest I would use the single. The dual was > used for the lean burn cars. Send me a e-mail and I will send you the > diagram for the single ballest system. Actually the dual ballast was used on the early iterations of the control box; that wire is not used at all in the current production boxes. Apparently that ballast is built into the new boxes. I wired mine up for the dual ballast just in case I got stuck somewhere and had to use an old box. (it only took a minute or so to do the extra connection; that wire is still present in the new harnesses you get from MoPar) nate |
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