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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / September 2006

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Let the engine rebuild begin

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Tim Ulrich - 03 Sep 2006 05:35 GMT
As soon as I can figure out how to get the block attached to the engine
stand.  I'm thinking that the best place to bolt to the block is in the
holes where the bell housing bolts go.

Is it better to attach the stand to the back or the front of the engine?

How can I connect it to the block so I can take it all apart easily?

Thanks,
Tim
John Poulos - 03 Sep 2006 05:40 GMT
The four arms of the stand bolt to the bell housing flange. (2
horizontal, 2 at a angle.)

> As soon as I can figure out how to get the block attached to the engine
> stand.  I'm thinking that the best place to bolt to the block is in the
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
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JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
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64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 R1 GT Hawk
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Gordon Richmond - 03 Sep 2006 10:05 GMT
>   The four arms of the stand bolt to the bell housing flange. (2
>horizontal, 2 at a angle.)

Yep,

And if the layout of the arms on the engine stand permits it, you should mount the engine
so that the camshaft (assuming a V8) lines up pretty close to the axis upon which the head
of the engine stand rotates. That should have the mass of the engine pretty well on
center, which makes it easier to position where you want it.

Gord Richmond
Tim Ulrich - 04 Sep 2006 01:07 GMT
I tried bolting the engine stand to the back of the bell housing and when I
lowered the hoist, it looked like the engine stand was going to snap.  It is
rated at 1250 lbs. and it's a heavy duty stand.  So I took the bell housing
off and was able to get the bolts loose on the torque converter and remove
it.  That gave me access to the bolt holes on the back of the block where
the bell housing bolts to the block.  Got that on the engine stand and it
looks like it likes this configuration much better.  This also gets the
crankshaft closer to the center of the pivot point on the stand.

> >   The four arms of the stand bolt to the bell housing flange. (2
> >horizontal, 2 at a angle.)
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>
> Gord Richmond
Lee Aanderud - 04 Sep 2006 01:11 GMT
That's the only way I've seen an engine mounted to a stand.

Lee

>I tried bolting the engine stand to the back of the bell housing and when I
> lowered the hoist, it looked like the engine stand was going to snap.  It
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> =----
Jeffrey DeWitt - 04 Sep 2006 01:42 GMT
Never heard of anyone trying that before!

I bet it wasn't the weight, with that bell housing on there the engine
was sitting much further out than the stand was designed for and must
have been seriously overbalancing it.

Jeff DeWitt

> I tried bolting the engine stand to the back of the bell housing and when I
> lowered the hoist, it looked like the engine stand was going to snap.  It is
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John Poulos - 04 Sep 2006 01:55 GMT
NEVER bolt it on with the bell housing attached, the engine will stick
out too far and not be balanced.

> I tried bolting the engine stand to the back of the bell housing and when I
> lowered the hoist, it looked like the engine stand was going to snap.  It is
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
65 Daytona Sports Sedan
64 Daytona HT
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk (Black)
63 R1 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R1
63 Avanti R2
63 Daytona convert
62 Lark 2 door
60 Hawk
60 Lark Convert
51 Commander

Tim Ulrich - 04 Sep 2006 04:45 GMT
I guess I misunderstood.  Good thing I got it off there in a hurry.

Thanks for the clarification.
Tim

> NEVER bolt it on with the bell housing attached, the engine will stick
> out too far and not be balanced.
oldcarfart - 04 Sep 2006 03:09 GMT
> I tried bolting the engine stand to the back of the bell housing and when I
> lowered the hoist, it looked like the engine stand was going to snap.  It is
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

re-read your engine stand operator's manual and re-evaluate your mass
center before spinning engine on stand.
jerrystudebaker - 04 Sep 2006 15:54 GMT
You don't want the crankshaft close to the pivot point. You want the
CAMSHAFT close to the pivot point.
JF
>I tried bolting the engine stand to the back of the bell housing and when I
> lowered the hoist, it looked like the engine stand was going to snap.  It
[quoted text clipped - 28 lines]
> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
> =----
Nate Nagel - 03 Sep 2006 13:01 GMT
Mount the engine as low as possible relative to the pivot; you will
still need help to flip it over unless you have a lot of personal mass.

nate

>   The four arms of the stand bolt to the bell housing flange. (2
> horizontal, 2 at a angle.)
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>> ----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption
>> =----

Signature

replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel

Barry - 03 Sep 2006 14:13 GMT
Give me an email to save $$ on the engine parts you need.

--
Barry'd in Studes

58 Packard Hawk
40 President
39 Coupe Exp.
59 DeLuxe 1/2 tn.
56 Packard "400"
3 53-4 C/K project cars for sale

> Mount the engine as low as possible relative to the pivot; you will
> still need help to flip it over unless you have a lot of personal mass.
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
> replace "fly" with "com" to reply.
> http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel
showbizkid - 03 Sep 2006 16:03 GMT
>  personal mass.

I like that! ;)
 
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