I had one of those brain fade moments last week... made some new
gaskets for the power steering reservoir with cork gasket paper, but
neglected to check the thickness of the cork I was using, as I'd done
this job before on another pump. Turns out in the generic Fel-Pro
gasket paper assortment there are two thicknesses of cork, and I'd used
up all the thick stuff already :( results were predictable. So I
bought some new gasket paper today and now it is amazingly dry as a
bone! Theoretically, if I can get the fan shroud and air deflector
cleaned and painted (another challenge, the fan shroud has a decent
amount of surface rust in some places, and is too big to fit in a
standard size garbage can, so I might be buying JP a new garbage can
for his electrolytic derusting setup) I could have a functional car
very shortly.
I'm reasonably happy with the general dryness of the car - neither
front nor rear main are leaking, nor do the little seals on the side of
the transmission seem to be leaking (I replaced the tailshaft and
pinion seals before putting it together because I just ASSumed they
were bad.
Now the bad news. The oil pan on this engine apparently came out of a
car that threw a rod. JP hammered it back into shape and brazed all
the holes up that he could see, but apparently he missed one at the
bottom of the sump. Not sure if it's rust or damage, because it was
already painted over by the time I got the engine. Anyone got any good
ideas on fixing a leaky oil pan that's already on an engine? Or should
I just bite the bullet and pull it and braze some more? I believe I've
mentioned here before that I had a dream of owning a Studebaker that I
could park on a clean floor without worry, and I'm almost there except
for this pan... How hard is it to pull the pan on a C-K in the car,
anyway? I am using the "R3" motor mounts (I think they are actually
the mount that hangs the sheetmetal on the front of a convertible Lark,
not sure how they got that moniker... AFAIK the R3's just used regular
mounts, yes?) so I assume that I'm looking at either jacking up the
engine, or dropping the bellcrank, yes?
Or, if anyone has a good R1/R2 pan that they'd be willing to sell for
cheap, drop me a line, but I'm not holding my breath. I'd call Phil
Harris but I think he requires a good pan in exchange for one of his,
and I don't have any extra pans.
thanks,
nate
mbstude - 09 Sep 2006 22:24 GMT
A leak free Studebaker? I've only seen a few of those, and they were
horse drawn.
Matthew
> I had one of those brain fade moments last week... made some new
> gaskets for the power steering reservoir with cork gasket paper, but
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> nate
Nate Nagel - 09 Sep 2006 23:25 GMT
The Studebaker does not leak perhaps, but the whole assembly certainly does!
nate
> A leak free Studebaker? I've only seen a few of those, and they were
> horse drawn.
[quoted text clipped - 44 lines]
>>
>>nate

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dwcars - 09 Sep 2006 22:34 GMT
Drain the pan, clean the area thoroughly, scuff the area with 80 or 100 grit
paper, spread a little JB Weld over the leak.
>I had one of those brain fade moments last week... made some new
> gaskets for the power steering reservoir with cork gasket paper, but
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> nate
midlant@earthlink.net - 09 Sep 2006 23:12 GMT
For piece of mind, you might want to add an idiot light system.
Karl
> Drain the pan, clean the area thoroughly, scuff the area with 80 or 100 grit
> paper, spread a little JB Weld over the leak.
[quoted text clipped - 42 lines]
> >
> > nate
Nate Nagel - 09 Sep 2006 23:26 GMT
Good idea; was going to add a gauge panel anyway, shouldn't be too hard
to add a panel light. I think I still have the tee fitting from when I
had a gauge in my '62.
nate
> For piece of mind, you might want to add an idiot light system.
> Karl
[quoted text clipped - 46 lines]
>>>
>>>nate

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Pat Drnec - 10 Sep 2006 01:02 GMT
I went to the local farm supply store and bought a 100 gal rubber stock
tank - holds some prey big stuff.
http://tinyurl.com/edhkr
http://tinyurl.com/es42b
http://www.rubbermaidcommercialproducts.com/stock-tanks.htm
http://www.rotonics.com/ag/opentop.htm
> I had one of those brain fade moments last week... made some new
> gaskets for the power steering reservoir with cork gasket paper, but
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> nate

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Remove the studebaker to email.
The only label that fits:
http://www.capitolhillblue.com/artman/publish/article_6966.shtml
"Patriotism means to stand by the country. It does not mean to stand by
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which he himself stands by the country. It is patriotic to support him
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oppose him to the exact extent that by inefficiency or otherwise he
fails in his duty to stand by the country."
- President Theodore Roosevelt, 1908
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1958 Silver Hawk
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Dwain G. - 10 Sep 2006 01:45 GMT
If the leak is located such that you can jack the car up in a way that oil
won't continue to seep through the hole, and if there is some working room
around the area, then I would close it with an old fashioned soldering
iron.
blacklarkviii - 10 Sep 2006 01:54 GMT
Use the JB weld epoxy. It really seems to work well.

Signature
Henry
>I had one of those brain fade moments last week... made some new
> gaskets for the power steering reservoir with cork gasket paper, but
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> nate
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