No spark at the plugs. Key on, 12 V to coil, points open and close but
no spark between them when they do. Problem is the condensor?
John
johnnywiffer@aol.com - 17 Aug 2006 16:01 GMT
Doesn't seem to be much coming out of the coil. In fact, I don't feel
ANYthing. And since I'm gonna get a Pertronix with a new coil anyway,
I think I'll just wait til then.
John
Lark Parker - 17 Aug 2006 16:22 GMT
>No spark at the plugs. Key on, 12 V to coil, points open and close but
>no spark between them when they do. Problem is the condensor?
>
>John
Don't throw parts at it just yet.
If you don't have a spark at the coil wire:
Check the output at the coil wire as you short across the OPEN distributor
points with the key on. A screwdriver tip is all that's necessary. The spark
should occur as you remove the screwdriver tip -- not at the time you short the
points.
If you get a spark that way, clean and reset the points.
while cranking, if you get a spark at the coil wire and none at the plug wire,
the problem could be the distributor rotor. On the GT's the resistor carbon
piece on the rotor has been known to fail (open). You can usually see it. Also
inspect/replace the cap if necessary at this point.
If you have no spark at the coil wire then disconnect the condenser and try
again. If this action restores spark replace the condenser. Do not go without
the condenser . The condenser is needed to prevent arcing at the points, an
undesirable thing.
Get back.

Signature
Lark Parker
Studeman - 17 Aug 2006 18:48 GMT
Try it with a hot wire from the battery directly to the + side of the
coil. If you see "spark" at the points when they break... your problem
is in the ignition circuit IE: switch, feed-wire from the solenoid,
ballast resisto, etc..., . Otherwise- it's "past that" IE the
points/condenser/coil etc...
Ray
>No spark at the plugs. Key on, 12 V to coil, points open and close but
>no spark between them when they do. Problem is the condensor?
>
>John
>
>
midlant@earthlink.net - 17 Aug 2006 23:13 GMT
> Try it with a hot wire from the battery directly to the + side of the
> coil. If you see "spark" at the points when they break... your problem
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> Ray
This is a handy way to run a car with a problem in the ignition system
upstream of the distributor. Helps if you're on a hill in a manual
tranny car, too,
For longer distances or longterm use, I'e consider putting a drop-down
resistor in the circuit.
I carry a wire with clips at either end in the tool box.
(Not for modern cars! <g>)
Karl
South Ga. 62 Cruiser - 17 Aug 2006 19:43 GMT
Always suspect the CONDENSER!
Dave Miller
GTtim - 18 Aug 2006 03:00 GMT
Points that have been sitting unused for a long time can be covered
with oxides that prevent conduction, clean them with fine sandpaper or
a small file.
Tim K.
> No spark at the plugs. Key on, 12 V to coil, points open and close but
> no spark between them when they do. Problem is the condensor?
>
> John