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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / May 2006flywheel hardware
should there be washers under the nuts that hold the flywheel onto the rear of the crank? I am thinking yes but wanted to ask to make sure. I bolted the flywheel to my engine today and I could only get the nuts on. Bolts are not original, they are grade 8 ground to work as original though. thanks nate PS - LOVE the aluminum flywheel. sounds awesome even on the stand through a single exhaust, I can't wait to get this all together and in the car. > should there be washers under the nuts that hold the flywheel onto the > rear of the crank? I am thinking yes but wanted to ask to make sure. > I bolted the flywheel to my engine today and I could only get the nuts > on. Bolts are not original, they are grade 8 ground to work as > original though. Are you changing from automatic to manual? The bolts for an automatic are shorter than the ones for a manual (flywheel). Paul Johnson I made the bolts from standard grade 8 bolts when I built the engine. >>should there be washers under the nuts that hold the flywheel onto the >>rear of the crank? I am thinking yes but wanted to ask to make sure. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > shorter than the ones for a manual (flywheel). > Paul Johnson  SignatureJP/Maryland Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/ 64 Daytona HT 64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (White) 63 Avanti R1 62 Daytona HT 62 Lark 2 door 60 Hawk 53 Starlight Nate, If this is an aluminum flywheel, washers should definitely be used. If it was me, I would use hardened and ground washers, but them I am quite anal about these type of things things <G>. You want to have at least two threads showing (ie, nut fully on bolt plus two theads sticking out). What provision is there to provide locking for the nuts? Are they self-locking? If not, you may want to consider using blue loctite on the nuts. Paul (my opinion only....) Warta > Nate, > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Paul (my opinion only....) Warta I was afraid you were going to say that... :/ I can get grade 8 hardware and self locking nuts no problems, it's the replacing the bolts that's going to cause me heartburn... nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel The other cool option is to drill and tap the crank flange for 7/16 bolts. You could cut off the old bolts and not have to pull the pan. I hate to see you drop the pan since it appears to be bone dry. Another trick I once used was to recess the bolts 1/8-1/4 into the flywheel. Of course, if it was me, I'd just use thin flat washers under the nuts. <g> >> Nate, >> [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > nate SignatureJP/Maryland Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/ 64 Daytona HT 64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (White) 63 Avanti R1 62 Daytona HT 62 Lark 2 door 60 Hawk 53 Starlight I'm hesitant to do that because the flywheel is SFI rated; I'm sure any mods like that would invalidate that rating... anyone know how critical the length of the bolt is? I am guessing since the measurement is given in the parts books in 64ths that extra length would cause issues? should I just mock it up with a clutch disc and some clay and make sure that the disc isn't going to hit the bolts? The good news is that I am pretty sure I still have a pan gasket, if you can do it and make it not leak I would hope that I could do the same :) nate > The other cool option is to drill and tap the crank flange for 7/16 > bolts. You could cut off the old bolts and not have to pull the pan. I [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > 60 Hawk > 53 Starlight WWTHD?? (What Would Ted Harbit Do)? I hate to tell you this, but I've seen guys use the shorter bolts without a problem and they only went half way through the nut. It's a good way to get a leg full of flywheel IMHO but it shows most of the stress is side to side. You'd only gain maybe .020-.030 in thread length by using longer bolts before you risk hitting the disk which will add squat to the strength. Having said that, I know you'll trade that .020 for a possible oil leak. <g> BTW, make sure I didn't use con rod nuts on those bolts because the are much thicker. > I'm hesitant to do that because the flywheel is SFI rated; I'm sure any > mods like that would invalidate that rating... [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] >>60 Hawk >>53 Starlight SignatureJP/Maryland Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/ 64 Daytona HT 64 R2 4 speed Challenger (Plain Wrapper) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black) 63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (White) 63 Avanti R1 62 Daytona HT 62 Lark 2 door 60 Hawk 53 Starlight Originally had lockwashers, yes. If you don't have enough thread to get the nuts started with washers in place, then the bolts aren't long enough to thread all the way through the nuts are they? > Originally had lockwashers, yes. If you don't have enough thread to get > the nuts started with washers in place, then the bolts aren't long > enough to thread all the way through the nuts are they? they will start with the lock washers but aren't long enough to tighten down properly with the end of the bolt sticking through the nut. I'm a little hesitant to use a lock washer on aluminum, but I was thinking that at least a flat washer ought to be used. The bolts are *just* long enough for the nuts to properly thread on with no washer, but no longer. nate Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
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