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Remove all the x's to email.
The only label that fits:
http://www.capitolhillblue.com/artman/publish/article_6966.shtml
"Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving
safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in
broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
-- WOW--What a Ride!!!" ----- Unknown
1953 Starlight Coupe
1954 Starlight Coupe R1/4-speed
1958 Silver Hawk
1960 Frua Italia Larks (2 - they're here!)
1962 Lark VI
1962 Lark Convertible
1963 Avanti R2 R4324
1963 Lark Cruiser (R2 3/4 clone in progress)
1963 GT Hawk
1963 Daytona Wagonaire
1964 Cruiser (Survivor)
1954 3R11
1956 2E7
2004 Porsche Carrera 4S
2000 Ducati 748
2002 Jeep Overland
http://homepage.mac.com/pdrnec/PhotoAlbum81.html
I'm surprised that nobody has responded to this post; due to my moving
I haven't gotten my latest Turning Wheels yet so I obviously haven't
read the article. I geuss that many of the "usual suspects" are
heading for South Bend, also. I had a 6 cylinder valve body laying
around so I stuck it in about eight months ago to get the first gear
start and also changed the governor a little later. I haven't grenaded
the tranny yet, but IMHO the first gear start isn't all it's cracked up
to be and is a bit annoying due to the band application that occurs on
the downshift. The upshift is fine. When and if the tranny blows up I
have a 200 R4 to replace it with, but if I had it to do over again I
wouldn't bother with the valve body changeout. If I ever wanted to do
the first gear start with a FOM again, I would do it the "right" way
and install the sprag and stuff to get rid of the pesky band apply
downshift. I don't know if the 6 cylinder (up to 60) tranny has the
guts in it already; nobody has ever asked or answered that question and
someday I may take it apart to see for myself. One more note; my
tranny "guru" said to loosen the band a little to help lessen the
"klunk" when it downshifts into first. I haven't tried that yet.
Studebaker George
Wagonmaster - 06 May 2006 01:33 GMT
I'm a hot rod kind of guy, and when i want to run my 64-259 Auto thru
the gears to see what she'll do, I take off in L and run it up till its
time to shift into second, shift to drive and let it go into second,
then immediately shift back to low so it will stay in second as long as
i want and shift back to drive when it's wound out in second and it will
go into third.
So a first gear start valve body isn't that important to me. especially
since Sasco wants $350 for one.
Bob Whiten
Wagonmaster
http://community.webtv.net/zzbob/StudebakersandMore
jeep4cyl@aol.com - 06 May 2006 14:20 GMT
I shifted my 57 Silver Hawk that way for years. I got that info from
Andy Granitelli, durring one of his famous road tests.
I also jacked my timing ahead and ran Sunoco 260 gas in it. Went like
H--L until I bunred a few valves. I had the valves fixed, gooped the
heck out of the head gasket and bolted it back to gether.
I had my first race in that car. I ran a 64 V8 Falcon down the local
Highshool Driveway, and back. Hit the highway dropped her into low and
left sideways. Beat the Falcon and left before the cops showed.
Oh the good old days.
Geno
64 R2 Avanti
64 Daytona Convertible