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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / November 2006Having trouble with the New Heater Control Valve!
I bought a new heater control valve for my 64 Hawk. It does not appear to be opening. Lever is adjusted correctly. Plunger seems to move slightly but NO HEAT. There is a tiny phillips screw on the firewall side behind a rubber plug I have screwed it in NO HEAT screwed it out NO HEAT left it in the Middle NO HEAT. Did I get a bad heater control valve? Anyone buy one that works? It's nice and shiny but NO HEAT. Allen Anderson  Signature1964 GT Hawk * R2 Engine Wanted Oakville, Ontario Alan, take the valve off and if you can blow through it easily, then it is not your problem. Then the problem lies in the plumbing. The hose should come directly from the top of the water manifold to the valve, then to the heater core and from there back to the lower water manifold, I think. I can't think of any reason why the heater valve shouldn't open, but if you work the part that the cable moves with the valve out of the car, it should be plainly visible if it is opening or not. Tim K. > I bought a new heater control valve for my 64 Hawk. It does not appear to be > opening. Lever is adjusted correctly. Plunger seems to move slightly but NO [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > Message posted via CarKB.com > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200611/1 Heater cores also have a nasty habit of becoming clogged... Especially with low ussage. JT > Alan, take the valve off and if you can blow through it easily, then it > is not your problem. [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Message posted via CarKB.com > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200611/1 Y'know, I noticed a decrease in heat when I replaced the heater core on my '55. The original was what I would call a "cellular" type core and the replacement is a tube and fin type. I als oreplaced the valve at the same time as both were leaking. Before it put off incredible amounts of heat, now, not so much. But I will probably not worry about it untl absolutely everything else on the car is fixed... nate > Heater cores also have a nasty habit of becoming clogged... Especially > with low ussage. [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > > Message posted via CarKB.com > > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200611/1 Nate did you replace the heater control valve (HCV) with the new valve that S- I offers? I purchased the $86 USD control valve from SI. The new HCV does not have the temp sensor that the old one has. FYI my heater core is original and in fantastic shape, so I know it is not that. Plumbing wise: The top of the waterpump manifold is going to the Y section of the (HCV). The straight lead from the HCV is going the the bottom of the heater core. From the top of the heater core to the bottom of the water pump manifold. I took the Hawk out last night Downtown Toronto anyway (it was a mild night 52 degrees) I was travelling north on Yonge Street in the Theater District. It was great to see the street sidewalks packed with people and having so many people pointing at the Hawk. She sure draws the attention! It would have be better for my date if we had some HEAT any other suggestions? >Y'know, I noticed a decrease in heat when I replaced the heater core on >my '55. The original was what I would call a "cellular" type core and [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> > > Message posted via CarKB.com >> > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200611/1 Signature1964 GT Hawk * R2 Engine Wanted Oakville, Ontario Nope, I bought a rebuilt one from Jon Myer. My valve is different from yours anyway as I have an under seat heater. nate > Nate did you replace the heater control valve (HCV) with the new valve that S- > I offers? I purchased the $86 USD control valve from SI. The new HCV does not [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >>>>>Message posted via CarKB.com >>>>>http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200611/1 Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel I need to get one for the '55 Prez sedan. JT > Nope, I bought a rebuilt one from Jon Myer. My valve is different from > yours anyway as I have an under seat heater. [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Alan, it sounds like the plumbing is in order and if the HCV is opening all the way, then the fault is either that the heater core is plugged somewhat or the thermostat in the engine is opening too soon. Maybe you have a 160 degree thermostat? I would recommend a 180 degree for our climate. That's what I run in mine and it blows lots of hot air! Tim K. On Nov 26, 8:39 pm, Grumpy AuContraire <Grumps...@GrumpyvilleNOT.com> wrote: > I need to get one for the '55 Prez sedan. > [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] > > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. > >http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Thanks Tim, I will check for the blow through, There is a good possibility that the car does have a 160 degree thermostat since the the car lived in Florida for many years. Thanks I will change it to the 180 degree thermostat for the early spring cruises. >Alan, it sounds like the plumbing is in order and if the HCV is opening >all the way, then the fault is either that the heater core is plugged [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> > replace "fly" with "com" to reply. >> >http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel Signature1964 GT Hawk * R2 Engine Wanted Oakville, Ontario I never used anything hotter than a 160° thermostat when I lived in New England and never suffered for the lack of heat. Even my T-cab with a three row radiator provides ample heat even though the temp indicator hardly budges. JT > Thanks Tim, > [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > Message posted via CarKB.com > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/studebaker/200611/1 |
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