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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / September 2006

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Studebaker Engines and Ethanol Blended Gas

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reichsrundfunk - 08 Sep 2006 16:32 GMT
Hi Guys, Boy, I'm just loaded with questions today! Here in New Jersey
gas stations are now required to sell gasoline that is blended with
anywhere between 10% - 15% ethanol. I've noticed that the 289 engine in
my 63 GT Hawk has been idling a bit rougher with this new gas
formulation, not horribly but noticably to me. Anyone else out there
noticing any performance or operational changes with ethanol mixed gas?
I'm using 93 octane high test high quality gas all the  time. I'm
wondering if the fuel volatility level may have changed or if it may be
advisable to tweak the timing. Right now it is precisely on the timing
mark when idling at 550 RPM.
-George-
N8N - 08 Sep 2006 16:47 GMT
> Hi Guys, Boy, I'm just loaded with questions today! Here in New Jersey
> gas stations are now required to sell gasoline that is blended with
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> mark when idling at 550 RPM.
> -George-

You will probably need to change the mixture to get it to run right.
this is probably true of any car with a carburetor.

nate
edjellis@aol.com - 08 Sep 2006 20:59 GMT
in the real world i am a petroleum distributor for a number of large
refineries. as part of the govt mandated change from mtbe to ethanol
additized gasolines our industry has been faced with a lot of
conversion problems related to the changeover. as an example all of our
underground storage tanks had to be thourougly cleaned which in some
cases meant we had to put men down in the tanks to make absolutely
certain the tank bottoms were both dry [water is typically found in the
bottoms of gasoline tanks as a result of natural condensation] and
clear of any soluble debris that oftentimes finds it way into storage
tanks. the primary problem being water as since gas will not absorb
water product will float on top of any water in the tanks. this is not
usually a problem since the submerged turbine pumps that lift the
product from the tanks bottoms are cut off at anywhere from 6 to 12
inches from the bottom of the tank.                               with
the introduction of ethanol that all changed because ethanol will
absorb water which of course in any quantity will raise havoc with any
internal combustion engine. as a result not only do the tanks have to
be cleaned of water but they must also be continually monitored so that
when water appears [as it will inevitablely] a stop sale on the product
will be instituted. additionally the  indusrty has developed a filter
which should be installed on the fuel dispensers [gas pumps] which will
shut off the flow as soon as any contaminated product is detected.
                                                 the other probably
more  significant issue is that all gasoline leaves a varnish type
residue which is found in virtually every system the product touchs.
ethanol is a solvent for varnish so the ethanol additized product is
actually stripping the accumulated varnish from the underground storage
tanks, piping, gas pumps, car fuel tanks, fuel lines, carbs, injectors,
manifolds etc.
                              with all the above as background what we
are probably experiencing is some water dilution of the ethanol along
with the varnish scrubbing effect which is resulting in rough idling
etc. my guess is that the more ethanol additized product you burn the
cleaner your fuel system will become and the quicker your performance
issues will resolve. my advice is to be patient and wait for the new
fuels to do their job  BEFORE  you start fooling around with fuel
mixtures etc. hope the above helps. ed ellis
reichsrundfunk - 09 Sep 2006 04:52 GMT
Works for me Ed. Right now I'm compensating as much as I can be
throwing in 1/2 can of 104+ octane booster and fuel system cleaner (as
well as lead substitute in the same quantity). I've really noticed a
huge difference in engine performance frm gas brand and station to
brand. Generally I stick to Exxon or Shell, but once in awhile I might
use Valero or something else in a pinch.

My trusted mechanic is also an Exxon retailer and not long ago he had
asked me to pass around the question of whether the new fuels were
having any effect on other classic cars I kn ow of.  He had recently
returned from a class on the new fuels at Exxon and they wer talking
quite a bit about the natural cleaning properties of ethanol and their
possible effects in various aspects of fuel and automotive
applications. They mentioned older carbureted cars and classics, etc
but said they had no raw data and to try to find out what the retailers
could find. I've been spreading the conversation around my Studebaker
friends as wll as my Packard friends and no one has really come back
with anything difinitive, either with OHV or flathead configurations.

Now, my 63 GT Hawk of course has an overhead valve design. however my
two Packards both have flathead eights, and neither of those have
exhibited any effects of the changeover whatsoever. The 1940 252 CID 8
has a 6.75 to 1 compression ratio and the 1950 288 CID eight has a 7.5
to 1 ratio. Otherwise, they are the same design and virtually the same
displacement.

By the way, the sign looks great on the side of the house (much to the
chagrin of my neighbors at night....) Gotta send pix! Hee hee hee hee
:-)
-George-

> in the real world i am a petroleum distributor for a number of large
> refineries. as part of the govt mandated change from mtbe to ethanol
[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> fuels to do their job  BEFORE  you start fooling around with fuel
> mixtures etc. hope the above helps. ed ellis
Bill Glass - 10 Sep 2006 01:53 GMT
I have noticed the HFH having mini heart attacks upon acceleration, and at
idle it farts. This started since our trip out to the
Shrock Brothers. Since I cannot get the fuel guage to work properly, we top
off every 120 to 140 miles. All our fuel stops were
in Pa. and NJ.

BG

> Hi Guys, Boy, I'm just loaded with questions today! Here in New Jersey
> gas stations are now required to sell gasoline that is blended with
oldcarfart - 10 Sep 2006 11:20 GMT
What I tell my customers is to add a fuel filter between fuel tank and
fuel pump and a second filter between fuel pump and carburetor.  Use a
see-thru type disposable filter and have both filters the same.  As the
filter darkens from fuel system being cleaned you replace the primary
fuel filter (tank to pump) with the secondary fuel filter (pump to
carb) and put new filter in secondary position (i.e. fleet maint.
procedures) this way you are only buying a new secondary filter.  Also
keep eye on fuel pump gaskets, carb gaskets and any fuel system rubber
components (fuel line to accel pumps) for deteriation.  I only use fuel
injection quality hoses anymore.  We need to adapt and I personally
feel better using the new fuel blends vs. the older blends with
"patchfuk" chemicals.
 
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